2015-2016 Blaze King Performance thread (Everything BK)

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.
Move a few splits indoors for a day, let them warm up....Then you'll have a good reading.
The way I'm reading the chart rdust posted, if you split outside at lower temps, the wood is actually drier than what the meter reads. At room temp the splits would read lower than what you got outside. e.g. if you get a reading of 28% at 20*, the reading at 70* will be 20%.
 
Can't speak for BK or your dealer, but it couldn't hurt to ask both, if you decide to go that way.
Entirely up to the retailer...he/she would have to find a buyer for a used stove.
 
The way I'm reading the chart rdust posted, if you split outside at lower temps, the wood is actually drier than what the meter reads. At room temp the splits would read lower than what you got outside. e.g. if you get a reading of 28% at 20*, the reading at 70* will be 20%.

From the Delmhorst site.
How Does Temperature Affect the Accuracy of Meter Readings?

After moisture content and a moisture gradient, if one exists, wood temperature is the most important factor affecting the accuracy of your readings. As wood temperature increases its electrical resistance decreases and indicated moisture content rises. The lower the temperature, the lower the indicated moisture content. Depending on the temperature and moisture content, you may have to make a correction.

Delmhorst meters are calibrated at 70° F (20° C). In field use, no correction is necessary if the wood temperature is between 50° F and 90° F. If the temperature correction is not built in the meter, use the slide rule or chart we supply with each meter.

The temperature of the wood does not affect pin-less type meters, unless the lumber is frozen.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
To BKVP...

I have a huge issue with these stoves..

IM BORED!!!! Its a dark hot magic box.

Tomorrow will be 4 degrees out, and I will be bored then too..

BTW, just bought a new house, only about a month left with my princess insert. Fireplace at the new place is a prefab so I can't bring my insert with me. :( Looking at an Ashford 30 for next winter though!

Pat
 
Can't speak for BK or your dealer, but it couldn't hurt to ask both, if you decide to go that way.
Entirely up to the retailer...he/she would have to find a buyer for a used stove.
To BKVP...

I have a huge issue with these stoves..

IM BORED!!!! Its a dark hot magic box.

Tomorrow will be 4 degrees out, and I will be bored then too..

BTW, just bought a new house, only about a month left with my princess insert. Fireplace at the new place is a prefab so I can't bring my insert with me. :( Looking at an Ashford 30 for next winter though!

Pat
Come on over...I'll be out back loading my 6.5 x 284 and some hot 38's. That or drink beer. Since I'm flying to Fairbanks on Monday and packing the correct garments is paramount...not too much beer.
 
Entirely up to the retailer...he/she would have to find a buyer for a used stove.

Come on over...I'll be out back loading my 6.5 x 284 and some hot 38's. That or drink beer. Since I'm flying to Fairbanks on Monday and packing the correct garments is paramount...not too much beer.

Were I on that side of the country I would be all over that. I'm so sad about having to leave my bk behind at the old house.
 
I see most people going with the ashford over the scirocco. What is the price difference between these and is the ashford worth the extra money and is it just for looks alone.
 
@Fireflies , I run my stove (Ashford 30) pretty much wide open all the time.

Last year I was running 12-16%MC, mostly full throttle. I got used to the black deposits on the glass - accustomed to it. My retailer did the first annual PM free and cleaned the glass June 2015. I was truly startled by how big the window glass was when I lit the first fire fall of 2015.

It sounds to me like you and the stove and your schedule and your insulation envelope haven't found a rhythm yet.

Your wood is plenty dry. I am thaw then split man myself. I find 48 hours in the garage to thaw out, take back outside to split it open, bring it back inside to measure before it freezes again, I get the same numbers after 48 hours that I get after two weeks of thawing.

Honestly I have never operated a size 20 BK, just my 30, but your descriptions of the deposits on the glass versus throttle settings aren't making my forehead wrinkle.

I have never had the pleasure of burning oak - and then waiting for the coals to burn down- in a cat stove either.

Do you know the degree loss per hour for your house? If you heat up to say +70dF, let the stove go out, turn off the furnace and wait, how long does it take for the temp in your house to drop five degrees?

FWIW my house is 5 star +. To get to six stars I would need $30k in new windows, and I would have to lift the rafters about 18" to fit more blown in cellulose in the attic. From +40dF down to about -10 or -20 dF I lose a fraction of a degree per hour. From -15dFish down to about -35dF or so the curve has some english on it, below about -35dF I lose 5 degrees per hour with all the heaters turned off.

Window upgrade is good, do you have any detectable air leaks around windows or electrical outlets you could mark with chalk now and fix over the summer?
 
Since I'm flying to Fairbanks on Monday and packing the correct garments is paramount...not too much beer.

It hasn't been below -10dF in a month. I'll have a sixer in the snowbank in my backyard if you have time to drop by to check out the solar fire wood kilns. Cold beer outdoors at -20dF and colder is a level of refreshment not suited to girly-men. Bring your own chap stick, flannel lined Carhartt plants, wool socks, a fleece jacket, your ready. Clean underwear if you'll be hobnobbing.
 
