2 Stroke Oil Specifications

The manuals were printed with specifications for the oils available at the time of product testing, which could have been many years ago. Today's modern synthetic oils are advanced to the point that they provide the same or even better protection with as small a ratio of 50:1.

If it's a modern synthetic oil designed for air-cooled 2-cycle engines (not a "W" rating or multiuse), it should be fine at 50:1. If you wish to remove all doubt, use oil with a label that has the name of a quality chainsaw maker such as Stihl, Husqvarna, Dolmar, Echo, et al.

If it says "air cooled," then that's the designation you want. Just be aware that some are better than others.

The full synthetic oils like Stihl Ultra actually will keep your engine clean. It's not just a sales gimmick. Lots of folks, including me, have torn down engines that use Ultra, and they are demonstrably cleaner (less depositing and gumming). They are good insurance for your engine.

The water cooled formulas (or multipurpose formulas) have a "W" in their designation like TCW or TC-W3. Even though these may state that they will also work in chainsaws, OPE manufacturers like Stihl do not recommend you use them in your air cooled chainsaw, trimmer, etc. Chainsaws place different demands on their engines than outboard engines and snowmobiles.

In the future, to avoid getting bogged down as you say in the oil specification alphabet soup, use the tip I gave earlier. If the 2-cycle air cooled engine oil bottle says Stihl, Husqvarna, or Echo on it, then you can rest assured that it more than meets the requirements of your chainsaw. I don't trust the strange name inexpensive 2-cycle oil that the local big box hardware or farm store sells.

I use the Stihl ultra in all my saws no matter what make. The reason as mentioned above is, that it is one of the few on the market that is 100% synthetic and not a blend such as Husqvarna's oil and other manufactures.

I usually get lit up for saying so, but here goes. . .


Use anything you want. Air cooled 2 stroke engines, like the ones found on saws and trimmers and so forth, are not picky. As long as there is sufficient oil in the gas you're fine. Oil related failures are basically unheard of. There's lots of way to ruin a saw but choosing the wrong premix oil ain't one. These saws are marketed and sold and used all over the world and run just fine on anything that is available.

Also, Stihl doesn't own or run a refinery. Someone at corporate HQ puts out a bid for premix oil, some refiner gets the bid, and some 3rd party puts it in bottles with a picture of a chainsaw on it. I'd be surprised if anyone at Stihl on the manufacturing side had anything at all to do with the tiny corner of the business that prints labels and packages some one else's premix oil in orange bottles.

Bigg_Redd said:

I usually get lit up for saying so, but here goes. . .


Use anything you want. Air cooled 2 stroke engines, like the ones found on saws and trimmers and so forth, are not picky. As long as there is sufficient oil in the gas you're fine. Oil related failures are basically unheard of. There's lots of way to ruin a saw but choosing the wrong premix oil ain't one. These saws are marketed and sold and used all over the world and run just fine on anything that is available.

Also, Stihl doesn't own or run a refinery. Someone at corporate HQ puts out a bid for premix oil, some refiner gets the bid, and some 3rd party puts it in bottles with a picture of a chainsaw on it. I'd be surprised if anyone at Stihl on the manufacturing side had anything at all to do with the tiny corner of the business that prints labels and packages some one else's premix oil in orange bottles.

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Well I will not lite you up but,
It really does not matter to me where Stihl gets there oil from as long as it is 100% synthetic.
Synthetic oils are proven, fact based to reduce friction over Dino oils. Less friction less heat.

Mag Craft said:

Synthetic oils are proven, fact based to reduce friction over Dino oils. Less friction less heat.

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While all of this is true, it's also true any premix oil from any reputable refiner will cause niether failure nor premature wear.

Bigg_Redd said:

While all of this is true, it's also true any premix oil from any reputable refiner will cause niether failure nor premature wear.

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Ok.

Engine failure is not the standard. Over time, less than optimal starting and running are the likely issues.

Of course Stihl doesn't make their oil. I wasn't stating that one MUST use Stihl, Husqvarna, or another brand to be safe. If the OP is unsure about the oil, going with Stihl or Husqvarna oil will remove any doubt.

I've worked on saws and other OPE that had been running the cheapest mystery oil that's "perfect for chainsaws" and I've even used it myself. The innards are not pretty.

If you have any Stihl 4-Mix engines (some pole saws, trimmers, blowers, Kombi units) and want to keep things simple by having only one can of fuel in the garage for them and your other chainsaws, trimmers, etc., then it is indeed advantageous to use Ultra. It has been demonstrated that even Stihl dino oil will cause issues with 4-Mix valves.

I mix all my fuel for 2 strokes at 35 - 1. Nothing gets gummed up and rings look good.
That really has to do with using a good oil.

Everything I own gets mixed gas (even 4 strokes) mixed at 40:1 because it's simple math. My gas cans are 5 gallon. 1 pint into 5 gallons is 40:1.

<<I tend to agree w/ Redd that the 2 strokes are not too picky. I just want to use a JASO FD spec oil

Stihl Ultra only meets JASO FB. Do not assume that if the oil doesn't specify what it meets that it is FD.

A corollary also would be not to assume that an oil doesn't meet a particular standard because it's not listed on the bottle. It may not have formally been submitted to the independent testing organization for a particular certification.

Other reasons might be that the oil is designed to meet a certain goal, like being biodegradable, at the expense of passing the most stringent emissions criteria. The emissions criteria for the next lower rating may be sufficient for the intended market.

Also note that FC and FD have no lubricity improvements over the FB rating.

Was easier in the 70's-80's when all oil was bad.Run syn in everything but my 2 stokes,harder to burn,found out it clogs up exhaust valves(moveable exhaust ports).A high quality standard oil does better,if there are no problems hiding.Do not forget if you run xtra oil in mix you are displacing gas,making the system leaner.And add ethanol and oil is harder to suspend,falls out faster.