Sheared Work Table Bolts on 27 Ton MTD / Troy-Bilt... What did you do?

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zzr7ky

Minister of Fire
Hearth Supporter
Jun 12, 2006
1,053
Hi -

I'm not splitting anything unusual, just 8 - 24" Ash and assorted smaller stuff. The unit(s) are 27 ton MTD / TroyBilt. It has happened several times.

The bolts/screws that hold the work tables up one both sides of the I beam are shearing off. They seem to be about 1/4" diameter thread forming type so there is no nut.

I'm planning to ream out any thread and though bolt with grade 8 bolt/nut. Is 1/4" enough? Did some one already figure this out?

Mike
 
zzr7ky said:
Hi -

I'm not splitting anything unusual, just 8 - 24" Ash and assorted smaller stuff. The unit(s) are 27 ton MTD / TroyBilt. It has happened several times.

The bolts/screws that hold the work tables up one both sides of the I beam are shearing off. They seem to be about 1/4" diameter thread forming type so there is no nut.

I'm planning to ream out any thread and though bolt with grade 8 bolt/nut. Is 1/4" enough? Did some one already figure this out?

Mike

yep thats what i did 27 tons something going to break just a matter what it is!
 
They're 5/16-18, I put 5/16-18 grade 8 bolts on mine. I broke the original ones when I was splitting odd pieces and they push down into the tables. If I pay attention when I'm splitting I don't have any issues. I can usually tell when it's happening, sometimes I continue on, sometimes I stop before I screw them up. ;)
 
Same as the other guys.

Steve
 
If it is pushing down and bending, better bolts may help.
If it is snagging the table with a knot or limb and pushing it towards the end of the beam, well, no bolts will withstand 20 tons. They you need a larger, flatter surface so the log can't snag it.
The table I made was just a chunk of 1 inch thick multiply plywood.
Others hve done flat plate or long pipes. there is another thread on this, either here or at as.
 
I have the same splitter. Instead of breaking the bolts I've actually bent both "cradles". I tend to think of my setup as more "custom" now. I love the splitter, no doubt about it. But the tables/cradles seem to be a little bit weak for the amount of splitting force these things put out.
 
stee6043 said:
I have the same splitter. Instead of breaking the bolts I've actually bent both "cradles". I tend to think of my setup as more "custom" now. I love the splitter, no doubt about it. But the tables/cradles seem to be a little bit weak for the amount of splitting force these things put out.

Same here . . . bent the cradles . . . I removed the original bolts on the one affected side and replaced . . . a bit annoying since the splitter was brand new . . . but not a big deal to fix.
 
My 20 ton uses 5/16ths bolts with nuts and while I've never broken a bolt, I've bent the cradles a few times.
 
Would it be possible to weld them to braces and bolt to a better area?
 
Hi

My son offered to weld them on but I'm thinking that bolt on will allow removal for reshaping once in a while.

I usually cut trees i nthe woods that are fairly straight grained and split nice. However an occasional fence row tree with lots of big branches will split every way but straight. That's what leads to sheared bolts. Thanks for the intel on the thread size. Picking the grade 8 bolts today.

Thanks,
Mike
 
just bought a new filter fot the troy built 42.00 $ wow
 
What was the filter for? I take my filters to NAPA and they are able to match or find a comperable one. They have listings for a variety of different equipment including mowers and things. It helps if you know the size and make of the engine. I got one the other day for my riding mower and it was cheaper than the dealer. It is a WIX brand and from what I hear, they are good filters.... sorry for the long rant...
 
probably a standard 1 inch -16 thread SAE spin on filter mount made by many companies.
I don't have the NAPA numbef here it is on my other computer but I think it was 12xx something or 25xx somthing. $12 or so for 10 micron version. I'll look tomorrow.
 
kevin j said:
probably a standard 1 inch -16 thread SAE spin on filter mount made by many companies.
I don't have the NAPA numbef here it is on my other computer but I think it was 12xx something or 25xx somthing. $12 or so for 10 micron version. I'll look tomorrow.

That would be sweeet! thank you in advance! Part #723-0405 same one thats on the mtd
 
Here you go:

NAPA Gold 1259 is a 10 micron element in 1-12 thread, easy to obtain, around $10-$15, and good quality.



Cut and pasted from a file.
I am assuming you are referring to a spin-on can filter element. Most are built to one or the other of two standards: SAE standard US threads on center post, or ISO with metric threads on center post.
Some common SAE mounts are:
1. ¾-16 center thread (filter about 3 inches OD). This is visually similar to the common Ford/Chrysler engine oil filter mount. Do NOT interchange the two. Engine filters usually have a bypass valve and anti drainback check built into the element. Hydraulic filters have bypass built into the head, not the element. This size filter is usually only for pilot lines and small flow applications. (There are also many other standard threads used for engine oil filter mounts.)

2. SAE 1 inch-12 threads/inch center thread (filter about 3.8 inches OD) This is by far the most common small flow spin on filter used on mobile or stationary equipment. Almost all the major equipment and filter manufacturers have this in the lineup.
Hydraulic filters almost always have a bypass built into the mounting head. I am not aware of any spin on hydraulic elements that have bypass built into the element. However, before substituting an element, check your filter head to make sure there is a bypass in place, all pieces there, and functioning. Also check that the head was installed in the correct direction. Seems like a ‘duh’ task, but I have seen two different situations where the OEM manufacturer installed heads backwards.

NAPA Gold 1259 is a 10 micron element in 1-12 thread, easy to obtain, around $10-$15, and good quality.

