Newbie looking to buy my first wood stove. Have a few (many) questions

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agbegin

New Member
Oct 31, 2023
10
RI
Hi all, am new here. Have been googling for weeks to no avail on some of my questions, and after pouring over a bunch of threads, feel like I could fare much better engaging with the community here.

I have a 1960s house, 2200 sq ft, in New England. I just sold off the pellet stove insert that was here when we moved in. It was nice, but the property is 9 acres and I prefer to be burning my own wood than buying pellets.

We want to have a standalone wood stove, either new or used (been looking at hearthstone green mountain, vermont castings)

Here's the existing situation:
  • The stove will go in a brick fireplace (see photo and measurements attached as photos)
    • Width at the front of the firebox is 39.5, width at the backwall is 32"
    • Firebox height is 31"
    • Depth from back of firebox to front of hearth is 42"
  • There is currently a 4" flexible pipe in the chimney that was used for pellet stove
  • I believe the flexible pipe travels up through a clay flue liner (see photo 3)
Here are some of my main questions:
  • How do I calculate the right stove size (dimensions, not BTUs) based on my available space? It's hard to tell in the diagrams/manuals whether the necessary space around the stove applies when it's in a fireplace (vs in a room on a platform)
  • As this will not be our primary heating source *but* we would like it to keep the house livable during power out, I have been thinking a medium sized stove would be great, if we can fit it... Something that heats ~1,600-2,000 square foot? The fireplace is in two connected rooms taking up about 700 sq ft, but we have a relatively open first floor and would be great to burn wood to make less work for the oil burner.
  • EPA vs. Non-EPA... and the age of the stove. I have done a lot of reading about how the quality of some manufacturers have varied over the years. I am tempted to try to get a good shape 1980's V.C. or something... but if there are compelling reasons to go new (tax credit aside), I could be swayed. (For context, I drive a 2001 Ford F150 truck which I bought in 2022... I tend to go for simpler old things over new tech when I can :) )
  • I assume the flexible exhaust pipe is worthless and needs to go. Do I need new 6" steel pipe to go all the way up through the liner out the top of the chimney? Or do I have other options?
  • Is installation something that I must hire out for? What cost might I be looking at to do so (say I purchased all parts used and just needed them to install) Might I need a permit (Rhode Island)? I DIY most renovation stuff but am fine to hire if DIY wood stove install is not smart or legal haha.

I'll stop there. Am excited to get familiar with all things wood stove, and hopefully to pass along my learnings to the next guy once I'm done.

Thank you 🙏
Andrew Screenshot 2023-10-31 at 2.37.49 PM.png IMG_7620.JPG IMG_7658.JPG
 
Welcome.
Yes, the pellet vent liner must be replaced with a 6" stainless liner, most likely insulated.
An open floorpan with large openings between adjacent areas then it may heat the whole floor.
The fireplace is large and should accommodate a 3 cu ft insert. In New England, it doesn't hurt to oversize a bit. During milder weather just give the stove less fuel. I would go new, regardless of whether the stove qualifies for the tax credit. You will get a cleaner burn, a great fire view, and burn less wood.

Whether this is a DIY or not will depend on one's ability to follow directions, ask questions, and mechanical skill level. The roof height and pitch may also be a factor.

What is the ID of the chimney flue tiles? How tall is it?
 
Thank you @begreen !

The ID of the flue tiles appear to be about 7" x 9"... hard to measure precisely

The chimney is probably 15ish feet tall? Above the family room is a crawlspace with a pitched roof, and chimney extends a couple feet beyond the pitch.
 
Thank you @begreen !

The ID of the flue tiles appear to be about 7" x 9"... hard to measure precisely

The chimney is probably 15ish feet tall? Above the family room is a crawlspace with a pitched roof, and chimney extends a couple feet beyond the pitch.
Maybe an 8" x 12" OD flue tile then? That's a common size. If so, it will need an oval liner to fit or the tiles would need to be broken out. It sounds like this is a single-story chimney which is easier and safer to deal with. Is the home all one story or is this in an addition to a 2 story house?
 
Maybe an 8" x 12" OD flue tile then? That's a common size. If so, it will need an oval liner to fit or the tiles would need to be broken out. It sounds like this is a single-story chimney which is easier and safer to deal with. Is the home all one story or is this in an addition to a 2 story house?
Thanks! It's an addition/side room to a 2 story house.
 
