Have a question regarding "add-on" furnace

it will work, but keep in mind you will also need a return air, there are several ways you can do that. ducting into the existing return is one way, or you can cut holes in the floor and use the basement as a return. Its important to have as many sq in. of return as supply. All ad ons are different, I had a charmaster, good quality unit installed in my garage, (no basement) I gave up on it after 5 years. It kept the house warm, but they are all very inefficient and consume gobs of wood compare to an EPA rated stove or insert. I have sold the furnace and gone to a free standing stove in my living room, in one week I have burnt 1/4 of the wood i did with the furnace and Im warmer, well the old lady says shes warmer. do a alot of research and do check out whats available. there is good stuff and chitty stuff. try to talk to as many people out there who operate forced air wood furnaces.

I forgot to say, the 3 wall duravent is in myopinion Junk and dangerous and I wouldnt use it. and any good reputable stove shop ot installer I doubt would sell it too you or install it

Better check your codes and do some more research I might be wrong but from what I have read on here you don't want to combine the 2 systems

WOOD FURNACE ADD ON'S ARE NOT SECONDARY BURN & so won't give you the same heat for 1/3 the wood. They eat wood by the wheelbarrow full & thensome.

Look at the www.englander 50/30ncl secondary burn stove instead. It heats 2,000 sq ft to 2,200 sq ft for 1/3 the wood & no smoke up the chimney for neighbors to complain about.

You loose the air duct capacity, but you can heat the whole basement & use electric fan forced heat registers through the floor with gravity cold air return registers, instead of ducting.

on the other hand, you could duct hot basement air into your existing duct work ,as long as you have an equal amount of cold air return ducting or gravity register , to the basement.

At any rate, expect to cut your heating bill by at least 1000.oo yr , probably more like 2000.oo yr.

I cut my heating bill by $3000.oo/yr.

Don't poo,poo the wood savings that the 50/30ncp will give you, either. That will add up to 1000.oo a yr if you in a cold climate like new england.

The only bad thing I can say about a free standing secondary burn wood stove is that it is a space heater, not designed to heat your whole house, just most of your house unelse you install the registers,in which case it will heat your whole house.

www.overstockstoves.com
model 50-tnc-30 same stove as englander50-30ncp, only on sale for 799.oo with shipping included.

Hanko said:

I forgot to say, the 3 wall duravent is in myopinion Junk and dangerous and I wouldnt use it. and any good reputable stove shop ot installer I doubt would sell it too you or install it

Click to expand...

B.S. Duravent is fine, if it was dangerous or inferior it wouldn't be on the market for liability issues. Gotta be smarter than the pipe when operating the stove. (ie don't overfire it)