Another NAPA listing I have has #1551 10 micron, #1552 20 micron, and #1553 33 micron. I would not use any of these. I would not use anything greater than 10 micron for a return filter, and 20 or 33 micron are much too fine for a suction filter. Also, the 15xx are cheaper, so I assume they are cellulose (paper) elements. I think the Gold series is microglass fiber but not sure. Almost all of the industrials hydraulic filter manufacturers have gone to microglass media many years ago. Paper was the best available for many years, but now is only used for the lowest possible cost applications.


3. 1.50 -16 center thread (filter about 5.1 inches OD) for larger flows. There are different versions (not interchangeable) of metal shell and outer gasket design. Some are flat gaskets, similar to the common 1-12 mount, and some have L shaped gaskets. These are often called Gresen, or Cross, or Donaldson, or Vickers designs, after the original vendors names. I don’t have NAPA cross references for those.

4. There are also metric threaded center posts built by various Italian and European manufacturers, in sizes approximately 1 inch (25 or 26 mm) and 1.5 inch (35 to 40 mm). Won’t address here. Just be aware if the filter is not quite right for the SAE threads it may be metric.

kcj
 
zzr7ky said:
Hi -

I'm not splitting anything unusual, just 8 - 24" Ash and assorted smaller stuff. The unit(s) are 27 ton MTD / TroyBilt. It has happened several times.

The bolts/screws that hold the work tables up one both sides of the I beam are shearing off. They seem to be about 1/4" diameter thread forming type so there is no nut.

I'm planning to ream out any thread and though bolt with grade 8 bolt/nut. Is 1/4" enough? Did some one already figure this out?

Mike

By the "work tables", do you mean when using it horizontally?
 
kevin j said:
Here you go:

NAPA Gold 1259 is a 10 micron element in 1-12 thread, easy to obtain, around $10-$15, and good quality.



Cut and pasted from a file.
I am assuming you are referring to a spin-on can filter element. Most are built to one or the other of two standards: SAE standard US threads on center post, or ISO with metric threads on center post.
Some common SAE mounts are:
1. ¾-16 center thread (filter about 3 inches OD). This is visually similar to the common Ford/Chrysler engine oil filter mount. Do NOT interchange the two. Engine filters usually have a bypass valve and anti drainback check built into the element. Hydraulic filters have bypass built into the head, not the element. This size filter is usually only for pilot lines and small flow applications. (There are also many other standard threads used for engine oil filter mounts.)

2. SAE 1 inch-12 threads/inch center thread (filter about 3.8 inches OD) This is by far the most common small flow spin on filter used on mobile or stationary equipment. Almost all the major equipment and filter manufacturers have this in the lineup.
Hydraulic filters almost always have a bypass built into the mounting head. I am not aware of any spin on hydraulic elements that have bypass built into the element. However, before substituting an element, check your filter head to make sure there is a bypass in place, all pieces there, and functioning. Also check that the head was installed in the correct direction. Seems like a ‘duh’ task, but I have seen two different situations where the OEM manufacturer installed heads backwards.

NAPA Gold 1259 is a 10 micron element in 1-12 thread, easy to obtain, around $10-$15, and good quality.

Another NAPA listing I have has #1551 10 micron, #1552 20 micron, and #1553 33 micron. I would not use any of these. I would not use anything greater than 10 micron for a return filter, and 20 or 33 micron are much too fine for a suction filter. Also, the 15xx are cheaper, so I assume they are cellulose (paper) elements. I think the Gold series is microglass fiber but not sure. Almost all of the industrials hydraulic filter manufacturers have gone to microglass media many years ago. Paper was the best available for many years, but now is only used for the lowest possible cost applications.


3. 1.50 -16 center thread (filter about 5.1 inches OD) for larger flows. There are different versions (not interchangeable) of metal shell and outer gasket design. Some are flat gaskets, similar to the common 1-12 mount, and some have L shaped gaskets. These are often called Gresen, or Cross, or Donaldson, or Vickers designs, after the original vendors names. I don’t have NAPA cross references for those.

4. There are also metric threaded center posts built by various Italian and European manufacturers, in sizes approximately 1 inch (25 or 26 mm) and 1.5 inch (35 to 40 mm). Won’t address here. Just be aware if the filter is not quite right for the SAE threads it may be metric.

kcj


NAPA Gold 1259 this will fit?
 
well, napa gold 1259 is a 10 micron, SAE standard spin on very widely used on mobile equipment. You will have to use the thread measurements and compare it to the one you have.
 
kevin j said:
well, napa gold 1259 is a 10 micron, SAE standard spin on very widely used on mobile equipment. You will have to use the thread measurements and compare it to the one you have.

Got it, thanks great advise!
 
Mine sheared and I had to drill out the remaining bolt of each hole... what a PITA.
Drilled out the holes a bit and put 3/8" bolts with nuts and washers. Haven't had a problem since.

I'd recommend anyone perform this fix before it breaks because drilling out the sheared threaded bolt(s) is NO fun!
 
clinkerstinker said:
Mine sheared and I had to drill out the remaining bolt of each hole... what a PITA.
Drilled out the holes a bit and put 3/8" bolts with nuts and washers. Haven't had a problem since.

I'd recommend anyone perform this fix before it breaks because drilling out the sheared threaded bolt(s) is NO fun!

That sucks, when mine broke I some sticking out. I grabbed the back side with vice grips and turned them out.
 
rdust said:
clinkerstinker said:
... I'd recommend anyone perform this fix before it breaks because drilling out the sheared threaded bolt(s) is NO fun!

That sucks, when mine broke I some sticking out. I grabbed the back side with vice grips and turned them out.

You were lucky!
 
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