Bixby 115 issues, please help

My aunt has had this bixby 115 since 06', the exhaust blower took a crap and she decided she didn't want it anymore. I have since acquired the stove, replaced the exhaust blower and having troubles getting it to work properly. (PS-newbie to pellet stoves)

When i hit "ON", the unit cycles the dump slide and empties the pot. then it starts up automatically and runs like a ***** ape! But then, it starts to slow down.... i have started the fuel and trim knobs at "0" and worked until i have a nice ( but not near as nice as when it starts up) flame going. When i first started it up, i had it set that it was running on pellets, but after about 8 hours of run, the burn pot kept filling up. So i would shut it off, turn it back on and wallah my problem is solved...... for another 8 hrs..... so i thought maybe, while on the pellet selection it doesn't empty the pot at all... so i switched it over to corn, bc it has to with corn.... and no such luck, now it does it even more often. I made sure its level, it empties with no issues when i shut off and restart... I have tore it down 3 times completely and made sure to clean all 109 holes in the pot as well as the side ones.. all the seals are in place and seem to be good? Lots of black soot on window after hours of operation and have taken a SS brush to the heat exchange tubes...

I am within days of going and buying a coal stove i am so frustrated with it... any help? Could it be the circuit board going bad and not telling it to dump? if so, best place to buy? the one i found was $600 and that will condemn this thing. ( before i spend that kind of money on a 10 yr old stove, it will be new;-))

This is supposed to be a supplemental heat to my Geo-thermal.... brand new $17k geo unit in '12, our electric rates are $0.15 / KWH so the strip heat back up is ridiculous to run... is a coal stove the way to go? Looking at a Keystoker Koker, or an Alaska 140 auger so it can run pellets or coal... thoughts???? I live in NW Ohio..

ohbix said:

Is the exhaust path clean? You might do the leaf blower trick and/or manually clean the exhaust. When you remove the covers over the heat exchange tubes, at the bottom you should see a space which extends under the tubes, then goes up to the exhaust tube on the right side. You can use a straightened coat hanger (bend one end an inch or two) to shove in there and pull out soot. Also open the exhaust cleanout cover (rig sawht side of stove when facing the door) and clean out there. Is the thermocouple wire secure on the board? That's the wire w/ the flag on it. Does the exhaust fan sound like it's slowing down after the first hour? In that case the fan or board might be the fault (yes I realize it's a new fan). Last, Blume (Newville PA) can get boards repaired. Mine cost $50; well worth it.

Click to expand...

Thanks ohbix!

The exhaust, is temporary as of now, 2' of brand new 3" dw ss pipe that goes into my existing 8" chimney. According to the manual I'm ok as far as the restrictions on the chimney length( so I'm assuming from the back of the unit out, and inside the blower box is good)... Last time I tore apart, I did not run anything through the tubes to the exhaust, I went in 4"+/- all the way across. My aunt told me, after her first season of use, she was never able to run it at 7 or 8, but could run anything up to 6. Thermo should be working as it does run continuously, just doesn't dump. My biggest issue is the non- dumping. After that, I'll fight the rest. Its sounding to me that my only option would be to call the company you listed above for support? Thanks for your help!

bob bare said:

Never had the pleasure of working on one.I see it is not vented properly,as per manual,but Bio would know if this is ok.Also have heard they do not do well when vented vertically.Looks like the soonest it would dump is at 8 hours,and that is running on level 8.Sounds like you need more combustion air,less pellets or has an internal airflow problem.Will leave link info for you in case you do not have it. https://www.bixbystoveparts.com/stove_documents.php?view=6

Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply!

I have been to that site, called and left a message a month ago for the blower. Never heard back so I ordered one from D&D farm supply. How do you find the times it is supposed to dump? And what is the difference between the wood selection and corn? I have worked on ag furnaces and relay logic controls for years, and never had issues finding info on things like I am on this. I would love a break-down of how each step works on this.. ie a flowpath... Haven't had any luck looking....

Bioburner said:

PM rona as he uses and repairs Bixby stoves. I know that Bixby's are not friendly to bigger verticals if not using their pipe which Selkirk makes a copy of. I never had much luck using pellets but is fantastic with corn. Its my principle burner with corn being cheap.

Click to expand...

Yeah, I didn't think it would be so touchy with the exhaust. Thought as long as hot air is going out of the house, and it still can bring cooler air in from the room it would be just fine... Evidently not... I will try to figure out how to pm someone on here.

bob bare said:

Go to that site,open stove manual,about 7 pages down gives a dump chart.

Click to expand...

That made me lol.... I assumed that's when I would have to empty the ash bin.... Oh my... I have the original manual that came with stove... This makes me shake my head and feel dumb... So I guess for now, I'll let it go for awhile and play with teim knobs, and then this weekend do a complete tear down and clean again. Can I use genaric rope seal to replace them? Or do they have to be bixby brand?