Woodstock Fireview Questions

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fireview2788

Minister of Fire
Apr 20, 2011
972
SW Ohio
I gave the stove a light cleaning today after my 4 break in fires. Removed some ash, left a nice bed though, cemented the gap that the cement came out of, and gave it a good look over. Found no problems and now I'm looking forward to cooler weather.

I have two questions:

1) The manual says that I can remove the two shipping bolts on the cat but I can't find exactly which bolts they are. I am thinking they are the ones right on top on each side of the cat but I don't want to remove something I shouldn't. Anyone have a pic they can post to show me where they are?

2) The glass had some light soot on the sides but the center was clear. This cleaned nicely with a little mixture of ash and water. I am thinking this is likely from the moisture being driven out during the curing but wanted to make sure. (Before you ask, yes the wood is VERY dry and had no sizzle when it was burning.)


Thanks,

fv
 
1) There are only 2 bolts that hold the cat in place for shipping, one on each end. When those bolts are removed, you can lift the cat out by hand. This makes cleaning cleaning the cat very easy.

2) I burned mostly dry poplar last winter and I got soot & fly ash on my glass too. I've readjusted the air gap above the glass and hope that with drier oak this year that it won't be a problem. I often wished for a front door to open so cleaning the glass would be easy. My andirons are still hot enough to burn skin in the morning and cleaning the glass around them is my least fun wood stove chore!
 
KevinG said:
1) There are only 2 bolts that hold the cat in place for shipping, one on each end. When those bolts are removed, you can lift the cat out by hand. This makes cleaning cleaning the cat very easy.

2) I burned mostly dry poplar last winter and I got soot & fly ash on my glass too. I've readjusted the air gap above the glass and hope that with drier oak this year that it won't be a problem. I often wished for a front door to open so cleaning the glass would be easy. My andirons are still hot enough to burn skin in the morning and cleaning the glass around them is my least fun wood stove chore!

+1

If you got good wood and draft (draft is much better when the cold sets-in), your glass will stay clean of the black stuff. You will want to clean the fly ash off from time to time.

I had to re-adjust my air wash plate. The manual says the gap dimension and the easy way to hold that gap while tightening the plate after adjustment is to use the butt end of a drill bit that is the diameter of the gap you need.

Nice stove.

Good luck,
Bill
 
As above regarding the catalytic bolts.

Regarding the glass issue. I am a fanatic about keeping the glass on my woodstove clear / clean. I was forever wiping the glass on my former stove (Avalon Rainer) to keep it clear.

I purchased a Fireview 2 years ago. I was excited after I read about how clear the glass remained. I was extremely disappointed after the first few fires. The glass sooted up and everytime. Cleaning is not very easy with the andirons and the side door entry. My glass 'problem' solved itself after about a few long fires. I am sure it is related to moisture levels in the stove/stone. I will bet I only clean the inside glass in my fireview 2-3 times a season. Hang in there..... clear glass is on the way.

Rick D
 
Same here, first few fires on my Fireview had some soot but it cleared up and stayed very clean once broke in. My Keystones seem to soot up a bit more than my old Fireview. Maybe they are more draft sensitive because once colder weather hits the glass stays nice and clear.
 
Great, thanks for all the info.


fv
 
We too had some black glass with the burn-in fires. After those, it has never turned black again. Must have been for moisture in the stone.

On the shipping bolts, after one time not setting the cat back in right I bought two more bolts of that size but longer. Now when I set the cat in, I turn those bolts just a couple of turns. This just assures the cat has been set in right.
 
Am I right on which bolts I should be looking at?


fv
 
One bolt on each side of the cat. Can't miss them nor can you confuse them with something else.
 
Page 25 in the manual shows the cat and bolts.
 
Thanks BWS!


fv
 
OK, I took the bolts out this morning and boy am I embarrassed :red: that I even asked. I'm am soooo mechanically impaired I am afraid to take chances even when I can clearly see there won't be a problem. Thanks for not laughing at me!




fv
 
This is kind a funny because my buddy I sold my old Fireview to called last night wondering about those same bolts, but he was wondering what size he needed to go in there. I gave him chit and told him he needs to read the manual, no easy answers from me.
 
fv, there is absolutely no need to feel embarrassed. It was a good question and others may have also not known.
 
fireview2788 said:
Am I right on which bolts I should be looking at?
IIRC, there are also some bolts in the combustor frame to take it apart, and the shipping bolts. That threw me until I looked at it a little closer...
 
But don't take those bolts out of the combustor frame until you are ready to put a new cat in. Just remove those 2 shipping bolts.
 
FWIW - I was disappointed early last season with how black my glass would become - even after a single fire. I think the shoulder season, with more lazy draft, is the major cause (assuming well-seasoned wood). Once it became cold and the draft was strong, very minor issues with dirty glass - just wiped down every couple of weeks (there was a gray haze on the glass after the first week, but no black soot). Cheers!
 
Exactly what I got was a grey haze.


fv
 
Some gray haze seems normal and it comes off really easy. We still like to wad a newspaper and barely wet it just on the end and then touch the ashes. Use that to wipe the glass and it comes off really quick and easy. If you want a super job you can then wipe it down with some windex and paper towel. Sometimes I do that and sometimes I don't.
 
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