Outside air considerations

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hoverp

New Member
Jan 3, 2010
83
Montana
Hi Gys, This is my first post. I live in Montana and it does get cold here!...about a month ago it was between -15 and -20 degrees for about 2 weeks...and its been much colder for longer than that as well...but to the point.

I have a 3 level house. In the basement (finished) I have a Blaze King KE1107 ULTRA. She is my pride and joy. My wood room with a natural dirt floor is just off the side of the living room my stove fits in. I stand next to the stove and open the wood room door and get my wood that way. I have an exterior 20x20 built in door I huck the wood in from the ground level outside.

I have the blower on the King and it puts the heat out and up the stairwell to the upper portions of the house the top 2 floors are open cathedral ceiling and we use a big central ceiling fan to make the house a convection house by pulling the heat up and pushing it down the outside of the inner walls.

I just replaced my Regency gas free standing stove on the main level with a Isle Royale...I dont have it installed yet.

My question specifically is for those who have outside air piped in for your stoves to breath how did you drill a 3-4 inch hole through the foundation??? I really want to pipe fresh outside ar to both my stoves but that will require going through my foundation walls...8 inches thick of concrete.....I dont have the option of going through the wood framined walls to the outside inless I want to see the big ugly 4 inch pipe for the Isle Royale sticking out of the wall(above my firebrick hearth) and I really cant route it other than through the foundation for the Blaze king.

any Ideas on getting through my concrete(rebar)?

Thanks

Patrick Hover

Montana.
 
Use a hammer drill with a good masonry bit.

I drilled a bunch of holes around the outside of the main hole. Always make it bigger and you can always fill it back in with more concrete when you're done.

And then switch out the drill bit with a chisel bit.....sort of like a mini-jackhammer.

This is what I did for my pellet stove pipe.
 
Thanks guys I will research the core drill...never seen one before, and copy on the multiple holes technique.

Patrick

P.S. sure wish I had some of the hard wood to burn..would love to see the performance difference....only lodgepole pine where Im at.
 
mdphilps said:
Use a hammer drill with a good masonry bit.

I drilled a bunch of holes around the outside of the main hole. Always make it bigger and you can always fill it back in with more concrete when you're done.

And then switch out the drill bit with a chisel bit.....sort of like a mini-jackhammer.

This is what I did for my pellet stove pipe.

+1 for the hammer drill...It's a work out, but doable even for a normal-sized guy.
I'd hate to feel the torque of one of those core drills if a piece of re-bar is in the way...
The torque on the hammer drill alone is bad enuff with a 1-1/4 diameter bit,
specially if you're holding it at shoulder level or higher...
 
Rent the core drill with the stand and take it slow. I would think 8" of concrete with a 4" hole would end up being some what of a hack job with a hammer drill.
 
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