2016-17 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

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I am sure there is some variation by model, on mine the operating rod actually pushes on the ramp adjustment bolt horizontally during the camming event to exert downward pressure on the bypass door

I suggest at least one cold beer just staring at the wonder of it all before adjusting anything.
 
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I suggest at least one cold beer just staring at the wonder of it all before adjusting anything.
What are you doing while the cold beer is staring? If you try to drink the beer, will it be upset that you interrupted its wondering stare? ;)
Sorry, I'm a word and phrasing nerd. Please forgive the interruption. ;em ;lol
 
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Wouldn't that just push it backwards, and therefore lift up the other end? That was kind of the motion i got when I was messing with it and had it out replacing the gasket. Not on top of the bolt pressing down, but a little below the top of it, and pressing back and downward, which made the front want to pop up. I wish there was some video of this action. Honestly, if I asked the kids at the box store where my dealer is, they'd look at me like I was speaking Russian. They don't have a clue, and for me to really figure this out, I'd have to have someone with first hand knowledge of this stoves operation come over and let me know what is really going on. They sell multiple stove manufacturers there, which is just one little area of a box store for cowboys. Ranch and home. Only thing they're good for is ordering parts.
 
Maybe set up an appointment and take the short drive down to Walla Walla and have one of their techs go over the mechanism with you?
 
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The bolt is for tightening or loosening how tight the bypass closes against the gasket if I am not mistaken. Did you mess with that at all? Maybe you should take begreen's advice. I am sure you will figure it out.


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Got a question about burning on super low which is basically a smolder for now in the shoulder season. I've got smoke rolling around, and the cat glowing the whole time. Is it easier on the cat, and possibly prolong the life if I simply open it up a hair more to the point of flames in the box helping the cat out by burning some of the smoke first, and stop it from glowing bright for long periods of time? How do you guys run it on low?
 
Got a question about burning on super low which is basically a smolder for now in the shoulder season. I've got smoke rolling around, and the cat glowing the whole time. Is it easier on the cat, and possibly prolong the life if I simply open it up a hair more to the point of flames in the box helping the cat out by burning some of the smoke first, and stop it from glowing bright for long periods of time? How do you guys run it on low?
Usually, if I have any flame in the stove at all, it's lazy floaters. I usually just snuff it and let the cat eat. If the cat is glowing a medium orange to dull red, I'm happy. If the cat was bright orange, I wouldn't like that....but I don't ever really see that.
 
Run the stove as low as it will go while keeping the cat thermometer in the active region. The beauty of these stoves is they need no babying at all. At the lowest heat output my particulate emission is a measly superclean .35 g/hr so no need to worry about the flue gunking up. Yours will be similar. This is from the manual. If the firebox gunks up just run it for 30 minutes on high at the next reload. Free window washing is included. Enjoy the incandescence.
 
Got a question about burning on super low which is basically a smolder for now in the shoulder season. I've got smoke rolling around, and the cat glowing the whole time. Is it easier on the cat, and possibly prolong the life if I simply open it up a hair more to the point of flames in the box helping the cat out by burning some of the smoke first, and stop it from glowing bright for long periods of time? How do you guys run it on low?
Let me try: glowing won't hurt the cat...
 
Run the stove as low as it will go while keeping the cat thermometer in the active region. The beauty of these stoves is they need no babying at all. At the lowest heat output my particulate emission is a measly superclean .35 g/hr so no need to worry about the flue gunking up. Yours will be similar. This is from the manual. If the firebox gunks up just run it for 30 minutes on high at the next reload. Free window washing is included. Enjoy the incandescence.
This reminds me of how android people can't seem to figure out an apple product. When they get one they just expect it to be difficult like there're last stove. Burn it likes it designed to burn, not like you think it should burn...
 
Got a question about burning on super low which is basically a smolder for now in the shoulder season. I've got smoke rolling around, and the cat glowing the whole time. Is it easier on the cat, and possibly prolong the life if I simply open it up a hair more to the point of flames in the box helping the cat out by burning some of the smoke first, and stop it from glowing bright for long periods of time? How do you guys run it on low?

My advice for running on low or any other setting is to pick a room in your home, decide what temprature you would like it to be in said room, put a thermometer in there and run your stove accordingly.
 
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Hello guys and girls glad to be back on this awesome forum :). Cold is coming and then the temp goes back up lol so im turning the stove up now to burn whatever is left in the box cause the next 5 days we will have mid 70s dyrung the day and mid 50 at night. Think ill take advantage of that and do some pre maintance gaskets changing or should I? Stove is on its third year, the door gasket look good but the glass gasket looks like it is loose, i can push the outer edge is and out with my hand. Also gonna check the bypass and cat gasket.

