Has anyone installed a shower into a full tub that currently doesn't have one? What are the options?
Adding Shower to Full Tub
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Dr.Faustus
Minister of Fire
A lot of it depends. I've remodeled 3 bathrooms so far. if the full tub is already against 3 walls and there is a surround or tile then its just a matter of gaining access to the valve body. you either change it out with one that has a shower or if you're lucky yours already has a valve body with a shower and its just got a plug on that outlet. you remove the plug and plumb in the shower part.
Gaining access is usually a pain. a lot of times you have to remove the drywall from a section of the room adjacent to the shower. If you're lucky (I was just 1 time) the adjacent room was a bedroom closet and the installer had an access panel there.
If your tub is against walls but there is no surround or tile (drywall) you have to add one. I like surrounds. they seal better and easier to clean.
If your tub is not surrounded by walls (like a clawfoot in the middle of a room) you can still do it but you need a wrap around shower curtain among other hardware that might be hard to find.
Gaining access is usually a pain. a lot of times you have to remove the drywall from a section of the room adjacent to the shower. If you're lucky (I was just 1 time) the adjacent room was a bedroom closet and the installer had an access panel there.
If your tub is against walls but there is no surround or tile (drywall) you have to add one. I like surrounds. they seal better and easier to clean.
If your tub is not surrounded by walls (like a clawfoot in the middle of a room) you can still do it but you need a wrap around shower curtain among other hardware that might be hard to find.
One solution is to change the tub spout to a diverter spout and extend the spout pipe up to then shower head.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
Just remember that when you put the walls back up...don't use drywall. Use a cement board product.
I just tore out a shower stall that was installed over drywall. That explained why the wall was rotten and bowed out.
Don't be afraid to demo the area completely to the studs. It is often much easier to start over than to patch and fix an area.
Have you thought about tearing out the tub and putting in a regular shower? It might not be much more work or expense.
I just tore out a shower stall that was installed over drywall. That explained why the wall was rotten and bowed out.
Don't be afraid to demo the area completely to the studs. It is often much easier to start over than to patch and fix an area.
Have you thought about tearing out the tub and putting in a regular shower? It might not be much more work or expense.
The tub is surrounded by tile on three wall up yo 6'. At the foot is a raised square box with a copper lining for plants, this wall abuts the patio and has a window of light filtering glass blocks.
The other walls are the family room and laundry room, (where the fixture is). I have access from behind the fixture wall. Complete demo is unlikely.
The other walls are the family room and laundry room, (where the fixture is). I have access from behind the fixture wall. Complete demo is unlikely.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
The real question is....what's the budget?
Doing it, or having someone do it is easy...if you have a decent budget.
It would be quite difficult to install a shower without damaging the tiles. To get behind that wall, you will have to remove some of them vertically, and then create a shower head support bracket (2x4 cross member). You'll have to remove quite a few tiles to do that. If they get damaged, good luck finding an exact replacement regardless of color.
Doing it, or having someone do it is easy...if you have a decent budget.
It would be quite difficult to install a shower without damaging the tiles. To get behind that wall, you will have to remove some of them vertically, and then create a shower head support bracket (2x4 cross member). You'll have to remove quite a few tiles to do that. If they get damaged, good luck finding an exact replacement regardless of color.
Did I mention I have access to the wall from behind where the fixtures are, from floor to ceiling
Dr.Faustus
Minister of Fire
You're all set to do this. shouldn't be too bad. Its already all tiled. From behind the fixture you open the wall to get at it. from in the tub you remove the faucets and tub spout. the tub spout unscrews. the handles probably have a small allen screw to get them off. then from behind, you remove the valve body. The new fixture will need a third hole in between the hot and cold handles to divert the water. should some with a template to make the hole. in the past I used a tile drill bit to make a bunch of little holes around the outline and just knock the hole out.
a pipe will need to go up from the valve body to deliver water to the shower head and will need a cross member to support it. a piece of 2x4 is fine. the worst part of this project at least for me it usually repairing the drywall on the backside of the wall. when everything is all installed and working, leave the wall open for a few days and make sure you have no leaks at all before you put the wall back up.
Then you just need either sliding glass doors or a tension rod with curtain. I've installed both and neither was too difficult.
Showers never gave me much trouble, just take your time. For all 3 bathrooms the worst parts were always the toilet flange being too low after the new floor and the new tub drains which always seem to have poor access from below.
a pipe will need to go up from the valve body to deliver water to the shower head and will need a cross member to support it. a piece of 2x4 is fine. the worst part of this project at least for me it usually repairing the drywall on the backside of the wall. when everything is all installed and working, leave the wall open for a few days and make sure you have no leaks at all before you put the wall back up.
Then you just need either sliding glass doors or a tension rod with curtain. I've installed both and neither was too difficult.
Showers never gave me much trouble, just take your time. For all 3 bathrooms the worst parts were always the toilet flange being too low after the new floor and the new tub drains which always seem to have poor access from below.
Thanks Dr. It seems awkward to have an enclosure that high off the ground. Also, the nearest wall to support a pole is that glass block window, that would take the curtain across the top of the sink area. A bendable rod ending in that far corner would be an option.
Dr.Faustus
Minister of Fire
Oh I see from the picture now... there is not 3 walls on the tub, just 2 then you have that feature thing on the end there... Yeah a wrap around curtain on a track if you can fine one.
If it were me I would go with sliding glass doors, and see if I could special order glass to go in between the feature and the glass doors. if not I think I would just build that wall, tile it up and then add the sliders. its not abnormal to put sliders on a bath tub. they rest on the lip of the tub. you use caulk on the bottom and screw the sides into the wall while trying to keep it square so the doors slide ok.
If it were me I would go with sliding glass doors, and see if I could special order glass to go in between the feature and the glass doors. if not I think I would just build that wall, tile it up and then add the sliders. its not abnormal to put sliders on a bath tub. they rest on the lip of the tub. you use caulk on the bottom and screw the sides into the wall while trying to keep it square so the doors slide ok.
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