Plate HX maintenance/ planning ahead?

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pybyr

Minister of Fire
Jun 3, 2008
2,300
Adamant, VT 05640
I've been happy as a clam with my Econoburn 150 even though I do not have storage running yet-- but I do intend to move forward on my storage in the near future.

I'll have 1200-1300 gallons of unpressurized storage, with a 5x12 70 plate heat exchanger, and with Caleffi DirtCals on both sides of the HX to capture the crud.

What I'm wondering- and invite input on-- is whether I'd be well-advised in the long run to install the plate HX with unions, or with valves and tees, to allow for eventual flushing if it gradually accumulates mineral build up.

I don't want to make this more complex than needed if I can prudently skip this set of concerns - but also don't want to kick myself later for failing to plan ahead, and having things end up more frustrating than needed if/ when maintenance may be needed for the plate HX.

Thoughts from the hydronically-savvy?

Thanks, as always

Trevor
 
Unless it is seeing fresh, hard, water being added, like DHW applications, you really shouldn't have any plugging problems.

This is one way, to use some Webstone Ball/ purge valves. Turn the main valves off, hook a coil cleaner solution to a small pump and circulate for cleaning.

I believe Webstone has this same valve with unions built in for instantanous water heater cleaning and service.

Unions and ball valves are another method. I have a customer with a plate HX on his water heater for a small radiant loop, and early Danfoss ZCP set up. He removes the HX yearly and takes it to a radiator repair shop and they "cook" it out for him.

hr
 

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Thanks guys- Hot Rod, as long as I use softened water in my unpressurized tank, which I hope will not see much evaporation, you think I'll not have any significant efficiency-robbing build-up in the HX over the years?

Those Webstones look like a great solution, but it looks as if I'd be into over $100 for a set of 4; I don't want to cheap out of this is something I am best off having in the long haul, but at this point I need to hemmorage no more $$$ than reasonably needed to bring the tank part of the project on-line.

Thanks
 
I used unions on my connections; just have to make sure the system is drained down far enough to allow removal of the hx. I would recommend that after the first season you remove the hx and just flush it with pressurized water from a hose, both directions, and see if any particles flush out. If it is clean, then you likely don't have to worry about plugging. Internal corrosion is another issue, and from what I've read hydrochloric acid is used to clean hx's, if needed.
 
Caleffi DirtCals could you please tell me where you purchased these i will be installing a 40 plate for dhw soon thanks keith
 
docgogo said:
Caleffi DirtCals could you please tell me where you purchased these i will be installing a 40 plate for dhw soon thanks keith

I got mine through my local plumbing vendor, Granite Group/ Capital Plumbing (although I had to special order and it was a bit of a wait)- but last I knew, you could find them at Houseneeds.com also. For DHW, you may want to consider Y-strainers with screens. The Dirtcals seem super efficient (much more than a screen) at multi-pass filtering, but I am less clear about the degree to which they'll take out contaminants in a single pass, as you'd have with DHW. For the ultimate, you could [perhaps] put in a screen filter to catch the big chunks, followed by a Dirtcal to settle out the little particles. Perhaps HotRod, who's got more than a little inside insight into the Caleffi line of products, can chime in on whether the Dirtcals are well-suited (or even OK'd) for DHW?
 
Guys, for Webstone valves and plate heat exchangers, I would recommend as a supplier online retailer www.PexUniverse.com. They're a less expensive than houseneeds.com. At the same time they have flat plate heat exchangers that can be shipped the same day.
 
Also, cleaning of the brazed plate heat exchanger can be done at home. All you need is to back flush the cleaning solution with at least 1.5 times the normal flow rate. Try vinegar as the cleaning solution first. usually it's enough, if done at regular intervals. there are plenty of cleaning instructions from manufacturers on the internet, including swep.com and http://www.brazetek.com/downloads
 
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