Ashley AP5660L -- Original Burn Pot - Gasket Section Failed

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Let us know what they say clad,very interested they just don't send another burnpot as cheaply made as they are,I did notice on my second burn pot that it was a full weld on the front where it sets against the fire brick,but that didn't help it, it was just another cheap fix,if I remember there was another guy on here saying that he had a stainless burn pot with his 5660 but can't remember who.
 
Let us know what they say clad,very interested they just don't send another burnpot as cheaply made as they are,I did notice on my second burn pot that it was a full weld on the front where it sets against the fire brick,but that didn't help it, it was just another cheap fix,if I remember there was another guy on here saying that he had a stainless burn pot with his 5660 but can't remember who.
Doug doty. But I havent seen him on here In quite a bit
 
I believe that's who Lordmetal,don't really know if he thought it was stainless or it actually was I think he was on his second one too if I remember.
 
Gavin641774 said:
I believe that's who Lordmetal,don't really know if he thought it was stainless or it actually was I think he was on his second one too if I remember.
I remember him saying stainless. When this winter is over im taking this burn pot to the machine shop and having the guys make something tough as hell
 
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Just wonder if its the fact that the ash is getting behind the burn pot, between the pot and the block pattern back plate and smolder ash keeping it hot back there and or making like a insulator kind of effect that is keeping the heat to that area, if you know what I'm thinking. Wonder if you weld a 1/4" thick plate across the whole back of the burn pot that extends out further on each end of burn pot, but sticks up higher than back of burn pot, closer to pellet shoot, with a 45 degree bent on top that is towards the fire brick plate and comes up under the pellet shoot. Wonder if that will keep it cleaner back there, plus maybe stiffen up the whole pot so it won't warp.
 
Might work titanracer,just wonder why they need to come out and look at clad masters stove when they already know that they have a problem,and its with the quality of the burn pot.
 
Update.....

The tech came out two weeks ago, looked over the stove install..... said it was great, nothing wrong with the venting / install.

Looked the stove over, he asked if there was a baffle plate to cover the heat tubes, I said no, this stove does not have them. The plates / ash traps to the left and right of the heat tubes inside the firebox had warped, a sign of over fire.

Fired up the stove, checked the startup, so far so good. As soon as the stove came out of it's startup, he noticed the burn was not right and could see that the fire was like a forge. Exhaust motor spinning too fast ? Maybe.

I asked the tech if the over fire was a cause for the firebrick behind the pot to disintegrate like it has, he said yes, if the burn is too hot it will.

He checked the timing of all the feed rates 1 - 5 for the auger.

1 and 2 was spot on with the timings in the manual, but still had that forge like burn.

3 - 5 was off ........ the on timings was correct for the fuel feed (on), but the off timing was out (short) should have been 3 seconds off as per the manual, timing the tech got was 1.5 / 2 seconds off and not 3 seconds, based on that the stove is over feeding fuel. Still had that forge like burn.

The next day I get a call from US Stove, they said that a new stove was going to be sent to me, sweet, I asked if I could have the pedestal version, sure they said, not a problem.

Friday, last week, new stove arrives. Installed it the same day, so far so good, no problems at the moment.
Stove is burning different too, not getting that forge looking burn in the pot like I did with the other stove. Also, the air damper on the new stove seems to work better, I can see a more noticeable change in the flame height / brightness when adjustments are made, I did not have this effect with the other stove, it made little change when adjustments where made.
Did a 'glow' test, heat settings 3, 4 and 5, pot still glows red, so I will keep watch on this and see what happens.

Again, US Stove's customer service has been great, they have bent over backwards to service me and sort out my stove problem(s).

I hope that this new replacement stove holds up, and no other problems arise.
 

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Its cheap chinese metal is my conclusion. Cheap parts and labor the american way. Eventually these exchanger tubes are gonna crack then im buying a harman. Good luck with your new stove
 
Well are the rest of you going to time your pellet feed or just sit there and caterwaul ?

If your stove is over-firing all bets on how long things like burn pots, fake brick, fireboxes, and aluminum heat exchangers last are null and void.

This is not the first USSC unit this heating season that wasn't quite correct on the fuel feed side.
 
Another thought, is this issue also showing up in the model AP5660, this would be the basic same stove with the pedal stool base on it or is this just happening in the model AP5660L with the legs. Anybody out there with the standard AP5660 pedal stool base, having issues.

My AP5660 burn pot is doing fine,burning Doug Firs in it on setting 1 or 2,The gasket on bottom of pot has to be resealed again.
The most run time this stove has seen is 6 to 10 hours a day.Happy with the stove but not happy with burning a bag of pellets in 10 hours.Plan on selling it at the end of the season.
 
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