Help with choosing a high efficiency woodburning fireplace - Quadrafire 7100 - and other questions s

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fourshuz

New Member
Apr 23, 2011
9
Eastern MA
We have struggled heating one portion of our home for the last 4 years. The home is a 70 year old colonial. We live in Eastern Ma and can have long cold winters. The majority of our home is insulated with a basement underneath, and feels fairly warm (we keep it at 63, so not sure that this term really applies :) On the right side of our home (if you are looking at it), the garage was converted to a family room. It has pitched high ceilings with a ceiling fan. There is a fireplace insert in this room. In addition, it has a bench out front, and a large rectangle space underneath the bench (supposedly for firewood). Well, the previous owners did the conversion. It is unlikely that any insulation was used on the floor or walls. This room is frigid. Despite being its own heating zone (separate from the one that covers the rest of the house), the floor is like an icebox and there is a draft so large, we have put wood covers over the fireplace and "wood" area underneath, for 6 months of the year.

We have decided to replace the fireplace in there with a high efficiency wood fireplace, since we need to try to keep this room from sucking out all the heat. We have done research and have pretty much decided on the Quadrafire 7100. Our concern is that it is extremely pricy (today we were in the fireplace store and were quoted $7600 plus tax for the unit, installation, and chimney piping equal to 2 stories- not sure we need all this piping - but piping quote alone was $1100). This is not including the demo of old unit and finishing when it is done (hoping to do this ourselves). In addition, this room is located at the edge of the home. It has high vaulted ceilings, and we are concerned that heat produced by the unit will get trapped here, and not really heat the transition portion of the home as well, which can be cold, especially the floor. We have a few questions for those of you familiar with this unit or other similar units. We do like the "fireplace" like look of the quadrafire (you can see the fire in the glass) and the high efficiency / burn time, so we can leave it burning through the night and while we are at work.


Questions are:


1. We asked the saleman about the ducting for the unit, and if we could duct into the 1/2 wall island area(shown in the picture), aiming toward the floor (there is an open vent there for the water radiator - boiler). He seemed to think that the ducts dont work, and wouldn't work for our situation. Does anyone have experience that would suggest otherwise?

2. Are there other units we should be considering. We don't want to spend this much money and be disappointed. We don't have lots of cash. We think this would make a big difference in our oil bill and the feeling in the house, but if we spend this money and are disappointed, that would be dreadful. Are there others that could offer the same kinds of features we are looking for, that we have not thought about.

3. We will be ripping out the old fireplace, dry wall, etc. We will also be taking out the bench and hole below. We will insulate the wall (we suspect there is none) and put a hearth at the floor level instead. Should we have concerns about this process, since there is currently a fireplace there? Could we reuse any of the chimney components for our current fireplace for the quadrafire.

4. How far will we need to mount the tv above the quadrafire in order to safely run the tv (afraid of the heat output).

5. Is installation feasible for handy, but not technical do-it-yourselfers?

I really appreciate any input. I am attaching two pictures to describe the space we are discussing.

Thanks again.

Jacey
 

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The 7100 ...ROCKS....

It puts out the heat it says it does.. what you do with this heat is another story...
You can let it rise to the ceiling and not circulate it. You can let it escape out poorly insulated walls.

It wont take much to move the heat around.

Not sure about the ducting thing. I think it is kind of hit or miss. It moves the air pretty good on its own. I would like to see one fully ducted and see how it does.

there are other units... not sure if they are any better.

Not sure about re-using anything.

We decided not to put a TV above our 7100... just too dang hot. And you have to be 60" from bottom of stove to mantel bottom... to dang high...

installation is feasible. Its not that hard. Do a little mini scale model if you feel uncomfortable.

download the installation manual and check it out.
 
Thanks so much for the info on the Quadrafire. We really like it in comparison with others, just want to make sure it makes sense for us. I should also say that our colonial is 2000 sq. ft. We have a ceiling fan in the room where we are putting in the unit. I can not say that it is well insulated, but the fireplace wall will be. It is the only part of our house that is a slab, so that room is cold. We have an area rug in there, but the floor is cold. Do you think the ceiling fan is enough to get the heat down and over or do we need to think of something else to get the heat over (to hit the main part of the house and hopefully make its way slightly upstairs? Any ideas would be welcomed.

Thanks again. Loving this sight and all the info.

Jacey
 
Was the garage conversion ever permitted and inspected? In WI the energy conservation codes essentially prohibit this practice unless you tear the slab up and insulate under it properly. I don't know about Mass specifically, but it seems like they have fairly strict codes there and this could be an issue down the road for you.

Anyway...

