What type of fireplace is this and what can i do to even it up

You got yourself a humdilly of a pickle there. Everything in those photos screams "Combustible!"

First, you need to decide what you want the net result to be. Is that a gas unit? The pipe shown looks like galvanized - not the best choice for wood burning. If you are planning to upgrade to wood, you'll want to find yourself a zero-clearance fireplace that you're happy with. I wouldn't try re-installing the same old dragon you have there, personally, but if that's what you want, then fine...

Second, you need to figure out what's in the way over to the left there. Why'd they build it offset like that? Chances are they had some valid reason. And you also need to think about your finish look. Planning to keep that fake brick veneer? the marble hearth? add a mantel? ditch the late-70's shag? However much you're willing to rip out and replace largely dictates what you can rebuild and hide behind new materials. You can't likely expect to just slice out some wall to the left of the fireplace, slide the whole thing over to the left, and then slip the cut-out back into the right side and make it look right.

One would imagine that provided you can maintain all the necessary clearances to combustibles (CTC's) - i.e. measure everything, tear it apart, rebuild it so no wood or drywall is any closer than it is now - you'd not be creating an unsafe condition. But you would be ripping nearly everything shown in your first pic out and replacing / rebuilding / repainting it all.

Good luck, welcome to the Hearth!

Looks like a zero clearance type fireplace to me. The chimney looks like the duravent that we have in our house, galvanized outside with stainless on the inside, could be wrapped with insulation for double wall, or like ours, has a middle liner and air cooled. There is a label on the chimney up towards the top that will have the manufacture's name and specs on it. You may have to look at another one up above to find one that is readable though. If you have a basement, I am guessing the offset is to allow clearance for another chimney system to come up from the basement, otherwise I have no clue why the offset.

If there is a basement, I would consider keeping the offset in case you wanted/needed a flue from down there. Otherwise I would get rid of the offset and either install a new high efficiency zero clearance, or rip the whole thing and install a real wood stove on new hearth, depending on the house layout, heating needs, budget, and desired looks.

Good luck and keep us posted.

yeah you could do a freestanding stove w/ wall protection, centered on that wall, and just have a couple 45's to jog into the offset flue up high. but you'd need a big room to do that w/ the clearances req'd around a freestanding stove.

UK
where did you take those pics from. Is the left side of that wall(hearth?) opened up. It dosent look like you pulled the fire place to take the pics. If that is the case you might be able to do what you want with the left side of it. I would get a cert. chimney sweep to come out and inspect you system, he will let you know what you have and if he is reputable he should know if you meet all clearences and if your chimney is the right one for the unit you are using.

However newer EPA stove or 0 clearence will be alot more efficent if you are planning to heat your home with it, but if it is just for once in a while thing this unit with the proper clearences should work, then it is just reframing it and adding some more up dated material -- Stone, Tile real brick what ever you want.

When we bought our home 2 years ago we tore out an old brick hearth/wall w/old Franklin stove and only 4inchs of clearence and replaced it with a Blue stone wall/hearth and a new EPA Cert. Kuma wood stove. and we have heated our 1600 2ft ranch with ease ever since and with only 3 cord of good hardwood (hard maple/oak/ash) this past winter and a toasty 75 degree temp even on the coldest of nights down to -20F.

But when we bought the house it was either replace to 50 year old gas furnace or the ancient wood stove and after the closing costs and other repairs we decied the wood stove at 1/3 the price of a new high efficent furnace was more in our budget.

Looks like a heatilator fireplace and the flue does not look class A. It's probably double walled 8 inch outer 6 inch inner flue good for a gas log or small wood fire.

I had the same thing in my house and removed it all. I replaced it with a kozy heat z42 zero clearance fireplace that fit the space perfectly and a new class A chimney. Couldn't be happier.

OK, this is an older insulated chimney system that most likely is in 3 or 4 foot sections with twist connections holding it together. Oliver-Macleod googled leads me to Security Chimneys International. There should also be a label or tag on the fireplace somewhere. It will most likely be somewhere on the back or sides, but possibly somewhere that can be seen from the front. It should have clearance from combustible requirements listed on it somewhere on that label. It may or may not be made by the same company as the chimney.

If all you are wanting to do is even up the sides of the hearth and modernize the vernier brick, then you should be able to do so depending on the listed clearance listed on the fireplace. Before doing any work on the hearth it might be wise to get the system checked over by a good chimney sweep (not one who is itching to sell you a new system). If there are problems with the chimney and fireplace, you will want to repair or replace it first anyway.

I still say that space on the left was there for the option of running a chimney from the basement in the future. It seems as though you are not interested in doing that, so there is no reason to keep that space assuming there is nothing else in that chase and clearances listed on that fireplace unit allow it.

I'd stick a hearth tool set or log rack on the left side to make it look more symmetrical and call it a day until you have the time/desire to rip it down and rebuild to your taste. In fact, this is probably why it was built/designed that way to begin with...

Based on what I think is a nail in the ceiling picture, I'm guessing that your rafters run perpendicular to the face of the fireplace and you have a rafter that was in the way. Instead of using an offset, it was decided "hey, just move that sucker over a little bit! It will look fine..."