American harvest keeps shutting off

[Kasarver2015]

Hi we got a used american harvest multifuel furnace for our house. It was working really well, producing alot of heat and we would have to turn it off to let the house cool back down. We were trying to adjust things on it and now it will run for 20-40 minutes and then shut down with err-2. It has plenty of pellets in the hopper. We have no idea how to get it to stay running. We put all settings back to what they were. It a 4 button panel

 

[ARC]

american harvest multifuel furnace

What model number? US Stove named alot of their stoves American Harvest, Multi stoves 6039 and 6041 Furnace 6100 and 6500 and maybe a few more.

shut down with err-2

Err 2 can also be Vacuum problem.

Do a complete cleaning of stove including all venting/pipe

Check the door gasket shut a dollar bill in door and try pulling it out there should be resistance do this all around the door.

If your Model has a vacuum switch check the rubber hose going from switch to stove for cracks and it see if it is plugged with soot also check the metal nipple were it attaches to stove to see if it is plugged.

Check the hopper gasket if your model has one, sometimes pellets or pellet pieces get embedded in the gasket material. Note not all models have gasket seals.

Vacuum switch itself could be bad, if all the other measure do not correct the err 2 then you might have to replace switch.

Note to see if the err 2 is a vacuum problem you can "jump" your vacuum safety switch. Unplug your stove locate vacuum safety switch unhook both wires from switch and connect both ends to each other, you can make a jumper wire with two male spades and a piece of wire or use a paper clip. Make sure these wires are not touching anything or better yet cover them with electric tape. Plug stove back in and try to light/run. If stove works then you know it is a vacuum problem and should be able to solve with one of the above measures. Jumping the switch is only for testing purposes not a fix.

 

[Kasarver2015]

What model number? US Stove named alot of their stoves American Harvest, Multi stoves 6039 and 6041 Furnace 6100 and 6500 and maybe a few more.



Err 2 can also be Vacuum problem.

Do a complete cleaning of stove including all venting/pipe

Check the door gasket shut a dollar bill in door and try pulling it out there should be resistance do this all around the door.

If your Model has a vacuum switch check the rubber hose going from switch to stove for cracks and it see if it is plugged with soot also check the metal nipple were it attaches to stove to see if it is plugged.

Check the hopper gasket if your model has one, sometimes pellets or pellet pieces get embedded in the gasket material. Note not all models have gasket seals.

Vacuum switch itself could be bad, if all the other measure do not correct the err 2 then you might have to replace switch.

Note to see if the err 2 is a vacuum problem you can "jump" your vacuum safety switch. Unplug your stove locate vacuum safety switch unhook both wires from switch and connect both ends to each other, you can make a jumper wire with two male spades and a piece of wire or use a paper clip. Make sure these wires are not touching anything or better yet cover them with electric tape. Plug stove back in and try to light/run. If stove works then you know it is a vacuum problem and should be able to solve with one of the above measures. Jumping the switch is only for testing purposes not a fix.

View attachment 270526

I believe it's a 6100 but will have to check when I get home

 

[SidecarFlip]

Sounds to me like it's filthy inside and the venting is filthy as well and I'd add a remote thermostat to it. On the board, there will be a pair of connector terminals next to the line in terminals. Remove the jumper and add a thermostat. Not a fancy one either, just the basic digital (under 20 bucks) no set back T'stat and locate it in another room, away from the unit and run a twisted pair thermostat cable (available at your local big box store or hardware store).

They all have to be cleaned regularly, like weekly.

Be sure to unplug the unit from line power before fiddling with the board. The board is line voltage and it will exterminate you if you get in contact with the wrong terminals and or fry the components if you short something.

Error 2 is a vacuum error as well as a draft fan error and most likely caused by clogged up (from fly ash) venting or loaded baffles with fly ash. Shop vac time (after it's cooled off of course).

 

[SidecarFlip]

Hi we got a used american harvest multifuel furnace for our house. It was working really well, producing alot of heat and we would have to turn it off to let the house cool back down. We were trying to adjust things on it and now it will run for 20-40 minutes and then shut down with err-2. It has plenty of pellets in the hopper. We have no idea how to get it to stay running. We put all settings back to what they were. It a 4 button panel

So tell me, how did you put the settings back to 'normal'??? Just curious what you did and how you did it? I know how, not sure you know how in as much as you lack the basic knowledge of what Err2 denotes.

