Advice on installing NC-30

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I got my NC-30 last spring at a good price.

Now it's getting time to actually move it from the garage and hook 'er up for the winter.

Attached you'll see a photo of the corner I would like to install it in. My thoughts are to:

1) abandon the fireplace opening by bricking it closed.

2) knock out the hearth step with a sledge

3) remove the wood panel wall that forms the corner and replace with a steel-studded wall and Dura-rock backerboard

4) cover over the fireplace and Dura-rock with drywall mud & paint.

5) remove carpet tiles to expose an area of concrete to accomodate the stove.

6) connect NC-30 to the 6" opening to the upper left corner from the fireplace. This flue was used for the previous boiler and I believe is already lined (I'll verify before burning). I will also cover over the 3" opening above the 6", that was used for the previous gas water heater (same flue).


If necessary I will remove all the ceiling tile including that doo-hicky ledge that the flintlock is hanging on. This is in my basement. My long-range hope is to insulate the rest of the cynder block wall and finish it to look like Fockverk using drywall mud as stucco and a few appropriately placed timbers.

I'm afraid of what I will encounter while busting up that hearth step. After removing it will I find more cynder block behind it? Or will I find that I've just busted up the lowest part of my foundation?
Will painted drywall mud be OK behind the woodstove if it is placed on non-combustable surfaces? Or is drywall mud itself combustable?

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

Oh. I should mention that the large white hole in the wood-panel wall is where the old boiler flue used to pass through (previous owners not me). You can see my current boiler just on the other side of the wall (that's the white thing). The boiler is direct vent so I no longer need the flue.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

No advice? No suggestions?

 

[ScotO]

the first and most important step you need to do is make sure you read your appliances' installation instructions over and over again to know the basics and the important clearances you need to make provisions for....I am installing my NZ3000 this week and have been beating my head on the ground trying to find out some clearances for hot air pipe and after extensive research I think I have the info I needed...just make sure this project is in within your abilities before you go forward with it...I know my fireplace needs a ceiling height of AT LEAST 84", does your basement have that clearance?.....just make sure you read read read all the details because you do NOT want to lose your house or worse ANYONE'S LIFE because of an improper installation....good luck and keep us posted.....this site is a WEALTH of information!

 

[begreen]

I'm wondering about whether it is necessary to remove the left side wall wood paneling? It looks like there is room to honor the stove clearance requirement of 20". Or do you mean removing the wood clad soffit above the fireplace? My main concern is with the piping clearances. Even with double-wall connector you will need to maintain a minimum of 8" from the ceiling and 6" from the side wall. The question is, what is that soffit covering?

Before you start, be sure to confirm that old boiler flue is: a) a dedicated flue b) in good condition c) sized correctly for the stove. If the boiler flue is compromised, also check whether you could tap into the fireplace flue above the damper and then add a proper stainless liner to connect the stove.

From what I see, I wouldn't be too worried about removing the hearth step. I doubt it's solid based on the fact that the intake ducts for the heatilator are located in it.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

My intention for removing the wood-pannel is to A) fix the butt-ugly hole from the previous boiler pipe and B) make a non-combustable wall allowing me to tuck the stove as tighly into the corner as possible.

I figured that I could address any clearances to the stove pipe by upgrading the pipe to Class A if need be.

That soffit does nothing more than hide the hot water distribution pipes with hang below the level of the joists. I would not hesitate to remove the soffit and entire ceiling. I have no love for finished ceilings in basements.

 

[Danno77]

And you can't just set the stove part in and part out of the fireplace?

 

[Danno77]

And you can't just set the stove part in and part out of the fireplace?

Orrr, knock off the hearth, build up a new one to code, and vent up the fireplace's chimney.

 

[begreen]

My intention for removing the wood-pannel is to A) fix the butt-ugly hole from the previous boiler pipe and B) make a non-combustable wall allowing me to tuck the stove as tighly into the corner as possible.

I figured that I could address any clearances to the stove pipe by upgrading the pipe to Class A if need be.

That soffit does nothing more than hide the hot water distribution pipes with hang below the level of the joists. I would not hesitate to remove the soffit and entire ceiling. I have no love for finished ceilings in basements.

Another option instead of tearing out the paneling, an NFPA wall shield could be attached to the wood paneled wall with 1" spacers. However, if you don't like the paneling, then your plan will work too.

Class A is not for connector pipe. There would be several problems using it here like adapting it to the stove and thimble. And there are no 90 or even 45 deg elbows made for classA. The best solution is to use double-wall connector pipe like Duravent DVL.

 

[Black Jaque Janaviac]

I don't know Danno. I think the stove is a tad too tall for the fireplace opening - unless I cut the legs down. I'll haul out the tape measure . . .

But then won't I lose some efficiency by having it tucked away in the fireplace? I thought the idea of having a freestanding stove was to bring it out to maximize convection currents and use all that heat.