2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

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Take the cover off and lube the spring and washers with some copper anti-seize. I just put it on my finger and then turn the dial back and forth.
ok thanks
 
I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
 

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I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
I ran mine last night with a load of more basswood. Flue temp was reading about 250° and the thermostat was between the 3 and 4 o'clock position. The cat was a little over the 4 o'clock position and glowing red. I don't think all these flue probes are bad ones. I just don't think there's much heat going out the stack.
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Take the cover off and lube the spring and washers with some copper anti-seize. I just put it on my finger and then turn the dial back and forth.
I'm brand new to this forum and hope I'm not entering at the wrong place. We recently bought a blaze king ashford 30 and the thermostat will just rotate and doesn't have specific stops. We noticed it as we couldn't keep a fire burning when we closed the load door. Tonight my wife turned it a full turn past 3 and the fire stayed lit. I also notice the rod that the thermostat control knob is on doesn't turn when the knob is turned....shouldn't the rod turn when I turn the control knob?
Your assistance much appreciated!
 
I'm brand new to this forum and hope I'm not entering at the wrong place. We recently bought a blaze king ashford 30 and the thermostat will just rotate and doesn't have specific stops. We noticed it as we couldn't keep a fire burning when we closed the load door. Tonight my wife turned it a full turn past 3 and the fire stayed lit. I also notice the rod that the thermostat control knob is on doesn't turn when the knob is turned....shouldn't the rod turn when I turn the control knob?
Your assistance much appreciated!
The set screw on the knob needs tightened. I takes a small Allen wrench. Tighten it, then turn it to its highest setting then loosen the knob, turn it until it lines up with the highest setting.
 
Hey, am I the only one who find the whole metal shield in front of the cat glowing, every time I leave the stove run on high the recommended 20 - 30 minutes? I haven't seen a glowing cat "guard" in any of the other photos posted. I would think it's just my tall chimney, but I notice the same on my 14 foot chimney, as well.
 
I'm brand new to this forum and hope I'm not entering at the wrong place. We recently bought a blaze king ashford 30 and the thermostat will just rotate and doesn't have specific stops. We noticed it as we couldn't keep a fire burning when we closed the load door. Tonight my wife turned it a full turn past 3 and the fire stayed lit. I also notice the rod that the thermostat control knob is on doesn't turn when the knob is turned....shouldn't the rod turn when I turn the control knob?
Your assistance much appreciated!
Ok....there's a set screw on the rod....tightened, calibrated and fixed!
 
Hey, am I the only one who find the whole metal shield in front of the cat glowing, every time I leave the stove run on high the recommended 20 - 30 minutes? I haven't seen a glowing cat "guard" in any of the other photos posted. I would think it's just my tall chimney, but I notice the same on my 14 foot chimney, as well.

Yep, it'll glow about as bright as the cat after that amount of time.
 
Ok....there's a set screw on the rod....tightened, calibrated and fixed!
It should now point at the 6 o'clock position when on high. Most people will run this stove around the 3 o'clock position the majority of the time.
 
Silly me. I bought a King. Replaced the old Mountain Aire with an 8 inch flue. 1988 I believe. Was too hot most of the winter.

How to move it inside? Needed some muscle. Long way up the hill. Amazing what a few six packs of beer will do.
 

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I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
I installed that same probe 18 inches up. Low burn with cat active I will get 250. Wide open doing a burn in of a fresh load with cat engaged it will get up to 600
 
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@BKVP , what's some normal flue temps at different burn rates?
 
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Hey, am I the only one who find the whole metal shield in front of the cat glowing, every time I leave the stove run on high the recommended 20 - 30 minutes? I haven't seen a glowing cat "guard" in any of the other photos posted. I would think it's just my tall chimney, but I notice the same on my 14 foot chimney, as well.

Definitely normal!
 
I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?
I have been running consistently between 225 and 350 deg temps in my flue about 16" up from the stove collar, the only time I go above 350deg is when the by-pass is open waiting for active range on the cat, or running full blast with the cat engaged for 45min on my weekly burn off's
 
Concerning your flue temperature questions. When I was looking up info on the bk I came across a video on youtube I think? of a cut away stove pipe on a running bk and the guy had his hand inside the stove pipe. I have no idea where that video is but it is out there someplace.
 
@BKVP , what's some normal flue temps at different burn rates?
Your numbers are normal....my King can go a bit lower, around 200....your performance may varying depending upon draft, fuel type and etc., etc.,
 
It is, not sure why it's stiff already

My thermostat knob spring tension gets stiff every year too. It's normal. It still works of course, and the actual thermostat mechanism is not needing lube, just the operating shaft. When you pop off the stat cover (#2 square drive) you will see the points that need lube. I have only used a gun oil since I wanted a runny lube that would get in between the plates but next time I will be taking webby's advice and using the copper antiseize which is sold at auto parts stores and I always have a big bottle of. That stuff will go on like butter and then melt into the layers of metal that need to slide on each other without disassembly.

Oh and the stat cover will be stuck on with a layer of silicone in the back so don't be surprised if it takes some work to remove.
 
I know there was some discussion here a little while back about flue temperatures being very low while the cat probe said active. Out of curiosity I added a flue probe. I also found very low flue temps even though the cat was clearly active. Maybe I have a bad probe too?

Maybe my flue meter is bad and reading high. I can only get it down to 400, maybe 350 before I risk stall. Though mine is a condar.
 
Maybe my flue meter is bad and reading high. I can only get it down to 400, maybe 350 before I risk stall. Though mine is a condar.
I couldn't stall my cat even if I wanted to. I'm always running at lowest setting till it's time to reload. Nothing special about my install either. 15 ft straight up class A, double wall stove pipe, and 15% MC oak
 
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My thermostat knob spring tension gets stiff every year too. It's normal. It still works of course, and the actual thermostat mechanism is not needing lube, just the operating shaft. When you pop off the stat cover (#2 square drive) you will see the points that need lube. I have only used a gun oil since I wanted a runny lube that would get in between the plates but next time I will be taking webby's advice and using the copper antiseize which is sold at auto parts stores and I always have a big bottle of. That stuff will go on like butter and then melt into the layers of metal that need to slide on each other without disassembly.

Oh and the stat cover will be stuck on with a layer of silicone in the back so don't be surprised if it takes some work to remove.
Do you reapply silicone when reinstalling cover?
 
I couldn't stall my cat even if I wanted to. I'm always running at lowest setting till it's time to reload. Nothing special about my install either. 15 ft straight up class A, double wall stove pipe, and 15% MC oak

New cats are more sensitive. Don't be surprised if this changes over the years. My cat is almost new this year and I have been running it way lower this year than I could before but I dare not stall the cat and risk gunking it up. I'm trying to treat this cat nicely.
 
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