 

[ARC]

I believe it's a 6100 but will have to check when I get home

Here is your operator manual and the tech manual. The operator manual does not mention vacuum in err 2 but if you read the tech manual you will see vacuum as a possible diagnosis. 90 percent of vacuum problems end up being dirty stove/vent. Not always easy to get every spot, if possible google pellet stove leaf blower trick it will give you video of how to suck out ash from your venting system. Not a replacement to a good deep cleaning but it does get to all those hard to reach places.

 

[ARC]

SidecarFlip is right adding a thermostat would help you control temperature in house you would not have to shut stove off to let house cool down. Instructions attached.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Additionally, if you suck the venting with a leaf blower I highly recommend removing the high temperature vacuum hose from the firebox nipple BEFORE you suck the venting out. The vacuum switch diaphragm is kind of fragile and the the added vacuum from the leaf blower can rupture it and then you WILL need a replacement.

 

[Kasarver2015]

So tell me, how did you put the settings back to 'normal'??? Just curious what you did and how you did it? I know how, not sure you know how in as much as you lack the basic knowledge of what Err2 denotes.

I set them back to what they were when I first started. No I don't know everything about this stove. I'm glad you know how to set it back to normal. As far as the err-2 I can read and was only going by what the manual and some google searching could tell me. But thanks for your help

 

[SidecarFlip]

I set them back to what they were when I first started. No I don't know everything about this stove. I'm glad you know how to set it back to normal. As far as the err-2 I can read and was only going by what the manual and some google searching could tell me. But thanks for your help

To set the board to it's original factory parameters, push the two outside top buttons simultaneously (HR top and Aux top ) and the board will reset to the factory algorithms. If you take the time to read the sticky's at the top of the forum page concerning USSC stoves with a 4 button board, it's all there spelled out in simple. easy to understand terms.

You can also unplug it while in operation and reconnect to line voltage and the board will reset as well but the 2 button method is the best. When the board resets you will see 'bye' displayed and then the version number of the board and then it's reset to factory parameters which, for all intents and purposes is what you want for roasting pellets.

Goggle is your friend sometimes, sometimes not because what Goggle loads up for you might not be the correct way, just a person's idea of the correct way.

Actually, if you read the sticky's, most of your concerns are addressed there as well.

I strongly suspect it's loaded with fly as inside and the venting is too.

I have no clue how you vented it either and if you 'Goggled' that, it may or may not be correct.

You said you bought it used. Been my experience that every used stove I've seen is loaded with fly ash. People don't bother cleaning a unit prior to selling it. Not just in the firebox either, but behind the firebox wall, in the combustion fan plenum and the exhaust stub as well.

I strongly suggest a DEEP clean and then sucking the venting out., the set the board to factory parameters, add a cheap remote T'stat and try the stove again (and don't forget to reconnect the vacuum hose you disconnected when you sucked the venting out. Before you start it, do the 'Dollar Bill' test on the door to make sure the rope gasket is sealing it. There is no adjustment as far as tightening the door against the stove body, other than removing the latch on the stove itself and bending it so it's important that the rope gasket is sealing the door properly. Any air leaks around the door will adversely impact the burn and can cause an ERR2 on the control panel.

You can buy a replacement gasket at Tractor Supply or online and the rope gasket adhesive as well.

I have mine custom programmed for corn but that isn't germane here. The control boards are very, very adjustable which is why they cost so much to replace.

To that end, I have mine connected to a high quality surge suppressor. My suggestion is get a Tripp-Lite Isobar supressor, they are on Amazon, like 35 bucks with free shipping. You can get a cheap T'stat there as well.

 

[Kasarver2015]

The stove we have is 6220 according to the book

 

[ARC]

The stove we have is 6220 according to the book

/

Mostly the same as 6100, here is the tech manual. Thermostat installs the same as the 6100 instructions. Still follow suggestions in Post 2 of this thread.

 

[Kasarver2015]

Ok we did a deep clean and removed everything that would come off and boy was it dirty cleaned the piping. Replaced the exhaust fan gasket I believe. Checked the gasket on the door and it was fine. Fired the stove up hoping for the best but it still only ran for about 20 minutes and shut off again. Please help with any other ideas of what is wrong with it

 

[SidecarFlip]

I see it has a Thermistor located in the draft fan housing and it connects to the circuit board vial a plug but has leads with terminals attached. If it's bad, the control board won't be able to sense the stove has come up to operating temperature and it will shut down. Not sure where you can get one, but that is the suspect part in as much as it ramps up, delivers heat and then shuts down.

