2nd set questions with my new 30 new englander

[paguy]

First thanks to the guys that helped me with my new stove. I have figured out my night burns nicely i think. Last night burned it to 500 and shut her down for the night at 12:00. Took my semi seasoned woood and split it to smaller pieces, I actually put in LESS wood then my first night, only took it up to the top of the firebrick, with one large split laying east to west on top. Bumped it down to about 1/4 inch out on the air control and went to bed. Didnt do anything with it till 1100 am, it was burnt down, only had 1-2 inches of coals at most, still 50-50 red and black so Im happy. At 11am I moved the ashes around a bit, thru a split on it and it fired right up. So for now Im happy there.

Lets go to day time burning now. when I get her fired up nicely and want to have a warm burn for day use, do I keep the air control open to the point of the secondary burners are firing or can I damp it down to say 50% to extend burn time? I want it to burn 400-450 all day. When I open it up Im worried my heat is going up and out, just curious what you guys do with the new stoves. Currently I got it at 500 degrees but the air is pretty open, if I shut her down to bout 50% air Im iffy on the secondarys running. Is it THAT important to have a nice fire from the tubes for day time warmth?

Seriously though thanks for helping me figure out my night fire and coal issues. I think Im close to not asking much more questions.

 

[SlyFerret]

If you can figure out how to burn the 30 at 400-450 all day, I'd be interested in knowing how you do that.

I'm starting my second full season (have a season and a half under my belt now) with my 30, and from what I've found... this thing burns great, and throws the heat, but it really only does it one way: hot and clean.

-SF

 

[dave11]

I agree. I have no problem getting the stove to work as advertised now, but I can only get 3-4 hours burn time, plus an hour or two of coals, out of 3-4 decent-sized splits. But I tend to burn it hotter than most others do.

As for the amount of secondary combustion, I have yet to be convinced that the amount coming out of the burn tubes is any sort of measure or goal. There clearly is a lot of secondary burn going on when the air inlet is fully open, at least on my stove, and from what I can tell, closing down the air just switches the majority of combustion from primary to secondary. I can do that to a good amount without lowering the overall temp, which means I should be able to burn longer, but based on my measurements of flue and stove temps, I certainly don't burn any hotter with the air dialed back. In fact, if I shut down the air and see the jets at the top of stove, and take measurements, I find the temps in the stove and flue gradually start to drop.

My approach at this point is to adjust the air first based on stove temp, measured on the sides, which are the hottest on my stove. If they are above 575, I turn down the air no matter what. If they are not, I dial back the air until I see about a 50/50 mixture of yellow (primary) and blue (secondary) flames. This seems to make my stove "cruise" the longest, and leaves me with just fine ashes in the end.

As the fire enters its last stages, I open the air fully.

Curious what others have to say.

 

[SlyFerret]

Yup, I agree. I adjust the air for a good balance of primary flames on the wood itself, and secondary combustion up top.

I would like to add that the secondary combustion in my stove does not only look like flame shooting out of the jets/holes in the burn tubes.

The secondary combustion usually looks like a lazy rolling floating flame in the top six or so inches of the firebox.

I find that running the stove with the air wide open causes lower stove top temps and higher stack temps. Cutting down the air some will actually strengthen my secondaries, raise stovetop temp, and lower stack temp... Until I cut the air too much, then everything starts to die, including the secondaries. I never push the air control lever all the way in. If I had to guess, it's always open about 25% or so.

-SF

 

[fbelec]

not trying to hijack the thread, but this might help out paguy also. what would you say is hotter stove top temps yellow flame or blue flame. i was always told blue flame is a hotter and cleaner flame. and doesn't get any hotter than white flames.

 

[Crabby]

This is my first season with burning in my 30. It's taken me a week now to get it somewhat figured out. I really love the heat out put, i am using a lot less wood. i only put 4 nice spits and and let it go. My glass was pretty brown on the bottom corners and it's about gone. I know the old stove i had i could load it up with a lot more than four splits and get the same burn times or less. with burning that hot (550 on top) its about 4 hours. but the thing i like about it is the stove holds heat like no other when the fire is out and just coals. I did do something wrong yesterday, i had a good hot fire before i went to church so i was afraid it was going to get to hot before i left so i damperd it down to much and came home and the class was foggy. it's almost clean now. It does take some getting used to. I was beginning to wonder if i got the wrong stove and should have kept my old one. but now i am glad i bought it. keeps my house so much more warmer.

 

[paguy]

Well,

Found another error with my operations. I kept "reaching" for the magic 5-550 burn temps and had a hell of a time getting there and sustaining was dam near impossible, wrote it off as bad wood.

Went to the store today and picked up a new magnetic thermometer, threw it on there and when I was thinking I had a steady 400 degree temp, with the new thermometer I was cruising 525-550. Needless to say Im glad I spent 20 bucks on a new thermometer. It should make operating it easier now.

Good info here, thanks for the help.