13 nc has arrived!

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Hello Rebel! Looks like you've been busy. I hope you have some cooler weather so you can try out your stove when all your work is done...it would be a bear to have to wait until nest fall!

I think that when I built my hearth, I had waited to install the face trim. I can't be sure. But I do remember that I was surprised (relieved) at how easy the grout cleaned up. Just a lot of repetition making sure the sponge is cleaned, you know? So even if you put the cedar on, it seems it would clean easily...unless its rough sawn?? (Mine was hickory and pre-finished)
 
Hello Rebel! Looks like you've been busy. I hope you have some cooler weather so you can try out your stove when all your work is done...it would be a bear to have to wait until nest fall!

I think that when I built my hearth, I had waited to install the face trim. I can't be sure. But I do remember that I was surprised (relieved) at how easy the grout cleaned up. Just a lot of repetition making sure the sponge is cleaned, you know? So even if you put the cedar on, it seems it would clean easily...unless its rough sawn?? (Mine was hickory and pre-finished)

Oh I'm burning it in regardless! I'll cut the ac on 50 and light it up if I have to lol! Reason I ask about the trim is I'm gonna have a small gap between the tile and face board and figured filling it with grout would be the thing to do. Is there anything better I could do? Gonna be around 1/4-1/2 inch gap.
 
If that different materials "transition" tile/face board connection will see any stress (weight, repeated heating and cooling cycles, torsion, etc.) then a "hard" filler such as grout may crack in time. A space as large as yours (1/4 - 1/2 inch gap) will crack in a few weeks.

In other words, "tile to tile" won't crack the grout in between these two tiles. But tile to wood (these materials flex differently) will lead to cracks in a "hard" filler.

You should use a flexible elastomeric filler such as a silicone caulk. Home Depot sells a high-temperature version and it is about $15 a tube, if I recall.

If you can't visualize what I am writing- think of a bathtub.....you can grout the tiles above the bathtub, but only use silicone where the tiles meet the actual bathtub....a tub filled with water can actually "sink" 1/16 th of an inch when you are in it (filled with water). A hard filler such as grout would crack immediately, leaving a space between the tub and the lowest row of wall tile.

Use silicone.....And good luck, fellow Englander 13 owner!
 
If that different materials "transition" tile/face board connection will see any stress (weight, repeated heating and cooling cycles, torsion, etc.) then a "hard" filler such as grout may crack in time. A space as large as yours (1/4 - 1/2 inch gap) will crack in a few weeks.

In other words, "tile to tile" won't crack the grout in between these two tiles. But tile to wood (these materials flex differently) will lead to cracks in a "hard" filler.

You should use a flexible elastomeric filler such as a silicone caulk. Home Depot sells a high-temperature version and it is about $15 a tube, if I recall.

If you can't visualize what I am writing- think of a bathtub.....you can grout the tiles above the bathtub, but only use silicone where the tiles meet the actual bathtub....a tub filled with water can actually "sink" 1/16 th of an inch when you are in it (filled with water). A hard filler such as grout would crack immediately, leaving a space between the tub and the lowest row of wall tile.

Use silicone.....And good luck, fellow Englander 13 owner!

Thanks I sure will
 
+ one to RickBlaine comment on the caulk as a filler to the cedar trim. You may be able to find a color matched caulk to your grout color. Use painters tape to mask the trim if you install it before grouting. Some woods will stain if they get wet so at least one coat of finish on the cedar before it is installed will help prevent that as well.
 
Yes - seal the trim and use painters tape to keep your lines clean. Painters tape while caulking is one of the greatest tricks I have learned to keep clean lines.
 
Lookin' good there Duck! Nice tile choice
 
Lookin' good there Duck! Nice tile choice

Thanks! Grout is done!
image.jpg
 
Last edited by a moderator:
  • Like
Reactions: osagebow
Thinking about a wall shield. Will galvanized metal roofing work guys? I have some 1/2 emt I can cut up for spacers.
 
Yeah - it would work, but not sure on the aesthetics of it. With the color of those tiles a hammered copper look would be fabulous.
 
Hopefully the hearth has enough depth to not need wall shielding. Otherwise, how will you wall shield the window?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.