Tarm Shut Down for Season

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
  • Super Cedar firestarters 30% discount Use code Hearth2024 Click here
Status
Not open for further replies.

jebatty

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jan 1, 2008
5,796
Northern MN
She finished her first year in high style. Yesterday brushed the heat exchanger tubes, vacuumed the smoke box, scraped as best I could the firebox, cleaned out all the ash from the firebox and gasification chamber, vacuumed everything, sealed up the smoke outlet, sealed the air inlet, cleaned the chimney, and put her to bed until Fall. The refractory looks to be in real great shape. Burned pine the whole season with just this one chimney cleaning, very little buildup - she does her job well.

Any thoughts from others on the creosote in the firebox that doesn't scrape off? It would be ideal to get to bare metal, but I don't think scraping can do that. A layer of creosote remains well bonded to the steel. My guess is that sealing the boiler from moisture will greatly limit an ongoing creosote caused corrosion.
 
Jim are you draining your boiler? If So anything else have to be done while it sits for the summer. Mine lives in a slighty damp basement.
 
The instruction manual says to do what I think I did. A key is to keep moisture out over the summer, as moisture + creosote = acid = corrosion. The manual also says that if moisture/condensation is a problem, a light bulb in the boiler to generate some evaporating heat should be used. It would be wise to check once in a while to see if any condensation is evident.

I'm not draining the boiler. It is a closed system and any oxygen in the water should have been used up during the heat season a long time ago. If you haven't done so, check the boiler water pH. Tarm says the ideal is 8.2. Water on the base side (I think 7.5 to 9 or even a bit higher probably is OK) is essential to prevent corrosion. You certainly do not want pH below 7 = acid = corrosion. I opened the drain to take a couple of ounces to check pH. It was clear in color. My pH is between 8 and 9.
 
well for now I'm still using mine for DHW. Fire it up every 2 days just to top off the tank temp. Plus it's been a little chilly at night 40*. Maybe I'll just keep it going all summer it's in a cool damp cellar. I just don't want to heat up the house to much it would be counter productive. I do have to check the PH in the storage tank and boiler. How would you increase the PH in the boiler?
 
Search "boiler chemical" on this forum and on Google -- if you find out anything new, post your findings for all of us. Thanks.
 
I am a boilerman and you must never drain your boiler and leave it empty. Keep your boiler filled and at least circulate your chemicals once a week for a couple of hours.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.