Changing over from Single wall to DVL Questions

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jtb51b

Feeling the Heat
Dec 24, 2007
361
Birmingham AL
Ok, I am going to go ahead and change from single wall to double wall for my interior pipe. From the stove I rise a little over 3ft to a 90* elbow, 1 ft horizontal and then into my clean-out tee. From there I go 18' straight up the back wall of the house. This seems to have been working fine but since BK recommends the DVL (And I am STILL having trouble with my stove working poorly) I am going to make the move. Here is the question, should I stay with the 90* or change over to 2 45*'s? The problem is that if I move to 45*'s then the first one will be a good bit closer to the stove than the 36" that the 90* is. Right? So, stay 90 or go 45??? Which way would draw best? If I change to 45's I will also be eliminating the horizontal run before the tee.


Thanks,
Jason
 
I would contact Blaze King and ask them what they think. I would think that the 2 45's would do better for you.
 
I would say 2 45* and no horizontal run would work out the best. The more vertical you can have it, the easier it can flow.
 
I would also try the 45's this time around. I don't think there will be a problem with the first 45 being close to the stovetop. I used to have an Englander add-on furnace, and due to where it sat in the basement it had a 90• elbow 12 inches above the stove. It was Simpson double wall, and there was no problem with overheating, premature failure or other issues.
 
You are all correct, I do believe the 2 45's would flow much better not to mention the removal of the horizontal section. My problem is the proximity of the first 45 to the stovetop. Not because I feel it would burn out, or overheat but BK says 36" before the first elbow. I might give them a call tomorrow, need to anyhow..

Jason
 
For what its worth I would try the 2 45's with the single wall pipe first, I know you might get a better draw with the double wall but the 2 45's might do the trick and save you some money.
 
With the chimney you have I'm surprised you have an issue even with the single wall and 90's. What kind of issues are you having? Low burn issues are the issues I think you'd have if the single wall is cooling too much. Did you ever move the stove away from the wall a couple more inches to meet the 6" requirement?(I think that was you?)
 
I faced much the same problem a few weeks ago. In my old installation (old stove) I had about two feet of rise before the 90-degree turn towards the wall. When the new Princess arrived no way could I get anything close to the three feet BK recommends. My choice was either install the new stove with the same two-foot rise, and a 90; or else do two 45's which would reduce my vertical rise to less than a foot.

I went with the two 45's. Also went with the DVL over my old single-wall stovepipe. Couldn't be happier. The stove works great. Much better draft than with my old setup.
 
With only 4 feet of pipe I can see the 45's helping but not enough pipe to make much difference double vs single.
 
rdust said:
With the chimney you have I'm surprised you have an issue even with the single wall and 90's. What kind of issues are you having? Low burn issues are the issues I think you'd have if the single wall is cooling too much. Did you ever move the stove away from the wall a couple more inches to meet the 6" requirement?(I think that was you?)
Click to expand...

I dont really think its going to fix the problem but I keep hearing the same things so I figured I would cover my bases. The stoves thermostat works only when loading from a cold stove one time. On any reloads I just have to manually set it, and it never opens up to finish the burn with decent heat output. I DID move the stove out from the wall (hence the 1' horizontal run). Not really sure if it made a big difference yet as its not nearly as cold as it could be here.. Now, I also replaced the door gasket (door is welded on crooked so I better get used to that!) and the door gasket DOES seem to be helping but again its not cold yet. SO.. Back to the pipe! I just figured I should do it as well as I possibly could.

Thanks again!

Jason
 
Talked with BK today regarding this. Their recommendation is 2 45's thus eliminating the horizontal run. I will begin ordering some stuff to do this soon, probably will be a royal PITA but we'll see!

Jason
 
jtb51b said:
The stoves thermostat works only when loading from a cold stove one time. On any reloads I just have to manually set it, and it never opens up to finish the burn with decent heat output.
Click to expand...

Is the end of the burn the only issue with the tstat? I often open the thermostat all the way up for the last third of the burn cycle especially if it was prematurely reloaded on the previous cycle.
 
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