Can't help with any of your questions, but I will say that fireplace is screaming for an old barn beam mantle....looks great
 
Can't help with any of your questions, but I will say that fireplace is screaming for an old barn beam mantle....looks great
Haha, thanks, and I am with you. I've already cut down an old standing dead oak that I'm planning to try to hand hew into a mantle :D
 
Thanks! It's an addition/side room to a 2 story house.
That was my concern. These installs can have problem drafts due to a shorter chimney and wind-driven positive pressure over the chimney cap. Definitely get an easy breathing insert. Regency, Pacific Energy, and Osburn (or Drolet) make inserts that work on shorter flue systems.
chimney location.png
chimney location 1 story + 2 story.png

 
Fellow RI burner here. There were a few nice Jotul on marketplace a couple weeks ago. Seem to be sold now. Stoves do pop up that seem to be in good shape. I bought a used insert and been using it 5 years. You already have your wood source figured out. If you are northern RI and have to much wood let me know 😄 I installed the stove and liner myself. Not that hard if you are handy. Use an insulated liner. Enjoy the wood heat!
 
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That was my concern. These installs can have problem drafts due to a shorter chimney and wind-driven positive pressure over the chimney cap. Definitely get an easy breathing insert. Regency, Pacific Energy, and Osburn (or Drolet) make inserts that work on shorter flue systems.
View attachment 317825
View attachment 317826

This is great info to have, very happy I joined this forum and appreciative of your advice :).

I've attached a pic. The house faces East. Generally speaking we have exactly what you showed in the pic :D

IMG_7674.JPG
 
Fellow RI burner here. There were a few nice Jotul on marketplace a couple weeks ago. Seem to be sold now. Stoves do pop up that seem to be in good shape. I bought a used insert and been using it 5 years. You already have your wood source figured out. If you are northern RI and have to much wood let me know 😄 I installed the stove and liner myself. Not that hard if you are handy. Use an insulated liner. Enjoy the wood heat!
Great to know! Thanks for the input and I'll let you know once I start logging :D
 
This is great info to have, very happy I joined this forum and appreciative of your advice :).

I've attached a pic. The house faces East. Generally speaking we have exactly what you showed in the pic :D

View attachment 317849
It's possible that the chimney may need a 2-3' extension to perform better if a weak draft is an issue. Have you ever burned wood in the fireplace? If so, how did it work?
 
It's possible that the chimney may need a 2-3' extension to perform better if a weak draft is an issue. Have you ever burned wood in the fireplace? If so, how did it work?
Nope, just the pellet stove which was in when I moved in, which seemed to work fine, we used it regularly.
 
The pellet stove has a forced draft so it is not susceptible to this issue.
 
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Hi,
Another RI wood burner here, stop into Preston Trading Post and see what they have for stoves, they have rebuilt units from time to time. They may be able to suggest an installer. At this point, your wood supply will be an issue, do you have a source of seasoned wood; is the pellet stove still functional to get through another season? If yes, consider sticking with it, order 3-4 cord and start drying it out, then pull the trigger on a stove in April or May. No opinion on inserts, I always prefer free standing stoves.
Good luck,
Jim
 
Hi,
Another RI wood burner here, stop into Preston Trading Post and see what they have for stoves, they have rebuilt units from time to time. They may be able to suggest an installer. At this point, your wood supply will be an issue, do you have a source of seasoned wood; is the pellet stove still functional to get through another season? If yes, consider sticking with it, order 3-4 cord and start drying it out, then pull the trigger on a stove in April or May. No opinion on inserts, I always prefer free standing stoves.
Good luck,
Jim
Thanks Jim, sounds great I will check out Preston Trading Post.

As for wood supply, I have a near endless supply of standing dead trees, many of which can safely be dropped. I get the sense that old standing dead wood could be close to dry enough for wood stove? (I will get a moisture meter and not guess)

We do have oil heat, so depending on supply, we might just make light use of the fireplace this year and prep wood for next year. Already sold the pellet stove (had removed it for a renovation and wanted it gone).

Cheers,
Andrew
 
Do you have any future plans to add a heatpump?