Cold Start... After Good Ignition, Cracked or Closed?

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Beave

New Member
Jan 3, 2010
51
Pacific Northwest
Being an after-work burner, I have to cold start the stove on any day other than the weekend. I always leave my door cracked for about 2-5 minutes until I get substantial ignition, but then I over-analyze and wonder if the stove heats quicker with the door closed and lazier flames, or the door cracked which leads to a more aggressive, wind-blown flame. I would think the cracked door and wind blown flame would be hotter, but the door closed would retain heat from a lazier flame better than an open door.

It's hard to nail down, because I have such a hodge-podge collection of wood species in my stack.

I guess the biggest problem is that when starting a cold stove, sometimes you have nothing better to do than think about things like this =)

When my son comes and my wife stops working, maybe I can convince her to just keep the thing running while I'm at work. That, or a 24hr burn time from a BK Princess is sounding more and more appealing..........
 
A fella who was instrumental in our choice of stove a few years ago, told me, "Oxygen is your friend."

Sounds simplistic and obviously logical, doesn't it.

Yet, I have chosen to hang my hat on that simple and obviously basic statement when it comes to lighting a fire.

You see, he's a fella that's been heating his home with a stand-alone wood stove like many in here, for over 30 years!

I watched as he lit up a half dozen stoves in the showroom of the business where he works, and noted that in each case, he'd leave the door cracked a couple of inches, for the first 5 minutes or so. Seemed to make sense to me.

Let the fire get going. Feed it and it will grow.

Obviously YOU NEVER WALK AWAY FROM THE STOVE WHEN THE DOOR IS OPEN, but that said........"Oxygen is your friend!"

-Soupy1957
 
+1 to Soupy's comments-there is not way i am even going to attempt to add to the elegant prose he has posted above...
 
I leave the door cracked until the flames are well established. I agree it does seem to heat up "the box" more quickly with the door closed. It gets either "oxygen" through the door or from the OAK in my case. The air brought in through the primary air intake is heated though and having the door closed does seem to heat things up faster.

That"s my guess but I do not know the right answer?
 
It's unanimous door cracked open. That is how I start all my fires even with coals in the morning.

Brian
 
I agree with the door open, really gets the flames going... BUT, I just got my Rutland thermometer yesterday and noticed it drives the temp of the stove down...Why?
 
James02 said:
I agree with the door open, really gets the flames going... BUT, I just got my Rutland thermometer yesterday and noticed it drives the temp of the stove down...Why?
Probably because the extra cold air rushing in must be traveling past the underside of the stove top on its way up the stack? I can't think of any other mechanism.

And for the record, I start mine with the door closed as soon as light the SuperCedar chunks. Door closed, primary air open all the way, and away she goes.
 
Thanks for the responses. I guess the ideal situation would be I could light the supercedar, close the door and come back in a few minutes. I always set my wristwatch countdown timer before leaving our stove with the damper open, and of course never leave it with the door open.

Ultimately, the end-run on this question is one of politeness. I live on the South side of our neighborhood, and our wind is constantly from the South. During startup I feel bad as I see a plume of smoke roll off our chimney and down into the neighboorhood. To my knowledge, I am the only woodburner in our neighborhood of 20 houses.

I just want smoke combustion as soon as possible. I've never had a complaint and would like to keep it that way. I guess one way I could improve would be to light smaller warm up fires; I usually just pack the stove full of splits, a bit of kindling and a half or quarter supercedar.
 
Beave, one more think that will help you with the fires is to learn what type of wood you have. Some wood is fast lighting and burns hot while others are slower lighting and will still burn hot when they get going good but will also hold fires longer. The quicker lighting and hotter fires usually do not last as long but are good for getting the stove started.
 
Thanks Dennis. That is probably the best advice of all. I'll make sure my future kindling/warm up load is mostly pine or dry pine lumber scraps.

My current wood menu includes pine, fir, cedar, maple, cherry, plum, and homefire logs for overnight burns.
 
You do have some great kindling wood there Beave. Perhaps the best of it is the cedar. If you use the cedar for regular fires, be sure to mix it with the other maple and cherry, etc. That will keep the stove from getting too hot.

One thing we like to do is use soft maple which starts quick and easy and burns hot. Naturally that is our go-to kindling but also when filling the stove, we usually put one or sometimes 2 soft maple splits in front bottom then fill the stove with the harder woods. The maple helps the fire get going nicely and the harder woods holds the fire for longer periods.
 
I always crack the door on a cold start . . . but as mentioned . . . don't wander off.
 
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