1. We asked the saleman about the ducting for the unit, and if we could duct into the 1/2 wall island area(shown in the picture), aiming toward the floor (there is an open vent there for the water radiator - boiler). He seemed to think that the ducts dont work, and wouldn’t work for our situation. Does anyone have experience that would suggest otherwise?

IMO there is no point in running the heat zone within the same room as the fireplace. They are also expensive, $500+ for just a short run.

2. Are there other units we should be considering. We don’t want to spend this much money and be disappointed. We don’t have lots of cash. We think this would make a big difference in our oil bill and the feeling in the house, but if we spend this money and are disappointed, that would be dreadful. Are there others that could offer the same kinds of features we are looking for, that we have not thought about.

The 7100FP has extra features like the AUX air system, if you do not plan on using that the Heat & Glo Northstar is almost the same fireplace, but less expensive and it has a different front fascia and door handles.

3. We will be ripping out the old fireplace, dry wall, etc. We will also be taking out the bench and hole below. We will insulate the wall (we suspect there is none) and put a hearth at the floor level instead. Should we have concerns about this process, since there is currently a fireplace there? Could we reuse any of the chimney components for our current fireplace for the quadrafire.

I'm sure there will be some surprises hiding behind the fireplace, plan to find clearance violations and building code violations. If your old flue system is HHT SL300 or Simpson DuraPlus you could use it on a 7100FP. The Northstar also uses the SL300 pipe. If the old fireplace is a Heatilator BRAND it may have SL300, the chances of having DuraPlus on any brand of pre-fab is slim.

4. How far will we need to mount the tv above the quadrafire in order to safely run the tv (afraid of the heat output).

Bottom of the mantle needs to be at 60" from the base of the fireplace (not from the bottom of the front, but the bottom of the outer shell). So figure on 3-6" height for a mantle, and a small air gap, you are looking at up to 68" from the floor if you put the fireplace on the floor. I estimate that is similar to the height your TV is already at, maybe a little higher.

If you ask Quaqdrafire they do not recommend putting any electronics above a 7100FP or Northstar no matter how high it is, or what mantle is there.

5. Is installation feasible for handy, but not technical do-it-yourselfers?

If you want to do it right, plan on putting in 4-6 hours to read and understand the entire installation manual. You can download from the Quadrafire web page. I would guess an average DIYer it would take a good week (or 2-3 weekends) to do a full tear out and reinstall with unknown surprises waiting behind the old fireplace. My install crew would have this type of job done in 8-10 hours (one long ass day of hard work).

Also not sure about MA tax laws, but in WI there is NO sales tax if the item being sold will be installed as a "fixture" in the home. The reasoning is that it increases the homes value and may make your property taxes go up, so they get you on it on the back end. This only works if the business selling it, is also installing it. Otherwise it is a "pickup" sale and there is normal sales tax applied.

I have seen a lot of DIY and/or unqualified contractor fireplace installations, and many of them are time bombs waiting for the right conditions to cause a house fire, or kill someone with CO poisoning.

If you plan on doing cultured stone around it, I would suggest a qualified and experienced mason installs that. It takes a good artistic eye and practice to make stone look beautiful.
 
Inferno-

Thanks so much for your reply. I really appreciate all the info. Your answers were my suspicions as well. I want this done right, just want it to make sense in the budget. Will call some contractors tomorrow and see what we find. I do think we can open up the wall, but not sure about the rest.

We may still attempt the TV in this room, but feel we have about 6 inches higher if needed to protect it. Looking for a rustic mantel right now (pretty heavy duty raw wood type). Maybe that will help.

I totally agree with the mason work. My concern is that we are not ripping up the floor (all hardwoods) or drywall on the other two sides. If those walls or floor are not insulated to code are we doing this for naught? I guess I should go to town hall and see what kinds of permits were pulled for the job and see if there are any notes on inspection. Thanks for that info. This is our first house (and last) and we were late to the game as we were city dwellers (although we managed an apartment building in Boston and had handy work experience, no real building experience).

Do you have any suggestions on circulating the air so it does not get trapped in this room? It is pitched and at the far right of our home, in a center entrance colonial (stairs to upstairs at the center entrance. attaching picture of house with room here. We do have a ceiling fan. Is that sufficient?

Also, I am attaching a picture from the outside back where the current chimney is. It is bottom of the barrel, no frills. Not sure what kind of recs are made in the install manual on the 7100 yet, but hoping that is will work with this kind of a room.

Thanks again for your info.

Jacey
 

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Check the min flue height on the 7100FP and compare to your setup. Figure on one set of 30 deg elbows (which increases the min flue height). The height is measured from the base of the fireplace. If you have more than 6ft extending out of the roof you should install brace poles or a chimney chase structure around the flue. The chase will keep the flue slightly warmer and help draft.

