2014-2015 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

[tarzan]

I've no idea what goes on behind the scenes inside my stove and its thermostat. I just know it's an amazing little monster.

I seem to be figuring out how to deal with the cold weather. When we're home, I turn it up to 2.5 with the fan on and it blows through enough hot air to keep the house warm. If we need to heat up fast, I might run it even hotter. It uses up wood that way but I'm there to reload. At night and when leaving for work, I load it up, char the wood for a few minutes and then set the t-stat down to 2 (with the fan off). That keeps the box from burning down to cold ash. The house may be cool but it's warm enough to get it heated up quick in the morning or when we return home.

This is with temperatures running in the high 20s and low 30s. When it gets even colder, we'll see. But given that I'm still working with fir that's not really well seasoned, I think we'll be fine. Perhaps we'll need compressed wood bricks or dryer, harder wood. However, we're not supplementing and maybe we won't have to.

Good to hear. You may never quite get to the point were you can heat solely with one stove but if not it sounds like you can seriously reduce your heat bill.

What about the smoke smell you were getting. Did you ever figure out a cause or did it just go away?

 

[Parallax]

Good to hear. You may never quite get to the point were you can heat solely with one stove but if not it sounds like you can seriously reduce your heat bill.

What about the smoke smell you were getting. Did you ever figure out a cause or did it just go away?

Thanks for asking. I've got the dealer coming out on Friday to sniff for himself. The wood smoke is still coming off the top of the stove, I assume through the probe hole but maybe there's a defect somewhere. If it is through the probe, Chris' best guess is it's due to lack of draft. How best to deal with that is what we'll discuss. I'm guessing he'll suggest going up another four foot section and figuring out a way to secure it so it can't blow down.

 

[Rossco]

Yeah am still some what confused, I get the same heat running on 1.5 as I do on 2-3. More heat in the firebox rarther than up the flue.

I might try one if these mystical 2.5 burns this week once I go on days off.

 

[tarzan]

Yeah am still some what confused, I get the same heat running on 1.5 as I do on 2-3. More heat in the firebox rarther than up the flue.

I might try one if these mystical 2.5 burns this week once I go on days off.

Not exactly but at 1.5 my stove runs at 400*F and 525*F on 2.5

Again, not exact temps. Just ballpark for reference. That's with the fan running on low.

 

[Gareth96]

18F outside and I think I need to open a window..

 

[BKVP]

You're right. If the stat is slammed shut and preloaded shut by a super low setting then the coil has to overcome that preload before the throttle blade can even move at all. So if you are unable to use the middle range of the stat then you may have never experienced thermosatic stove control.

Highbeam...dead right! Hot load slams blade shut, turning down burn rate rapidly increases amount of time needed by thermostat spring to react and open enough to allows oxygen into firebox... (Whole in blade ring a bell?)

 

[BKVP]

It could be your wood but more likely it's just from reloading the stove before it completes its burn cycle do to the colder weather.

All species of wood have coaling properties...some vastly different than others. Google "coaling properties of firewood".

 

[tarzan]

All species of wood have coaling properties...some vastly different than others. Google "coaling properties of firewood".

I don't get what you are trying to say.

05ramctd stated that he has had a problem with coals "for the last couple of days".

Assuming he is getting his wood from the same stack he was three days ago the one thing I know has changed is it got dam cold!

Also, aware that not even a thief stuck in the chimney could be completely ruled out from where I set, I did start the post by saying "it could be your wood"

 

[drz1050]

It could be gremlins

 

[Shane Collins]

Yeah am still some what confused, I get the same heat running on 1.5 as I do on 2-3. More heat in the firebox rarther than up the flue.

I might try one if these mystical 2.5 burns this week once I go on days off.

Running on 1.5 isn't enough for me. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I make sure the wood is good and charred before I shut it down. Usually after 30ish minutes with the thermostat on 3.5. I tried running it on 1.5 but when I wake up it's usually below 60 in here. The cat is still in the active zone it's just not putting out enough heat. Am I doing something wrong here? I know all houses are different etc but I don't feel the heat output at 1.5 is very high, certainly nothing close to 2.5 or 3.

Even running on 2.5 almost 24/7 I'm getting close to 24 hour burns.

 

[jeff_t]

Yeah am still some what confused, I get the same heat running on 1.5 as I do on 2-3. More heat in the firebox rarther than up the flue.

I might try one if these mystical 2.5 burns this week once I go on days off.

I don't see much difference on my stove top thermometer, which is placed right over the cat. When the cat is at the top end of the active range, I get the same temp whether at 1.5 or 2.5. The difference is when there is active fire in the box at higher settings, the whole stove is making a bunch of heat, especially from the front and heat radiated thru the glass.

 

[Shane Collins]

I'm sure it's been covered before but what stove top thermometers are you using and how do you use that data with a BK?

 

[jeff_t]

Cheap Rutland magnetic, for reference only. I could get along fine without.

