Air Control Valve Hard to move on Jotul 600 Firelight

snowfreak Posted By snowfreak, Nov 12, 2006 at 1:28 PM

  1. SPED

    New Member

    Dec 31, 2007
    Tom I'm gonna call this morning I'll let you know what they say. I did take a look at it last night once it cooled down. It's only that one spot coming back from no air where it pushes and binds, seems like a slider handle that rides with the air control would be a better idea vs the lever, but I guess harder to keep air tight.

    It really amazes me that something so simple can cause such problems. I have a lot of slop where that slider goes.

    What kind of grease did you use and where can i pick some up?
  2. quinn

    New Member

    Feb 6, 2008
    Southeastern BC, Canada
    Hey Sped,

    I bought the high temp grease at the local hardware store for 10 or 15 bucks. Apparently it is good up to 1500 degrees and I have to reapply it every couple months. It definitely helps and I would like to get the problem solved so I am waiting with baited breath to hear what you learn from your dealer.
  3. jbrown56

    Feeling the Heat

    Oct 18, 2007
    bedford nh
    Snow, See my post at "Jotul Damper Control"
  4. begreen

    Staff Member

    Nov 18, 2005
    South Puget Sound, WA
    SPED, get to the dealer and insist on a new control arm. This is an easy fix with the new part.

    PS: Do you have the stove hooked up to the new pipe or the old chimney? How is is working other than the sticky air control?
  5. mtneer


    Mar 29, 2011
    huntington, wv
    I guess this is still a problem. My 2011 Firelight was installed two months ago. I've just done the break-in fires and my first real one over the weekend. Sometimes the damper moves at the slightest touch, other times it is stuck. Outrageous for a stove that costs this much. Calling the dealer today.
  6. regularGuy

    New Member

    Oct 11, 2014
    Rhode Islan
    Hey Folks, I combined a lot of the info here to get my Jotul F500 air valve to work properly. Mine was sticking, and caused the valve to actually jump out of the track. I didn't like the thought of grease because I thought it might gum things up, and didn't want to reapply. My solution was to take out the valve and sand it, and the channel in the stove, with 100 grit paper, just a little. I sanded it in the same direction it needs to slide. I put graphite on the stove channel everywhere the valve makes contact with it, and rubbed it on the bottom of the valve. The graphite I got from a local hardware store says "contains crystalline silica and graphite". From what I could find on the internet, graphite melts at 600F or so, and the silica melts at over 4000 degrees F. Seems to work great, just need to see if it will stand the test of time and heat.

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