The ceiling fan on reverse and the blower on the unit is about the best you can do. A strategically placed box fan on the floor might also help get air moving. If you had basement or crawlspace under the fireplace area I would also suggesting running the AUX air to another part of the house which will help move air around. I assume this is a slab on grade garage, as most are.

There could be a lot of reasons why this room is cold. Slab on grade with no insulation or frost barrier would be a good candidate. Also, I am not sure if it is normal practice to seal the framing to the foundation on the exterior walls in a garage, there could be cold leaking in under there (between the bottom of the walls and the foundation). Could be no insulation in the walls, ceiling space. Do you have any access to see above the ceiling?

You should pick up an IR temp gun and check around the room to see where it is coldest while it is still cool at night. You can get a really cheap one at radio shack, don't forget to buy a battery to go with it (battery costs almost as much as the IR thermometer from my recollection).

Also, was the sqft of the garage included in the specification of the home sale? I believe this is only allowed if it was permitted and passed inspection as a heated living space. You could have a non-disclosure issue there.

There would normally be a full plan of the remodel on file with the permit if this was done legally, and they should have record of the insulation requirements, etc...
 
Thanks again inferno. I am going to town hall tomorrow to check out the permit history etc. That will at least give me some info into the insulation. Also called a couple of contractors to get some quotes. Think we will leave this one to the professionals. Looking forward to a warm winter 2012.

Thanks for all the info.

Jacey
 
There is not a ton of info about the 7100FP on this board.
But what there is is good. Like what you have read on here from jtp already.

I was remodeling so they framed things in then (past winter). the vendor installed the 7100FP.

I told him to run the AUX to the basement and I could route it later if needed.
He said he usually don't do that.. I was the first to every ask him too.
I'm not sure he understood what it did.

everything else was top notch. Even better then I could have asked for.
I have an open floor plan so just the vents on the FP move the air nicely so far.
I had the cold air returns moved around and added 2 more to get max air movement when fan is on.

You have a bit more of a challenge moving air but you will find a way.

I can tell upstairs I might need a small fan pushing some air to the other end of the house.
 
Do not put the tv above the fireplace. No matter how high, unless you want to buy a new tv. We had a contractor put one above a 44 elite even after we said no. He said the mantle would protect it. First fire we get a call from the home owner and he procedes to chew us out like its our fault. We have had several tv's fried by our woodburning fireplaces over the last 4 years. Even when we tell them no. Not a place for a tv but people still try it. Gas is ok, wood is not.
 
Well, we finally got the project done, and it is amazing. We are so happy with the fireplace (Quadrafire 7100), and so happy that we had a contractor do the install. There was absolutely no insulation behind the old fireplace, as we suspected. We have stoked up the fireplace twice with wonderful results. We do need to learn how to maintain a fire overnight. How many logs should we load. Full? How long should I reasonably expect it to go. I would like to have some embers after 7 / 8 hours so I can restart in the morning, and again, fill before we leave for work. We are going to start using this as a primary heat source. Any info would be helpful. It does work well with the logs we have used, however not going for long enough. Sunday, we tried to get it to go overnight, but was cold by morning (7 hours later).
 

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Hi Jacey,
Congrats on the install, great looking setup! We have a 7100FP that has been our primary heat source for our 2900sqft 1 level home for the past 2 years (we have unfinished bonus room above the garage that is just attic, not being heated). This will be my 3rd winter with it and I feel I have a good hang of it now, many thanks to knowledge gained from this forum. I just posted in the forum for the first time yesterday, my thread w/pics of my install is here:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/81729/

We have really enjoyed the 7100FP and it has been adequate for our needs, but I do not believe it can achieve an 8hr burn. Bear in mind our house is new construction--3yrs old, well insulated, premium vinyl windows, and the best I have been able to do has been ~6 to 7hrs w/enough coals remaining to restart. I achieve that with a pretty loaded box of hardwood (maple/oak) over existing coals in "cruise" mode with the air control over to the left to about 1/3, e.g. about halfway between closed and to the mid-point position before it engages the ACC spring. I find that when we have a stretch of really cold weather, say a week of high temps in the single digits or teens, I have to keep it loaded and going on "full", e.g. air control at mid-point, to maintain our house at ~72deg. I guess 42 windows thruout the house doesn't help. %-P

As you will see from my pics in thread above, I have return air ducts that are in our vaulted ceilings so I can recirculate the hot air thruout the house by simply turning on the HVAC fan. I have IR'd the ceiling at the return above the stove and get temps ~105deg or more up there so that's a lot of good heat that can be used. I also typically keep the blower fan on; the rheostat works really well to auto shut off the blower when the stove goes cold. The FP has been easy to start up w/the ACC, in fact I barely engage the spring when I start new fires.