It's actually not too bad, reads 50-75° more than my IR at higher temps (600 or more).

 

[Rossco]

Running on 1.5 isn't enough for me. Maybe I'm doing something wrong? I make sure the wood is good and charred before I shut it down. Usually after 30ish minutes with the thermostat on 3.5. I tried running it on 1.5 but when I wake up it's usually below 60 in here. The cat is still in the active zone it's just not putting out enough heat. Am I doing something wrong here? I know all houses are different etc but I don't feel the heat output at 1.5 is very high, certainly nothing close to 2.5 or 3.

Even running on 2.5 almost 24/7 I'm getting close to 24 hour burns.

For me its all about draft and ambient temps. No way IDE get 24hrs on 2.5. I can get it on 1.5 if I push the coal bed.

And you ain't doing nothing wrong. Whatever works for you.

I don't see much difference on my stove top thermometer, which is placed right over the cat. When the cat is at the top end of the active range, I get the same temp whether at 1.5 or 2.5. The difference is when there is active fire in the box at higher settings, the whole stove is making a bunch of heat, especially from the front and heat radiated thru the glass.

Well am confused again, you have Flames in your firebox?

I maybe get flame for the first hour but after that its good night Irene and that's when the CAT takes over for the majority of the burn. What I do is run warm until the outside of the Ultra black gets to a certain temp then choke it off till no flame remains. Then turn it back up to 1.5 and watch the secondary's flame off the CAT. Usually I will get a re-ignition phase but after a while it settles into cruise mode. I pay no attention to the CAT probe after it goes active.

I must add that I still have clean glass and a hot flue. I don't know. Voodoo magic.

 

[jeff_t]

Well am confused again, you have Flames in your firebox?

I maybe get flame for the first hour but after that its good night Irene and that's when the CAT takes over for the majority of the burn. What I do is run warm until the outside of the Ultra black gets to a certain temp then choke it off till no flame remains. Then turn it back up to 1.5 and watch the secondary's flame off the CAT. Usually I will get a re-ignition phase but after a while it settles into cruise mode. I pay no attention to the CAT probe after it goes active.

I must add that I still have clean glass and a hot flue. I don't know. Voodoo magic.

Flames in the firebox? Not usually, but whatever it takes to stay warm.

Last night, I loaded eight oak splits that pretty much filled the firebox. Yeah, they were 'large'. I left a 2-3" gap between the bottom middle splits, and put a split over that gap, to make a bit of a tunnel. It really worked out well, burning from the middle out. It always burns from the middle out, but if I pack it tight, it burns from front to back first. Not the kind of burn that gets me max heat.

That was at 10 pm. Sometime overnight, the wind subsided, and when I got up at six we were at 77° in the living room . I had it at about 2.5, and yes, I still had flames in the firebox at 7. It's about done, and I'm getting ready to throw in some uglies to make it until this evening.

 

[Gareth96]

The manual for the princess says to load it left to right.. I've seen some folks loading front to back. Does front/back help to keep the glass cleaner? Is there a reason for going one way versus the other, other than with front/back if your splits are too long they can expand and push on the glass?

 

[Rossco]

Flames in the firebox? Not usually, but whatever it takes to stay warm.

Last night, I loaded eight oak splits that pretty much filled the firebox. Yeah, they were 'large'. I left a 2-3" gap between the bottom middle splits, and put a split over that gap, to make a bit of a tunnel. It really worked out well, burning from the middle out. It always burns from the middle out, but if I pack it tight, it burns from front to back first. Not the kind of burn that gets me max heat.

That was at 10 pm. Sometime overnight, the wind subsided, and when I got up at six we were at 77° in the living room . I had it at about 2.5, and yes, I still had flames in the firebox at 7. It's about done, and I'm getting ready to throw in some uglies to make it until this evening.

100% not questioning anyone's operation of the BK. You guys do a great job of keeping warm.

Also I exaggerated the "Flame in the firebox" statement. These BK's are ment to burn 30hrs + with black dirty glass

You have some nice OAK to burn and good for you fella. It might take 2 century's to dry but its Stella stuff.

Just in from night shift (I work 2 days, 2 nights then 4 off) Stove just about on, house nice and cosy'ish. Interrogated the wife and she claims to have loaded it @ around 20:00 last night and set it on the south side of 'Norm'. It appears the draft is real good. (I suspect she had it at the top end of the Norm)

Mixture of FIR, Western Larch and some pine.

Temps: About 900 degrees in the basement and about 69F upstairs. I can live with that.

The 69F temp is recorded in the hallway heading towards the bedrooms. It's not a real good indication of house temps.

ADD: It's -17C outside at the moment or 1.3F according to my Highbeam inspired APP

 

[Rossco]

The manual for the princess says to load it left to right.. I've seen some folks loading front to back. Does front/back help to keep the glass cleaner? Is there a reason for going one way versus the other, other than with front/back if your splits are too long they can expand and push on the glass?

