A little frustrated here!

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Fatherof2

Member
Aug 12, 2014
53
Massachusetts
So I am trying to install my Pellet Stove in my basement.

It seems like a pretty easy install. It is a simple up and out situation. My foundation is about 3 feet high on the back of my house. I was going to run the pipe up about 4 feet and straight out thru the wall and siding. I have all the piping etc.

I called the Town Hall to ask about pulling a permit. I thought that I could do that and then have the inspector come out and give me his blessing. The woman at the Town Hall became difficult. It was almost like I was talking to an installer. Like she had an ax to grind. She is telling me that if something goes wrong, I may not be covered by my insurance. I said I thought that was the point of having the inspector come out for his approval after the install. She says that is not how it works. She said I need to have the installer do it so that he will be liable if something goes wrong. So I ask her how an insurance company is supposed to track down the installer who might or might not be around anymore. Am I supposed to keep track of him. It really became annoying. I wanted to lose my temper, but refrained.

What is the deal here. I don't want to spend 500 bucks to have it installed. Do I have a choice?

I have read a bunch of stuff on here, and it seems like I have one of the easier installs to do. I need to cut a round hole in a piece of plywood and the siding, and then run the pipe up and out. There is cement all around the stove. Please see the below picture of my sump pump. I was going to do the same thing with the stove.

I don't know................any thoughts?

Thanks for any input!

 
Did you ask if a permit was required? My area is do it to code or per manufactures instructions and no inspector needed. Ask you insurance agent too. Mine took a couple pictures and looked at the install directions and put into my file.
 
Every area is different, but you should be able to do your own install. That being said to have compliance for insurance and town the install must be to the specs regarding length of run, flue size, and clearances which should be included in the stove's manual. Your install does seem simple, T out of the back, 3 foot verticle, 90 degree elbow, 3 foot out horizontal through a thimble. EVL of 14.5ft which is .5ft below the max. If you have 3 foot clearance from the ground after that you should be solid in my estimation, but like I said, check your manual.
 
I had an installer do mine. While a permit is required, he didn't pull it until after the installation was finished.
 
You need to ask what the town requires. Ignore her insurance comments only your insurer can tell you what is required.
 
Get all the facts from your insurer first is my advice.
 
On another subject looking at you picture. Do you have exposed foundation concrete walls in your basement? If so, it will suck the heat like no tomorrow without insulation. Just wanted to give you a heads up.
 
I put a call into my insurance company. They are checking and will call me back.

Tony,...................what you see is what I got. Exposed foundation for sure. Basement is not finished. Not expecting to heat the house here. Just want to be able to warm up my workshop / work out area.

P.S. I called an installer today. He said he wont install used pipe. I bought my stove and pipe on Craigslist for 450 bucks.

Hope I'm not going to regret trying to pull this off!
 
im in Norton Ma and i did my own install.i went to the town hall and told them my plans to install a pellet stove.(install was already done)they gave me a packet of paperwork to fill out which i submitted the same day and inspector came out 2 days later to inspect.easypeasy.what town are you in.
 
You will be fine then for your workshop. Whole house another issue all together. My insurance company preferred a licensed installer and they would/did not raise my rates. Pictures of the install and following all manufacturer recommendations. I did not have to get a permit where I live as the vents were straight out and less emissions than a typical wood stove.
 
I put a call into my insurance company. They are checking and will call me back.

Tony,...................what you see is what I got. Exposed foundation for sure. Basement is not finished. Not expecting to heat the house here. Just want to be able to warm up my workshop / work out area.

P.S. I called an installer today. He said he wont install used pipe. I bought my stove and pipe on Craigslist for 450 bucks.

Hope I'm not going to regret trying to pull this off!
That much new pipe won't set you back too much extra dough. My only comment would be that your insurer will probably provide a checklist to the broker for you to complete. I had to do so with my install. That checklist may also inquire about annual professional cleaning etc. Mostly they're concerned with clearances to combustibles and other code items as described by other folks posting here. Good luck.
 