Hope this helps!

Steve
 

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Rarely are attached garages insulated. As a mater of fact, codes that often require 2x6 home construction reduce that to 2x4 for the attached garage. If that was my home I would probe the wall for insulation and check the ceiling for it also. If the ceiling is un-insulated you can put 1/2" celotex sheets up there (interior) and cover those with drywall. That gives you about R4 or more additional insulation on the ceiling and it's easy to do and not super expensive. If the walls aren't insulated I would consider blown in in insulation. Notice I didn't address your fireplace? That's because I believe you really should do the insulation first. If you don't it will be a constant battle with mother nature no matter what stove you have.
 
fourshuz said:
Well, we finally got the project done, and it is amazing. We are so happy with the fireplace (Quadrafire 7100), and so happy that we had a contractor do the install. There was absolutely no insulation behind the old fireplace, as we suspected. We have stoked up the fireplace twice with wonderful results. We do need to learn how to maintain a fire overnight. How many logs should we load. Full? How long should I reasonably expect it to go. I would like to have some embers after 7 / 8 hours so I can restart in the morning, and again, fill before we leave for work. We are going to start using this as a primary heat source. Any info would be helpful. It does work well with the logs we have used, however not going for long enough. Sunday, we tried to get it to go overnight, but was cold by morning (7 hours later).

I would love to see a bigger picture than the thumbnail. It looks great!

I have the FPX 44 and from what I can see in your pic, the install is similar.
 

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This will be my first full year running the 7100FP.
It loves to burn. Kind of like a big dog pulling on a leash.

I can get a pretty long burn with coals left for restart maybe 8 hrs.

It loves to run full out and seems to behave doing it.

fingers crossed


Nice fireplaces guys.
 
Thanks everyone, we are so excited to have it done and are going for another try tonight to make it through the night and have enough coals to restart before work in the morning. I am having a little trouble with smoke coming into the house when I light it. Do I need to warm the flue and how exactly do I need to do that (I used to do that with the fireplace we had before, but that was not a wood stove so not sure how this is done. I think that some of the wood I started with today was damp so a little smokier than usual, but this was the second time, on a cooler day that the smoke didn't go up, rather went into the house. Any ideas.

Here is a bigger picture of the fireplace. We picked out the mantle from a saw mill. Actually picked out a tree and told them what part we wanted. They hung it on the wall with the bark still on. It is a beast, but awesome!

Thanks again.

Jacey
 

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Love those built in shelves.

Just want to make sure that you have the outside air knob (triangular shape) on the front lower right hand corner turned "right" to the open position. Otherwise definitely check your wood to make sure it is seasoned. Also curious how much flue pipe you ended up with installed?
 
Yeah!!! We had plenty of coals this morning! Fire is blazing now and ready for the day. We will see how we get through today, it is our longest, away day.

We have about 16 ft. of flue from stove to top of chimney. As you see in the picture of the old one, it is half exposed, as this is a one story room, and it has a pitched roof and skylights, so it needs to be up pretty high.

Thanks all.

Jacey
 
Thanks for posting more pictures. I love the look and can tell your proud of it. Enjoy!
 
turned out Great.


how is it heating the areas you intended?
 
fourshuz said:
Yeah!!! We had plenty of coals this morning! Fire is blazing now and ready for the day. We will see how we get through today, it is our longest, away day.

Great to hear! Keep us posted on what it looks like when you get home from your day, good luck!
 
We are on day three of the same coals. Working like a charm. A little too hot actually, but I think we will be happy when it is in the middle of the bitter winter. Heat is even making it upstairs.

Loving it!!! After a year and a half reading posts and dreaming on this website, so happy to finally be a proud owner (I know a little too over the top with the pictures, just excited).

Thanks for indulging my excitement!!

Jacey
 
How is the TV lasting?
 
Not an issue at all with the TV. We do have a large mantel though, so maybe that protects it a bit (no heat on top of the mantel). We have been running the wood stove fairly constantly, getting very hot in there, but no issue at all. I can not foresee it melting or anything. I can see the concern when not following the directed allotment of space that they recommend between the stove and the mantel, but we were exact in our measurements and like I said the mantel is wider than the typical one, so maybe that helps.
 
Good Morning,
Is it possible to add insulation prior to selecting a solution to you heating needs for this room/area? If so, I would hesitate to chooose a solution until you do an accurate evaluation of your current insulation and what can be added. A complete audit of window/door weather stipping and caulking should be included and after getting all of this info (what can be improved in these areas) then I would proceed. (after all that you may need a bit less that you think).

I have a similar situation and I have added 2 inches of foam, caulk, a new window, weather stripping and new siding. This has changed the entire situation.

Good luck.

Jim
 
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