Chainsaw chains ugh

We'll need to know more about the bar or chain that's on it now, before we can say what alternatives there might be. There should be some identifying info stamped into the bar on one side, near the back end. There will probably be some identifying numbers on parts of the chain as well.

As to the chain being thrown, it has to be getting slack from somewhere. When you set it up, do you take all the slack out of it? The chain shouldn't be hanging off the bottom of the bar. Is the bar shifting during use, e.g. because the bar nuts aren't sufficiently tightened? Is the bar oil making it onto the chain? With insufficient lube the expansion and contraction due to temperature changes can do odd things to the chain tension.

+1 on Jon's answer. And is the clutch sprocket real worn with deep grooves? You could be getting chain tight on a higher ridge and then chain slips into deeper valley on a real worn sprocket = instant looseness. Pull the clutch cover, photograph sprocket. Photo bar #s and chain profile with numbers, too. Post them here.

Before you hurt yourself or anyone else, take it to a reputable power equipment dealer in your area who is authorized to service the saw. Have them analyze it and get you back out into the woods safely.

Wood Wules said:

I have been battling trees with a chainsaw for three years. I have a Sir John Red 2240. At 40 cc it's a little underpowered but it is a trooper. The first two years I kept the chain at a moderate tension no problems. This year I have already thrown three chains. What do you think gives.

The saw came with a low kickback chain. This time I want to get a pro chain. Can I use the same bar. What is a narrow kerf.

I appreciate all responses. The chains are making a dent in my beer money.

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The Jonsered (that's my guess at translating Sir John Red) 2240 shouldn't be throwing chains like that. I'm ASSuming (dangerous, I know!) that you've got the CS2240, not the CS2240S. The "S" model has a toolless chain tensioner (a tensioner "wheel" on the right side of the saw). The standard CS2240 uses a right side tensioning screw like many other chainsaws.

If you're replacing chains each time they are "thrown", that means you're starting with brand new chains each time. Ummm...why? Are the chains damaged, or could the chain be mounted back on the bar?

New chains stretch significantly during their initial use. If you don't pick up on this, and your chain is sagging off the bar, there's a greater chance of it being thrown. During the first use of a new chain, you'll need to check/adjust chain tension more than when the chain is broken in. This is covered in the owner's manual.

If your saw's oil pump isn't putting oil on the chain/bar during use, your chain will overheat & stretch more than usual (leaving you prone to the chain being thrown). With the chain installed and the saw running, CAREFULLY point the nose of the bar about an inch from a dry surface. See if you can see any oil being thrown from the chain onto the dry surface. If not, you've got problems (bad oil pump, plugged oil line pickup filter, plugged oiling holes in the bar,...).

When you mount the chain onto the bar, I hope that you loosen the bar nuts slightly before adjusting chain tension. Once the chain is tight, then grunt down the bar nuts.

If your chain is dull (possibly from a split-second contact with the dirt as you zip through a log), it will heat up more than a sharp chain, loosening it, making it prone to being thrown.

The standard CS2240 runs a 0.325" pitch, 0.050 or 0.058" gauge chain. If your current setup uses a narrow kerf, it's probably 0.050". There should be non-safety chains available to fit, keeping the current bar. Bailey's has a nice saw chain selector program on its home page.

Since your saw keeps throwing chains, I hope you're using it with chaps & chainsaw gloves. Even if it wasn't throwing chains, those are cheap insurance.

Good luck!

My favorite kind of chain is a skip link. They're kinda hard to get around here, but they're worth it.
They have only half as many cutters, which cuts your sharpening time way down. But they also last a long time.

They cut more aggressively, they are more dangerous. If you're saw has enough power, they are the only way to go.

Are you by chance running Oregon brand chains? They are made of a bit milder steel, which makes them go slack a little faster, but they sharpen easier.

I use a semi-chisel, not narrow (regular) kerf chain.

How is the bar?
Is there a lot of wobble when the chain is tight? Meaning has the grove were the chain rides opened up giving too much side to side wobble?
You might have to change the bar.
Check out Stihl chains. I run one on my Husky 350 (.325 pitch .050 gauge with 72 drive links)

There are different degrees of 'low kickback' chain. I avoid the designs that have large safety bumpers, but Stihl and Oregon both make low vibration / reduced kickback chains with smaller bumpers that work very well in most situations.

On my smaller saws I like 3/8 low-profile (AKA "Picco") chain. I have a loop of 63PS (yellow-label full chisel) and one of 63PS3(green-label full chisel), both of which cut well. Last year I found a roll of Oregon 91VX (non-safety 3/8LP semi-chisel) on Craigslist, and have been impressed with it too.