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Corkman, thanks for your input. Encouraging to hear that you did it yourself. I am going to give it a shot. I live in North Andover.

I spoke to an installer. He wont install used pipe, so that is out. I have all the pipe which I have cleaned out with compressed air. It is in great condition.

I spoke to the insurance company. I have to fill out a form that they sent me, and make sure that I am within the following specs. There is no mention of how high above the ground the exhaust pipe must be on the outside. Nothing about distance from windows or doors etc. Luckily there is not much in the way on the outside of the house.

upload_2014-9-24_10-14-12.png

Based on the above and being that this is going in the basement, I think I should be good to go.

My only other question at this time is this.................my wall thimble is too think. I have read posts about guys with the opposite problem due to walls being too think.

The wall where I am going to put the pipe is nothing more than one piece of plywood with vinyl siding on the outside. (See the above picture.)

The inside wall thimble plate will have nothing to fasten to. Do I need to make some kind of frame to fasten to the wall studs so that I can nail the inside wall thimble to it?

Just worried that if the building inspector is as difficult as the girl on the phone at the town hall was............I could be in trouble.

Thanks for any input!!
 
Making a simple box frame from a 2x4 should work to give the extra thickness and Support I would think and a cost of less than $3.
 
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Making a simple box frame from a 2x4 should work to give the extra thickness and Support I would think and a cost of less than $3.
That's what I thinking Bioburner.
 
Support being a key component of the problem. Don't want things to fall and vent into house accidently.
 
Corkman, thanks for your input. Encouraging to hear that you did it yourself. I am going to give it a shot. I live in North Andover.

I spoke to an installer. He wont install used pipe, so that is out. I have all the pipe which I have cleaned out with compressed air. It is in great condition.

I spoke to the insurance company. I have to fill out a form that they sent me, and make sure that I am within the following specs. There is no mention of how high above the ground the exhaust pipe must be on the outside. Nothing about distance from windows or doors etc. Luckily there is not much in the way on the outside of the house.

View attachment 139350

Based on the above and being that this is going in the basement, I think I should be good to go.

My only other question at this time is this.................my wall thimble is too think. I have read posts about guys with the opposite problem due to walls being too think.

The wall where I am going to put the pipe is nothing more than one piece of plywood with vinyl siding on the outside. (See the above picture.)

The inside wall thimble plate will have nothing to fasten to. Do I need to make some kind of frame to fasten to the wall studs so that I can nail the inside wall thimble to it?

Just worried that if the building inspector is as difficult as the girl on the phone at the town hall was............I could be in trouble.

Thanks for any input!!
Must be at least 12" off the ground outside. Cannot terminate vent under a window or door. Must be at least 4' from window or door at vent termination point.
 
I called an installer today. He said he wont install used pipe.

Don't be disappointed by his statement. Unlike for a woodstove, the PL venting pipe is quite inexpensive new, and it is also under positive operating pressure. That means every seam is a potential leak and likely callback, and therefore his worst nightmare.

You can reuse PL vent. Just be extra thorough inspecting it, and then don't be cheap with the HT silicone on every joint you don't plan on removing. Then put HT metal tape on every joint. I know it don't look good, it's the basement, who cares?

My other question is about the "too long" thimble. I assume you will be installing a 5/8 sheet of sheetrock behind the stove location? If not, you should.

The stud walls should be fully insulated and a 4x4 piece of sheetrock should cover that to the cieling. The thimble is then mounted normally. The ceiling area over the vent pipe & stove should also get a piece of sheetrock secured. You need this to retain anything (like that paper backed insulation I see) from falling onto the vent or stove.

Last point: place the stove on 4" or 6" blocks, not on the concrete floor. One day your sump pump, or washing machine, or something watery is going to fail and those 4" are going to make your wife finally realize You Are A Genius. ::-)

That's what I'm going for anyway. Still hopeful.
 
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