Propane conversion with DC sparker

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jimmie ray

New Member
May 23, 2010
62
Long Island
It seems that the conversion to propane on certain (or maybe all?) gas fireplaces requires replacement of the piezo ignitor with a DC sparker. I assume this is for safety, related to the higher density of propane. But wouldn't it be beneficial to just have the DC sparker standard equipment for both gas types? Any thoughts or experience with this? Thanks in advance!
 
jimmie ray said:
It seems that the conversion to propane on certain (or maybe all?) gas fireplaces requires replacement of the piezo ignitor with a DC sparker. I assume this is for safety, related to the higher density of propane. But wouldn't it be beneficial to just have the DC sparker standard equipment for both gas types? Any thoughts or experience with this? Thanks in advance!

Where did you hear this? I've done maybe a hundred NG to LP conversions in the last 10 years & NEVER encountered a conversion that MANDATED changing of the piezo igniter to a battery operated unit.
Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG) is heavier than air & will "puddle" in lower areas, & a "delayed" ignition can scare the crap out of you, but if you remove the glass BEFORE you create the spark from EITHER igniter, you can hear & smell the gas so you know when it's reached the pilot hood & lessen the chances of necessitating an underwear change...
 
I know when you convert a Regency gas fireplace to propane the kit comes with the electric spark. We always put em in, but I never questioned if it was mandatory.
 
Yes, the one propane conversion that I did so far was on a Regency. The conversion kit included the DC sparker and all associated parts, so I assume it is mandatory to install it. The instructions were well written and illustrated, but did not give a rational for the sparker change. I would not expect the homeowner to remove the glass and surround each time they light the pilot, nor have I intentionally always started any units this way. Actually, from the instruction manual: "Make sure the glass in the door frame is properly positioned. Never operate the appliance with the glass removed". I believe the blowout ports are designed to allow safe lighting under less than ideal circumstances?
 
The blow out ports are designed for that purpose. I still try to remove the glass when lighting a pilot if it doesnt light within 20-30 seconds. When possible, if a customer needs to relight a pilot, I'll offer to go there myself or send a tech to do it at no charge. (providing they bought the appliance from us)Too many dumb people out there who dont have the proper respect for gas.
 
Franks said:
The blow out ports are designed for that purpose. I still try to remove the glass when lighting a pilot if it doesnt light within 20-30 seconds. When possible, if a customer needs to relight a pilot, I'll offer to go there myself or send a tech to do it at no charge. (providing they bought the appliance from us)Too many dumb people out there who dont have the proper respect for gas.

also, the gas company often offers free pilot lighting


i have no idea why a standing pilot should be converted to dc spark????
must be specific to the brand/model you are working with, like Daksy i've never done this in all the years i've done conversions, ever
(but we haven't sold regency for 10yrs)
 
Wood Heat Stoves said:
i have no idea why a standing pilot should be converted to dc spark????
must be specific to the brand/model you are working with, like Daksy i've never done this in all the years i've done conversions, ever
(but we haven't sold regency for 10yrs)

I think it's still considered a "standing pilot" (since the valve is unchanged) - just the sparking source is more automatic than manual? I thought it was odd that only the Regency requires this, given the general design of most units are not that different.
As far as lighting with the glass door on or off - I agree that you need the door off, and maybe even a log or two removed, to clearly see if the spark is good when lighting delays are experienced.
 
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