Total newbie, completely fubar system.

Dear Lost in Lowell....ha, sounded like this should be some kind of intro to a Dear Abby column or something.

As luck would have it I happen to be in Grand Rapids and I happen to run an EKO40 of similar vintage to yours. And it also happens that I enjoy beer. It's entirely possible that I could be convinced to swing over to Lowell for some boiler fun.

But first....your boiler is surely big enough to heat your house. I heat quite a bit more than 2200 with mine (it is 40KW, not 40k btu). Actual output is just north of 100,000btu/hr. Your experience with H2Oasis is consistent with others I've talked to. Step one - stop calling them. And forget about going there to buy parts. They want your OWB business and that's about it.

When you say your boiler is outside, it is in a shed or garage or something, right?

Here is some helpful info you may want to peruse.
http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/PDF/ekomanual.pdf
http://www.newhorizoncorp.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/06/RK-2001UA-ENG12.pdf

Those two documents will go a long way toward helping you understand your system. Let me know your thoughts. I may be able to get out your way this weekend if you can survive that long. As stated above stop screwing around with those plastic barrels. That's a complete waste of your heat output.

Well if it is out in an uninsulated building,unless the system has antifreeze in it you have to keep it burning to keep it from freezing.
Thats probably why they had the pump running all the time.
All you can do at this point is run it like an outdoor woodboiler.

You should be able to get it to get you through this winter, by just plumbing in a Danfoss valve which would use your existing pump. So the only thing you would have to buy is a Danfoss and maybe a couple ball valves & fittings. And shutting off that hairbrained 'storage' setup - that is useless as far as I can see. Unless you can send just some flow through there and just use it as a big radiator (are those barrels in a place where you could use the heat they would give off?) - but for storage, ya it's fubar. Then, it would work about the same as an OWB would. But with the wonky controls, you will have to watch it very closely - any boiler system that relies on manual controlling is kind of asking for trouble.

But the success of that still comes back to your wood supply, you still might have issues with it being too wet. If you re-split it small & keep it next to your boiler, you might get it somewhat dried after a couple weeks. But that's a challenge if it's in an unheated uninsulated space. Mixing pallet wood in will help too, if you can find some.

Good news is it's a decent boiler - so things should get better next year with drier wood, and sorted out controls.

Doesn't help you much right at this moment - but for next year if you could get that place the boiler is in insulated, and also get all your winters wood in there with it before next winter starts, that will also help you hugely.

Then you can think about getting a proper storage setup in place.

Good luck with the present.

EDIT: You might also have issues with your underground piping which may be causing huge heat loss. Do you know what's there for piping?

Maple read my mind asking about the buried piping.... Can you see at all what the piping is as it leaves the boiler to get an idea of size?

And sorry to make it sound like you are boned, but everyone here is just trying to help eliminate potential issues so that you dont spend time/$$ on something that doesnt actually help move you in the right direction. If Stee can make it, that would be huge.

Having a thermal protection valve, or using the extra circulator/aquastat approach as was discussed will help you out a lot keeping the boiler hot. Heck, you might be able to even scavenge the pump from the "Storage" system to use near the boiler and save yourself the $ there.

Ok - accurately measuring the pipe temps where water leaves the boiler, and it enters the house, and seeing what the difference is should tell that story.

We'll get you there. That boiler is a great boiler. It's double the efficiency of the Central Boilers you see outside in peoples yards. This means you'll burn half the wood once we get her running right.

Shoot me a PM with your schedule tomorrow and Sunday. I might be able to swing out there tomorrow afternoon if you're up for it. Just in time for sub -20 degree wind chills. If you have a laser thermometer this would be a big help in diagnosing.

Got it, good to go. Let's see what we can accomplish with a few beers, some duct tape and a chainsaw.

Dont forget bailing wire and WD-40!

Can you get a Danfoss valve before then?

Keep us posted, this is cool.

I don't have a dog in this fight. I don't have a boiler, or any wood burning appliance at this time outside a fireplace, but I wanted to chime in. I'm into old tractors and music and chainsaws. I've been on many forums for each. Nowhere else have I seen offers to come over to someone's house and help with problems. Kinda restores my faith in humanity from time to time. This place is special and I hope the mods and old timers realize it. Hope I don't sidetrack any topic. Thanks.

NateJD said:

I don't have a dog in this fight. I don't have a boiler, or any wood burning appliance at this time outside a fireplace, but I wanted to chime in. I'm into old tractors and music and chainsaws. I've been on many forums for each. Nowhere else have I seen offers to come over to someone's house and help with problems. Kinda restores my faith in humanity from time to time. This place is special and I hope the mods and old timers realize it. Hope I don't sidetrack any topic. Thanks.

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++1

ColdInMichigan said:

See mine doesnt work like that. I could get 8 hours out of a full load but the wood jambs and if i dont go out every 2 hours to poke it it will stop heating. Might be good to meantion that the control unit on my boiler does nothing but display the temp.

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Indication that wood is too wet, bridging.

gg