Spring End Came Off of Napoleon Damper Handle

Does the springless handle have a notch, groove, or hole in it? I looked at some photos of replacement handles online, and the arm end looks like it's just tightly coiled wire. If the handle is smooth down to the end, you could:

- Take the fallen spring and shim it with some tinfoil inside
-Cut a piece of sheet metal (got a beer can?) to a washer with an outside diameter a little smaller than the spring and an inside diameter a little smaller than the handle. Drill/file a recess on the inside side of the washer for the spring wire to pass through, and thread the washer onto the spring, then work the spring onto the handle.
- Get a couple pairs of pliers and bend the last couple coils a little tighter.
- Buy a new spring

If it was me, I'd probably go get my dremel and a carbide cut-off blade (please note that everything *I* would do would void the warranty on something; this is kind of a constant with me)- slide the handle on to where I wanted it, scratch a mark on the handle in the middle of the base of the spring, then go get a retaining ring a little smaller than the handle, and notch the handle for the retaining ring. Push the retaining ring in through the springy.

Kingfisher...

I didn't have my Napoleon stove for even a month or two when the damper spring came off. For a short time I was able to re-screw it onto the lever but at some point I was never able to tighten the spring down so it would hole fast. My solution was to replace it with a small Vice Grip (cheap generic) purchased for a couple of bucks at Lowes.

John

Come to think of it, JB Weld is rated to 600°F, and regular old solder melts at 350°-400°. RTV silicone and some FIPG gaskets (which I suspect of being repackaged RTV silicone at 5x the price) go up to 600+ too.

Next time you're running the stove flat out, hit the handle with an IR thermometer and see how hot it gets.