Last edited:
The way I'm reading the chart rdust posted, if you split outside at lower temps, the wood is actually drier than what the meter reads. At room temp the splits would read lower than what you got outside. e.g. if you get a reading of 28% at 20*, the reading at 70* will be 20%.


I question the chart. If I stick my Lowes/ Home Depot/ Tractor Supply moisture meter in a chunk of wood at +20dF and see "28%" MC that fool tree had glycol in its tubules.
 
I see most people going with the ashford over the scirocco. What is the price difference between these and is the ashford worth the extra money and is it just for looks alone.

I dunno if you can get a fan kit for the scirocco. Wife liked the looks of the Ashford better. I LOVE LOVE LOVE the factory supplied convection deck with the optional fan kit.
 
Ok, my own personal performance comments. I own a King model in a 2850 sq ft house built in 1895. The stove is 14 years old, as is the cat. R value is about a C-.

After 4 years of burning NIELS, I elected to go back to cordwood. (I still inventory NIELS for my wife as I travel quite a bit. 270 days last year).

Today, I decided to tackle every service/repair we recommend. I HATE that I let the fire go out for the first time in many winters. I let the NG furnace warm the house.

First, I emptied all the ashes and hot coals. Then I slid up the slip joint in my double wall pipe. I reached inside and dropped the flame shield. I pushed on the back of the cat (gently...it is old) from inside through the flue collar and removed the cat. It was a tad bit stubborn...after so many years.

I then unhinged the by pass plate. My King was made before we began using by pass retainers. Turned the plate side ways and slid it out through the combustor opening. The reason I did this was to see how hard it would be to install a replacement by pass plate. While the old plate was out, I dug out the 5/8" rope gasket, it was VERY compressed after 14 years. Took all of 30 seconds to clean out the channel and using high temp silicone, I dropped in a new gasket.

Then, put a new by pass plate into the stove through the combustor opening. First attempt snagged my new gasket, so I had to be a bit more careful on try #2. Turned the plate into the correct position, connected the 3/8" stainless by pass crank rod and lifted the by pass hinge pins into position behind the locators. I then wrapped the combustor with a new gasket and taped it down with 2" wide masking tape. Although I never had any issues, I went ahead and put in the by pass plate retainers. I slid the cat into place, scrubbed the flame shield and put it back into place.

The next step, I replaced the door gasket. I did this 5 years ago and had adjusted it many times, so it was compressed. Backed out the latch bolt, put anti seize on the the threads and set the tension using the grandsons dollar bill. I don't have any because I have grandkids.

I then lathered up the by pass crank rod and ramp with anti seize, set the tension using my 7/16" box wrench and dropped the pipe and got a match. Entire process was 1.5 hours, including a trip to my local stove factory for parts!

Happy to report, no flame, 1047F cat on medium low burn, no smoke out of the stack.

What am I going to do tomorrow?

Is there no cure time required on the new rtv?
 
The way I'm reading the chart rdust posted, if you split outside at lower temps, the wood is actually drier than what the meter reads. At room temp the splits would read lower than what you got outside. e.g. if you get a reading of 28% at 20*, the reading at 70* will be 20%.
You're reading it backwards. See my example above. Wood always reads drier than it really is at cold temperature.
 
I see most people going with the ashford over the scirocco. What is the price difference between these and is the ashford worth the extra money and is it just for looks alone.
They're supposed to be the same stove inside. So, I'm sure there are small differences in factors such as convective coefficient, but it's mostly about the looks.

Ashford lists around $3500 in plain black with no fans, around here. With enamel and fans, it lists around $3900. I don't know who pays list price, but there it is.
 
After lurking on the forums for the past year and learning a lot, I decided on a BK Ashford 30.1 and bought it in November. Finally installed on 1/15 due to factory issues beyond anyone's control, I could not be happier!

Any ideas for converting the existing blower control to a remote control? The stove is in a deep alcove and the blower knob is difficult to reach.
 
I picked up this item to control a couple items. Probably a way over the top tech item but was on sale at HD for $8
 

Attachments

  • DSCN0737.JPG
    DSCN0737.JPG
    110 KB · Views: 271
For two plugs:) Don't tell Brother Bart
 
I ordered a wifi HomeKit enabled plug, now the wife will be able to ask Siri to turn the woodstove blower on and off.

In addition the ceiling fans all have remotes with temperature setting so they activate when rooms get to preset temperatures.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Bioburner
It hasn't been below -10dF in a month. I'll have a sixer in the snowbank in my backyard if you have time to drop by to check out the solar fire wood kilns. Cold beer outdoors at -20dF and colder is a level of refreshment not suited to girly-men. Bring your own chap stick, flannel lined Carhartt plants, wool socks, a fleece jacket, your ready. Clean underwear if you'll be hobnobbing.
TSA is going to love my bag! Beer Popsicles?
 
  • Like
Reactions: Ashful
  • Like
Reactions: Highbeam
The red fluid moves up and down the tube depending on your draft. This one mounts to the pipe so I can constantly monitor my draft on different setting and in different weather conditions.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.