My USSC don't have one, yours does. It's like the ESP probe in a Harman

 

[Kasarver2015]

I see it has a Thermistor located in the draft fan housing and it connects to the circuit board vial a plug but has leads with terminals attached. If it's bad, the control board won't be able to sense the stove has come up to operating temperature and it will shut down. Not sure where you can get one, but that is the suspect part in as much as it ramps up, delivers heat and then shuts down.

My USSC don't have one, yours does. It's like the ESP probe in a Harman

How would I check it to see if that is the problem and exactly where is that at?

 

[Ssyko]

you could remove it clean it then reinstall it. they will have a resistance measurment but i don't know its spec's

 

[ARC]

I assume that when it shut off it gave err 2 again. Did you check the vacuum safety switch hose to see if is cracked or plugged. If cracked you can usually trim a bit off and reattach if you need to replace it is a special high temp hose do not replace with regular hardware store hose it will melt.

I would jump the vacuum safety switch and try to run stove if it works then you know it is a vacuum problem. you can jump switch as explained in post 2 of this thread or you can turn it "off" using the C codes C 20 can make board ignore the pressure switch then running stove would let you know it is a vacuum or vacuum switch problem. If you use C codes it would be helpful to write down each reading/set point for each code.

To adjust the operation constant, press and hold the MODE and AUGER DELAY buttons
simultaneously for 3 seconds. The display will show “C-1”. Use the HEAT RANGE UP or HEAT
RANGE DOWN buttons to change the constant number (see the list of values below). When the
desired constant is displayed, press the ON button to toggle between viewing and editing the value.
While editing a parameter, use the AUX UP and AUX DOWN buttons to adjust the values to the
desired point, then press ON again to return to the constant number list. Press the OFF button to
exit the adjust operational constants mode.