Any vidoes out thier for doing this?
 
Test the loading door and bypass with a dollar bill. It should be difficult or impossible to pull out. I test the door glass with incense and a mini-mag flashlight at start-up when the draft is good and strong. Apply high temp never seize to the bypass door cam by removing the flue pipe. Dust off the cat with a soft brush or vacuum it if needed. If you remove it the gasket will be ruined so have one on hand . Sweep the flue, if needed.

Did I forget anything?
 
Hello guys and girls glad to be back on this awesome forum :). Cold is coming and then the temp goes back up lol so im turning the stove up now to burn whatever is left in the box cause the next 5 days we will have mid 70s dyrung the day and mid 50 at night. Think ill take advantage of that and do some pre maintance gaskets changing or should I? Stove is on its third year, the door gasket look good but the glass gasket looks like it is loose, i can push the outer edge is and out with my hand. Also gonna check the bypass and cat gasket.

Any vidoes out thier for doing this?

The bummer of the bk door design is that to repair or replace the glass gasket situation, as you should if there is any movement, requires replacement of the door gasket. My glass retaining nuts were very loose and there was a chunk of slag, like a rock, under one of them so it was very much worth checking. I was able to tighten up the glass retainers without removing the glass or its gasket.
 
The bummer of the bk door design is that to repair or replace the glass gasket situation, as you should if there is any movement, requires replacement of the door gasket. My glass retaining nuts were very loose and there was a chunk of slag, like a rock, under one of them so it was very much worth checking. I was able to tighten up the glass retainers without removing the glass or its gasket.

So if if not the glass gakset that needs to be repaced it the tighening of the screws that hold the galls in place? So inorder to get to the glass screws you habe to remove the door gasket? Are the screws in the 4 corners?
 
So if if not the glass gakset that needs to be repaced it the tighening of the screws that hold the galls in place? So inorder to get to the glass screws you habe to remove the door gasket? Are the screws in the 4 corners?

The gasket may be fine, the nuts that squeeze the metal retainers into the gasket/glass sandwich are very likely loose. They are supposed to be hand tight plus a quarter turn. The nuts are spread out, not in the actual corner. Yes, under the door gasket.
 
Less than a month and I can start posting the same questions you guys have probably answered 100 times!

Ok, I will try not to do that. The tile guy comes this week and then our King Parlor will be in the den. Stovepipe is already installed and we cleared out the insulation in the subfloor for the OAK to run through the floor. Replaced the insulation behind the stove with roxul safe and sound.

Going to move a couple of cords of wood into the garage this weekend and the racks are almost ready.
 
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Don't forget the electrical if you want the fan option.
 
Does anybody actually use the ash drawer on the ashford? I find it much easier to shovel it directly into the ash can. In the shoulder season it could be used to make yogurt, sauerkraut or other ferments. I like to handle ashes once then return them to mother earth or let the chickens roll about in them.
 
Does anybody actually use the ash drawer on the ashford? I find it much easier to shovel it directly into the ash can. In the shoulder season it could be used to make yogurt, sauerkraut or other ferments. I like to handle ashes once then return them to mother earth or let the chickens roll about in them.
I used mine and loved it. Only wish it was deeper, but it was sufficient.
 
Does anybody actually use the ash drawer on the ashford? I find it much easier to shovel it directly into the ash can. In the shoulder season it could be used to make yogurt, sauerkraut or other ferments. I like to handle ashes once then return them to mother earth or let the chickens roll about in them.
I use the ash drawers on both my stoves. I curse them every time, since the ash hole is too far back on my early 30.1's, and causes ash and embers to land on the floor behind the pan every time, but I still use it. I couldn't imagine shoveling a stove with hot coals. As it is, I put a floor drain grate in the ash plug hole to rake ash, which keeps the most of the coals in the stove and lets the ash fall thru. I found a grate that's a perfect swap with the ash plug, making for a very quick stove cleaning, if we ignore the time I spend getting ash and embers out from under the stove after each cleaning.
 
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I use the one my ashford 30.0.

Shivel and bucket is qhicker, but using the hole and drawer saves dusting the living room.
 
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I use the one my ashford 30.0.

Shivel and bucket is qhicker, but using the hole and drawer saves dusting the living room.

I also use the ash pan on the princess. It irritates me that the pan is so small when there was plenty of space to make an ash pan big enough to hold much more ash. The reason I use it is the same as poindexter, much less ash floating away into the living room.
 
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Anybody burning NIELs (North Idaho Energy Logs) this year? If so, what is your recommended burning procedure? From another thread I know they will white smoke if you stuff the firebox full of them. Burn time? $1.35 each here.
 
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