30 starving for air?

Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by bluedogz, Feb 19, 2012.

  1. bluedogz

    bluedogz
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    So, when I moved the 30 I had (what I thought was) the good sense to take the firebricks out, knowing there was a diagram in the manuals to put them back in whatever order they came out.

    On installing it, I found that no matter how hard I tried, I ended up with a gap at the front of the floor that was less than the required 2 1/2" for a standard brick AND I had 2 bricks left over that evidently should go there AND there were no other narrower bricks anywhere else in the stove.

    So, I just sort of leaned those bricks in place as far as they would go, in the gap to either side of the doghouse.

    Now, I can cut these bricks down to make them fit... not worried about that.

    Two burns have indicated this may have messed up the airflow, since if I shut the door fully, even with the air 100% open, the flames die out and temp starts to drop. If I crack it open 1", kaboom, everything flames and temp rises.

    Am I reading this right?
     
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  2. bluedogz

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    To clarify: similar problem as described here: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/60911/

    Actually, reads just like this situation: http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/43191/P0/

    Oh, and prev. owner had OAK installed, which I don't use. Do I need to block off that intake somehow?

    Since someone will ask:
    - flue is recently-installed 6" insulted flex, 25' high, with a cap.
    - doesn't a seem to be a neg. pressure problem; opening nearby door has no effect.
    - wood is 2-year seasoned BL, reads 15-19% on HF MM.
    - have not checked primary air intake (because I don't know where it is... :red: )
     
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  3. blwncrewchief

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    blue, I don't have a 30 but on my stove the very front 2 bricks have to be put in before the bricks further back because they actually slide under the steel lip inside the door opening. I took a quick look at the 30 brick diagram and as long as you put the bottom bricks in before the sides and the rear, since the sides and rear sit on top of the bottom bricks, this is all I can think of. Also make sure the rear bottom bricks are slid all the way to the back of the actual firebox past the steel air riser in the middle back. Good luck and hopefully someone with a 30 can chime in and pinpoint the issue.
     
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  4. bluedogz

    bluedogz
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    Ah, never thought of that... when she cools down I'll rearrange 'em.
     
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  5. Hogwildz

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    The pics in the other thread look like a goof flame? Is the door open in those pics?
     
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  6. DanCorcoran

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    New term...what's a "goof" flame?
     
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  7. bluedogz

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    Yeah, door is open in the pics.

    Thanks for covering the smarta$$ angle, Dan...
     
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  8. rdust

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    Page 10 of the owners manual shows the layout. owners manual

    Also BL can be hard to start, either split it smaller or try a softer wood to get a good coal base going.
     
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  9. bluedogz

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    Multiple people have said that at various times... I burn almost exclusively black locust (I have 4.5 acres of it) and have never had this fabled trouble starting.

    OTOH, maybe I AM having trouble starting and just don't know it because I've never burned anything else...
     
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  10. Hogwildz

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    Did you check the doghouse and air intake areas for blockage, ash build up etc?
    I know it hasn't been that long, but did you look at the cap to make sure it ain't clogged?
    Pipe to stove connection fairly tight? So the air intake ain't competing with it?
    How hot is the stove getting?
    Is it only when cold or e4ven when up to temp?
    25' of liner should be pulling a good draft.
    Throw some lumber in there and see what happens.

    Oh, and I meant good draft, doh...
     
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  11. BrotherBart

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    Leave the door cracked until the draft pulls the smoke out of the firebox when you close the door. Every person that has been used to a pre-EPA stove and gets a new one comes with the same complaint. That the fire dies down when they close the door. Your old stove shot air straight through the hole in the front into the fire. The new stove has to drag the air from the bottom back of the stove all the way to the front and then up and then back down the glass into the fire. A long trip that requires a strong draft to pull it through.
     
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  12. bluedogz

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    Well, that makes all kinds of sense! Probably shoulda thought of that...

    I was concerned I has &$#ed something up moving the bricks...
     
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  13. begreen

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    Did you get the brick set in correctly?
     

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  14. rdust

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    x2, you took the words right out of my mouth!
     
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  15. bluedogz

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    Haven't redone the bricks yet b/c it's been burning all day... that's tomorrow's project.
     
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