So...they are gone. Blowers don't work even in manual mode and I feel cold air out of the blower inlets....and theyf orgot the heat sheild. Looks like they are coming back. Ugh.
New to wood burning, this forum, and about to buy and insert...hello and please help.
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So...they are gone. Blowers don't work even in manual mode and I feel cold air out of the blower inlets when the wind blows (slight, but enough to move a tissue drapped over them)....and they forgot the heat sheild. Looks like they are coming back. Ugh.
So...they are gone. Blowers don't work even in manual mode and I feel cold air out of the blower inlets when the wind blows (slight, but enough to move a tissue drapped over them)....and they forgot the heat sheild. Looks like they are coming back. Ugh.
I would expect a reputable installer to have checked everything before they left. Is the power cord plugged in? Follow instructions from the manual, 3 small fires first, each one a little larger than the last. :smirk:
sorry for the repeat post earlier. No fires yet. I was headed back to work. It went like this... They went over the controls blah blah...but as they left, I vacuumed around the fireplace and I thought, hmmm.. on manual mode, these fans should work regardless if I have a fire or not. So, I plugged it in and put in manual mode...nothing. So I tried another outlet and varied the speed switch etc. While I was messing with the switch and rheostat, I notice the draft....which means the block-off plate and insulation/sealing isn't right....whick also means the chimney end can't be seal correctly. Apparently they aren't a reputable dealer or someone had a bad day. The lead guy seemed to know his stuff, but something was apparently off. I hope they can come back and fix it soon, the draft is cold and my temper is a little hot. A new insert should make this situaion opposite.... relaxed with warm air!
Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
Doug, I hope you get this worked out. It sounds like they didn't seal anything. I always use hi temp silicone around the outside of the block off plate and regular silicone under the top plate or cap. I also pack rock wool under the top and bottom plate for good measure, seems to work well. Post some pictures when you get things straightened out. Jim
Thanks Rudy. I saw them doing what looked like what you are saying. I read enough on here that I might have been OK doing this myself (with a friend...that thing looked every bit of 500 lbs when they moved it in.) and paid pretty close attention. We will see. Can you or anyone tell me if in fact the blower should run in manual mode without a fire ever being started? On a really windy day should I feel any air at the blower inlet? I just want to make sure I am not being unreasonable or flat out ignorant here...but it seems pretty straight forward. I was hoping that for $700 install, I wouldn't have to worry about it.
Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
Doug, If you were there when they put it in and you saw them do those things you are probably ok. I do not know about the blower on the 550 but the 450 only comes on when the snap stat calls for heat, it has no manual setting only low, high, and off. I palced my hand in front of the blower on mine and with the primary air open I can feel air movement, maybe this is what you are noticing. Fire that bad boy up and see how it works. Good luck and lets see some pictures. Jim
Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
Doug, I pulled up your manual online and the manual selection on the switch should allow you to run the fans regardless of the temperature, it bypasses the snap stat. I would have them come back and look at it, they should have checked it when they were there. I am sure they just overlooked it mistakes happen. Jim
Doug, On the 550 the blower,fan will work with the stove cold. If you get nothing it sounds like they crossed, or didn't connect the wires somewhere to the fan. I would have them come back and show you that it is in proper working order. With them there you should be abler to start avery small kindling fire in the fire box. Warren :coolgrin:dougcalaman said:
So, I pulled the cover and found the following: Fan cord dislodged. Fixed, no probelm. However....the old outside air supply wasn't properly sealed off. I stuffed a rag in from the outside and that slowed the air inside down a bit. The next surprise was when I looked up at the "block plate" and saw a three-piece "plate" with a big gap/hole in it and no isulation or sealant. I also noticed that the liner insulation wrap is about 12-18" short of the block plate....yup the gap waws big enough that I could clearly see a little way up the chimney. The edges of the chimney cap at the top of the chimney looks a little rough too...and since there is a bit of a draft I am guessing that it isn't really sealed well. So, I am writing a letter, and I guess stopping the check until it is fixed. A little nerve-racking and very dissapointing. If I can get pics up I will. What fun....and it only cost me $775!