In the .325/.050 narrow-kerf department, I like Oregon 95VP / Husqvarna H30.

Wood Wules said:

Thank you all for your replies. I think what happened is what Jon and Cruff suggested. I got so concerned about the chain being too slack I kept adjusting it. I would loosen the nut then adjust the chain and repeat . The last time I did this I only hand tightened the nut causing the derailment.

When the chain is thrown it hits the safety catch which files off the little prong at the bottom of the chain making it unusable.

What I would like to know is what kind of chain you guys use. Is it the narrow kerf chain and is it full chisel or is it the low kickback chain.

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You can't go wrong with a Husqvarna low kick-back chain. Yes they are a bit more tricky to set the depth raker on but it's worth it unless you are comfortable with a professional chain. I also use Carlton Chains which stay razor sharp but do dramatically increase the risk of kickback. They literally pull ribbons of wood instead of chips.

CentralVAWoodHeat said:

I also use Carlton Chains which stay razor sharp but do dramatically increase the risk of kickback.

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Carlton makes low-kickback chains too.

Get the Stihl 2in1 sharpener!


Best tool to sharpen your chains ... as .. it sharpens teeth and rakers @ the same time .. like new chains again!

Wood Wules said:

From what I'm reading it sounds like you guys use full chisel and semi chisel chains with good results. I guess I could mount one on my 16 inch, .325,.050, 10t bar. The Charlton chain central VA mentioned sounds good but I'm not sure where you buy them. Thanks again.

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Here is a link to Stihls in RI.
http://www.stihlusa.com/locator/Search?_ga=1.120379464.1798112541.1448902683
That's were I get my chains from .. Stihl
Bring saw when you go!

Wood Wules said:

The Charlton chain central VA mentioned sounds good but I'm not sure where you buy them.

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Carlton is just a brand; he didn't specify which Carlton chain he uses.

Regarding kerf size:

1. Check the markings on your bar to see if it's a narrow kerf (NK) bar.
2. You may use standard kerf chain or NK chain on a NK bar.
3. DO NOT use NK chain on a standard kerf bar.

Wood Wules said:

From what I'm reading it sounds like you guys use full chisel and semi chisel chains with good results. I guess I could mount one on my 16 inch, .325,.050, 10t bar. The Charlton chain central VA mentioned sounds good but I'm not sure where you buy them. Thanks again.

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I get Carleton chains from my local saw dealer and service center. I'm sure yours could advise you.

Jon1270 said:

Carlton is just a brand; he didn't specify which Carlton chain he uses.

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They have an entire line of chains. I would consult your local dealer on getting the right ones for the task at hand.

Wood Wules said:

Thanks CentralVA but my local dealer won't sell me anything but low kickback. He says full chisel is for pros only. I guess he's old school.

I sure like what you said about ribbons of wood instead of chips.

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He may be old, but I don't think he's old school. He's a nanny/control freak who doesn't give customers what they want. Some dealers won't sell "pro" chain because they actually don't want to order it and stock it in the smaller pitches for anyone.

What tree pointer said! To take it a step further, your dealer may be afraid of liability if your saw kicks back on you after he sold you pro chain.

You can buy whatever chain you want online bulk. Then you just need a bench vise and a chain pin popper tool (the real name for that dang tool is eluding me at the moment). Lay your chain out and count the drivers you want, pop the chain pin, pin it back, then drink a beer cause you just saved ten bucks.

I like the stihl 3/8 chisle skip chain for big wood it helps IMHO, I have been using a full comp (non skip tooth) chain lately and it cuts fast in small ish stuff like 16" or less dia. When I burry the 28" bar with the full comp chain it seems to rob to much power and my old 630 super just can't keep the chain speed up. It seems like having half the cutters takes less of a toll on the saw in big 24"+ wood. I will say that touching up a 28" bar with full comp chain takes a while, thats alot of cutters to file. Also if you are used to the stock type Very low kickback chain be careful when you get a pro chain the saw will be more grabby and you have to be even more careful with the tip of the bar.

HF sharpeners really do work,b ut aren't quite professional. They need a tweak and have to be held just right in order to cut a good angle. I notice there's slop in the hinge so if you don't hold the handle correctly they tend to not cut a proper angle. otherwise, they do work, especially on chains nearing the end of their life, very much worth the $25

a quick question about chain sharpening, i understand that after a few sharpeningsi t is necessary to file down the raker or chisel. is this an exact science that requires a depth guage, or can you simply run it across the grinding wheel to take it down a bit?