2 Stroke Oil Specifications

I run syn in my vehicles,and run it 2 times as long a reg(standard procedure) so cost wise is the same.Have been doing this for years.Being a mechanic have seen oil go through many changes,the early syns DID leak past seals,parrifin plugged up lots of motors,etc.Experienced syn problems (2 stroke) in snowmobiles and waverunners and outboards.By the way,quick lubes still buy cheap oil and advertise/sell it as another better product!Your better smaller oil companys(like bg) have some very high quality diesel oil for big rigs,50,000 mile plus,just change filter and top off at perscribed intervals.Very expensive,non syn,but saves the truck companys a lot of money.

BrotherBart said:

When Mobil 1 came out in the 70's one of my truck leasing customers was ragging me about going to synthetic in the trucks. Unknown to us he filled the crankcase in their 250 Cummins with Mobil 1 and took off from Dallas to Houston. On the way back he broke an oil line and dumped six and a half gallons of four dollar a quart, in 1970's dollars, syn oil on the Interstate. Never heard a word about it again.

I have never owned a quart of syn oil in my life.

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Ran it once in one of my rigs. Engine tranny and rears all at the same time. EVERYTHING it was in started leaking all at the same time. NEVER again.
I've run the cheapest 2 cycle oil in my saws my entire logging career and have never had an engine failure with MILLIONS of board feet of logs/pulp and thousands of cord firewood under a dozen saws belts.
Synthetic is overthinxing things unless required.

If you burn a lot of premix in your saw the Stihl Ultra is worth it. Husqvarna, Jonsered, and Echo oil are good as well.

Personally, I'd be more worried about the ethanol in the gas vs. what 2 cycle oil to use. The ethanol will cause issue's long before the cheaper Ace oil will. I use regular gas with Stihl Ultra in my string trimmer, handheld and backpack blower because they are used often enough to burn up a gallon a month. My saw's on the other hand are used for a day or two then sit for a month or two. I spoil the saw's with the ethanol free canned fuel. I'm using the VP stuff from Bailey's but I used TruFuel and Motomix before that.

I use this:



I agree with Bart that syn matters much more in a 4 cycle than 2 but I'm sold on synthetic. In no way, shape, or form is conventional engine oil better than synthetic. Actually I can think of one, break in oil. Other than that its synthetic and science and lab tests back that up.

Gotta love an oil thread....

I used some of the higher end oils, mainly because of the added fuel stabilizers, since I cant get non-ethanol fuel easily. Then I got some StarTron, and have been using that. (I guess belt and suspenders). Late last year I got a deal on a gallon of Echo Powerblend, so that should last me for the next several years for the amount of mix I use.

Use fresh fuel, mix it somewhere between 40:1 and 50:1 with oil that isn't for an outboard, and go cut wood/trim grass/etc.

WOW.....been using 2 stroke all my life, didn't even know that there was all this "stuff".

I bought a bottle of generic oil last year from Lowe's in the aisle where they sell the weed eaters, chainsaws, etc. Guess now I have to go home and read the bottle to make sure I ain't destroying my stuff........

I learn a lot on hear, but sometimes ignorance is bliss

SHEESH

JustWood said:

....
I've run the cheapest 2 cycle oil in my saws my entire logging career and have never had an engine failure with MILLIONS of board feet of logs/pulp and thousands of cord firewood under a dozen saws belts........

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But how long do you keep a saw? If you only run a saw for a few years (before issues with compression and difficulty starting come up) then that doesn't help a guy like me.

What's everyone's favorite method of measuring out the oil when the bottle doesn't have a built-in measuring device? I've resorted to kitchen measuring spoons, but it feels a little silly.

Jon1270 said:

What's everyone's favorite method of measuring out the oil when the bottle doesn't have a built-in measuring device? I've resorted to kitchen measuring spoons, but it feels a little silly.

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Graduated shot glass

smokedragon said:

But how long do you keep a saw? If you only run a saw for a few years (before issues with compression and difficulty starting come up) then that doesn't help a guy like me.

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I have NEVER sold,traded or disposed of a saw for lack of compression EVER . I have a early 90's vintage 066 that I bought new that has over 10 Million board feet of logs/pulp and 2000+ cord of firewood on it that starts/runs like the day I bought it. An '01 046 with 1/3 the wood volume on it and runs like new.
I have sold off saws that I flat out didn't like. Usually within 30 days of purchase.

Jon1270 said:

What's everyone's favorite method of measuring out the oil when the bottle doesn't have a built-in measuring device? I've resorted to kitchen measuring spoons, but it feels a little silly.

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A ratio-rite measuring cup. Found at your local powersports dealer, or here: http://www.amazon.com/Ratio-Rite-28-1111-Ratio-Rite-Measuring/dp/B0045L9FJM

smokedragon said:

WOW.....been using 2 stroke all my life, didn't even know that there was all this "stuff".

I bought a bottle of generic oil last year from Lowe's in the aisle where they sell the weed eaters, chainsaws, etc. Guess now I have to go home and read the bottle to make sure I ain't destroying my stuff........

I learn a lot on hear, but sometimes ignorance is bliss

SHEESH

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Honestly, making sure you clean your air filter (and there arent any holes in it...) and use fresh fuel will have more of an impact on your saw's lifetime than the rating of your oil.

Jon1270 said:

What's everyone's favorite method of measuring out the oil when the bottle doesn't have a built-in measuring device? I've resorted to kitchen measuring spoons, but it feels a little silly.

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I try to buy by the pint and just dump a whole bottle in 5 gallons of gas. If I end up with quarts it's not too tough to eyeball half a quart.

Clarkbug said:

Honestly, making sure you clean your air filter (and there arent any holes in it...) and use fresh fuel will have more of an impact on your saw's lifetime than the rating of your oil.

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Agreed. I clean my filter every other tank. It's the easiest PM you can do.