Attached two pics of block plate. Read through my manual. It states that the block plate should be sealed and the air space between the liner and the chimney should be able to vent at the top. I am unsure of what they did at the top. I will have to go up and see. (Snow and ice on roof and my schedule is preventing being home before 9:30 PM. I will try and get the photos posted correctly.
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Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
Doug, That is some seriously sh*tty workmanship on the blockoff plate. I do not think that anyone on this board who is a qualified installer (I am not) would call this a professional job. It looks like they just layed some scrap pieces of sheet metal on top of the damper throat. The one I did for a buddy last Saturday looked similar to mine but we did it in two sections and seamed it in the middle. It was a little more time consuming to do but worked better for where his liner cam through. The whole thing took no more than an hour at most to measure, template with cardboard, fabricate and install.There are many examples on this forum of good ones done many different ways but that is definitely not one of them. Here are the only pictures of mine that I have for reference, it is not as good as the last ones I have done for friends. Good luck, Jim
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so this got even more intersting. I went on the roof when the snow melted and found this treasure. (There are more pics, but I think you got the idea) BTW, thanks so much for the block plate picts. I will look at some more pics. I have two questions yet... is it ok to have the flue sealed up at the chimney top and sealed tight at the block plate? Also, should there be high temp insulation stuffed in and around just above or on top of the block plate?
so this got even more intersting. I went on the roof when the snow melted and found this treasure. (There are more pics, but I think you got the idea) BTW, thanks so much for the block plate picts. I will look at some more pics. I have two questions yet... is it ok to have the flue sealed up at the chimney top and sealed tight at the block plate? Also, should there be high temp insulation stuffed in and around just above or on top of the block plate?
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Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
Doug, The whole job looks shoddy. To answere your questions, yes I have both a top and a bottom block off. And I did pack rock wool fire stop insulation around the pipe at the top under the top cap and in the damper area above the block off plate, it seems to work real well.
Doug, I can't believe the poor workmanship of the whole job. My first impression is to photograph their work and post it all over town. Hopefully , they didn't cash your check, but I'll bet they ran right to the bank with it. I bought a chimney cap from Chimney Liner Depot? on line . It fits a 12 x 12 flue and it is easy to self install. I will e-mail you some photos of how I keep ashes from spilling outside the stove. Hope you are fimally getting some heat from your 550. Warren
Doug, Look at the 6 inch deluxe terra cotta flue plate for 13 x 13 tile at Chimneylinerdepot.com It nounts with only four screws and hold up in very high wind, where I live. You probably have a 6 inch flex liner. ;-) Warren
So it looks like my tales of woe are over. I just finished documenting everything and was going to give the dealer I bought the Jotul one chance on the way to the attorney general and suddenly without warning or prompting the owner (who was previously rude and unresponsive) called and said that he would have a different installer out tomorrow (this was last night). He sent another guy who was awesome. Sealed and insulated block plate, new cap, old cold air supply duct closed and packed. We had fire today! Praise the Lord...I'll tell you...it had to have been God cause that guy did an unpropted 180... and the guy he sent who isn't even a full time guy for him was just awesome...well both guys. Thanks Jay and Paul. Picts of the insert with FIRE in it in the morning. Thanks all...looking forward to helping others with all that I have learned. You guys are great. Thanks and God bless.
firefighterjake
Minister of Fire
dougcalaman said:
Even though you had issues with the dealer originally it certainly wouldn't hurt to give him a call or send a note telling him how pleased you are with the work . . . a) it may help to throw some business to this new guy who apparently did things right and b) it never hurts to maintain a working relationship with the dealer in case you need help in the future . . . plus it's the right thing to do . . . complain long and loud when things are not done right . . . and praise long and often when things are done right.
Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
firefighterjake said:
+1 on what Firefighter said above. People never hesitate to take the time to complain (in this case very justifiable) But most never take the time to let you know they are pleased. I am sure the dealer and the second installers will appreciate it. Merry Christmas, Jim
Rudyjr
Feeling the Heat
gibson
New Member
dougcalaman said:
The heat shield is big. I was bummed out when I saw it. When you put it in, it is absolutely amazing how you don't notice it. It also helps to direct the heat from the blowers out into the room. It costs like $75, but is necessary for inspection if you need it.
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