Ah. Am a North to South kinda guy.

I always load North to South. I cut in general 16" so the upper wood is about 3-4" away from the glass. I use those pesky 8-10" end cuts to shim the upper wood closer to the glass.

Never heard of wood expanding enough to effect the glass.

 

[jeff_t]

The manual for the princess says to load it left to right.. I've seen some folks loading front to back. Does front/back help to keep the glass cleaner? Is there a reason for going one way versus the other, other than with front/back if your splits are too long they can expand and push on the glass?

Can't imagine why they say that. It is far easier to fill to capacity n/s.

I've seen compressed wood bricks expand, but never cordwood.

 

[Highbeam]

Well maybe they mean left to right instead of outside outside then fill the middle. Perhaps this reduces the unburnt chunks in the bottom corners to just on one side.

I know it is possible but I do not recommend loading any stove sideways. How silly. The logs will just roll out before you can fill it up.

 

[tarzan]

I get active flames at 2.5 but not 1.5

 

[Gareth96]

Yeah, I wondered if they meant load it N/S from left to right vs.. left/right as in load it E/W.. I've kinda done both, since I use a welder glove it's no biggie getting splits to the back.

EDIT: Well on going back and reading it again, sounds like they do mean E/W.. or not?

Operating instructions, page 23.
#7: When nearly all the wood in the firebox is burning , finish loading the stove. Lay the wood left to right, as far to the back of the stove as possible. After the loading door is closed and the catalytic thermometer is in the active zone, close the bypass door.

 

[BKVP]

I don't get what you are trying to say.

05ramctd stated that he has had a problem with coals "for the last couple of days".

Assuming he is getting his wood from the same stack he was three days ago the one thing I know has changed is it got dam cold!

Also, aware that not even a thief stuck in the chimney could be completely ruled out from where I set, I did start the post by saying "it could be your wood"

Tarzan:
Last week a King owner called to say his firebox was so full of coals, he was unable to load much wood. He claimed there were 6" of coals in the stove. So the next morning I cleaned out everything in my own King but some hot chunks from my NIEL's, and loaded about 30 lbs of western larch (tamarack). I set the burn rate at warp factor 3 and left the load to burn away. 6 hours later, the house was 85 degrees, outside 18, I had some pretty hot embers, no coals. I reloaded using 31lbs of black walnut, left the thermostat at warp factor 3 and again kept my hands off the stove. Moisture in both the softwood and hardwood were 14%. Although later in the day and now the house appliances melting, 6 hours into the burn, the firebox a very large chucks of coals. Some wood species have more likelihood to form large coals than others. The specific gravity of cordwood is all part of the ASTM cordwood test method as we attempt to deliver a new method using cordwood and not dimensional lumber.
I get that his stove at one point in time with the same species (stack of wood) performed in one manner and in another point in time, it performed differently. This could be attributable to varying draft (stack effect) as it got colder, varying moisture in load fuel and of course the burn rate (set by the thermostat).
No other inferences intended.
Chris

 

[jeff_t]

Six inches of coals seems normal to me. It's all part of the process. Pull them forward, open the air up, and get a couple more hours of heat. If that's not enough heat, there's other problems besides the way the stove is burning.

I went thru this last winter burning massive oak splits. I found myself burning smaller ash splits and rounds when the weather was brutal. It burned more completely, faster, and I could reload when I needed major heat. That oak would burn forever, but it was major amounts of coals that I had to burn down. I was gonna split the oak down smaller, but the way last night's load went, I may experiment a little more.

This oak has been stacked up for almost five years now. Been thru five summers, anyway. I resplit a couple last night and my HF moisture meter showed 22% in the middle of both, but 10-12% about 4" in from the ends. I guess that averages out to pretty dry.

 

[Shane Collins]

I know every house and situation is different etc etc. But what temperatures are you getting at 1.5?

Tarzan said : "Not exactly but at 1.5 my stove runs at 400*F and 525*F on 2.5"

Any others know what they get at these two settings? I just put 4 big ish splits on as I ran the stove pretty hard last night and just had to reload, still got about a 18 hour burn. I didn't want to fill the firebox I like to do that before bed. Anyway, with 4 pretty large splits I ran it hard for 35 minutes then shut it down to 2.5. Sadly I don't have a stove top thermometer, I'll fix that soon. But my IR gun which only goes up to 300 degrees shows that stovetop near the cat it's a little over 300. I feel my stove top is much colder than others here? These measurements you're taking on top of the cast iron shroud right? not on the actual firebox itself?

I'm very happy and I'm getting long burns and my house is warm but I can't understand why at similar settings I cant seem to get my stove as hot. The cat never stalls, it's working perfect. I can run at 1.5 overnight but id guess the stove top would be closer to 200*F which is nowhere near the 400*f Tarzan and others seem to be getting? Any idea what if anything I'm doing wrong?