 C-1- Reset to defaults (hold the MODE and AUGER DELAY buttons for 3 seconds to reset all
to defaults).
 C-2- Fuel Lbs. Per HR 1 (0-9.99) - This is the fuel rate in pounds per hour for a heat range
setting of 1. The default is 2.75.
 C-3- Fuel Lbs. Per HR 9 (0-9.99) –This is the fuel rate in pounds per hour for a heat range
setting of 9. The default is 7.5. The fuel rates used between setting 1 and 9 are linearly
interpolated between these two settings.
 C-4- Agitator On percentage HR 1 (0-100) - This is the percent on time for the agitator for a
setting of 1. The default is 25%.
 C-5- Agitator On percentage HR 9 (0-100) – This is the percent on time for the agitator for a
setting of 9. The default is 50%. The percent on time for the agitator used between settings
1 and 9 are linearly interpolated between these two settings.
 C-6- Draft Fan Level HR 1 (0-500) - This is the draft fan output level for a draft fan setting of
1. The default is 100.
 C-7- Draft Fan Level HR 9 (0-500) - This is the draft fan output level for a draft fan setting of
9. The default is 300.
 C-8- Fuel Rate Type Compensation (50%-200%) – This parameter affects how much the
auger runs to produce a given fuel rate. The default fuel rates are based on corn. This is the
default setting for this parameter, or 100%. If the parameter is adjusted up, the auger rate is
increased proportionally. If the fuel being used is less dense than corn (wood pellets for
instants), it may be necessary to raise this parameter to compensate. This makes the
programmed lbs. per hour correspond to the particular fuel type. Typically, wood pellets
need to be ran at 120% to compensate for their lower density and slower travel through the
auger system.
 C-9- Ramp Seconds for increasing level (0-300) - When the heat range setting is adjusted,
the control will ramp from the current setting to the target setting to avoid abrupt changes
in the outputs that could cause problems with the flame quality. The ramp seconds value
sets the amount of time to spend on each heat range (1-9 pseudo ranges not 1-5 user
ranges) as the current setting is ramping toward the target. If the current setting is ramping
down toward a lower target, the ramp value is half this number. The default value is 120.
 C-10- Startup Minutes for detecting warm furnace- (10-60)- This is the amount of time the
control will wait for the furnace to reach the warm temperature(110°F) after the furnace
has been started before shutting down and reporting an error condition Err3. The default is
30 minutes.
 C-11- Overtemp Setpoint-(0-400) - This is the measured flue gas temperature that will
cause an overtemp condition. In this condition, the control will stop auguring fuel until the
temperature returns to a safe operation point. The default is 325°F.
 C-12- Cutback Setpoint-(0-400) - This is the measured Flue gas temperature that will cause
an overtemp condition. In this condition, the control will ramp the heat range down based
on the ramp seconds described above divided by 2 until the temperature falls below the
cutback setpoint. The default is 300°F.
 C-13- Room Fan On Setpoint- (0-300) -This is the temperature that the measured flue gas
can reach before the flue controlled room fan turns on. If the measured temperature is
higher than this setpoint, the control will turn on the flue controlled room fan. This variable
also serves to indicate to the control that the stove is warm. If the measured temperature is
higher than this setpoint, the stove is considered warm and will not create an Er3. Whether
or not the stove is warm also determines if the unit will recover from a power failure. If the
stove is warm when power is lost and cold when it returns, it will shut down with an Er4.
The default is 150°F
 C-14- Cold Stove Setpoint-(0-200) - This variable is used to determine when the furnace is
cold and ready to be shut down. If during the shutdown sequence the measured
temperature is less than this value + ambient, the furnace will stop running the fans to cool
it off. The default is 40 degrees above ambient.
 C-15-Low Temp Vent Setpoint-(70-200)- This variable is used to control the vent controlled
room fan. If the measured vent temperature is greater than the Low Temp Vent Setpoint,
the vent controlled room fan will turn on. If the Measured vent temperature is less than the
Low Temp Vent Setpoint-5, the vent controlled room fan will turn off. The default for this
setpoint is 115°F.
 C-16- High Temp Vent Setpoint- (70-400) - This variable is used to limit the maximum vent
temperature. If the measured vent temperature is greater than the high temp vent setpoint,
the furnace will reduce the heat range by 1. If eh vent temperature falls below the setpoint-
5, the heat range will ramp back to normal. The default for this setpoint is 225°F.
 C-17- Auger Period in seconds- (5-20)- This is the fixed auger period. The ontime is
calculated based on the setpoint fuel rate in Lbs. and the full on rate set in C-18. The default
is 10.00 Seconds.
 C-18- Full On Fuel Rate in Lbs. Hour- (5-14)- This is the fuel rate that would be delivered if
the auger will turned 100% of the time. This definition is for corn only (see proportional
offset parameter C-8). The default value for this parameter is 14 Lbs. of corn per hour.
 C-19- Ignore Sense Errors (0-1)- When this parameter is set to 1, the sensor errors
including Interlock, and all fuse detection errors are disabled. The default is 0 (sense errors
enabled).
 C-20- Ignore Vacuum Switch (0-1)- When this parameter is set to 1, the vacuum switch is
ignored. The default is 0 (do not ignore the vacuum switch).

How would I check it to see if that is the problem

Run test below, pay attentions to 1, 9, 10 and 11.

6220 4 Digit Board Test
To run this test the UNIT MUST BE COOLED OFF. Power up the unit by plugging in the power
supply cord to the back of the unit. Press the on button and the circuit board then press and hold
the Off and Auger Delay buttons simultaneously for 3 seconds. To advance through the test
press the on key.
1. Exhaust Fan Output Test- The display will show “drift”. The exhaust fan is turned on full then
reduced to a level just above the typical minimum pressure switch setting. The ON LED indicates
whether the pressure sensor is detected. If the pressure switch is not detected, the fan ramps to full
on for two seconds then returns to the previously established level if the pressure switch closes. If
the Draft Fan Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Draft Fan LED will
be lit and the other three top row LEDs will be off.
2. Room Fan 1 Output Test – The display will show “rfn1”. The room fan 1 is turned on full. If the
Room Fan 1 Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the Room Fan LED will
be lit and the other three top row LEDs will be off.
3. Room Fan 2 Output Test- The display will show “rfn2”. The room fan 2 is turned on full. Since
there is no blown fuse detection circuit on the daughter board fan, none of the top row LED’s should
be lit.
4. Agitator Output Test- The display will shows “agit” The agitator is turned on full. If the Agitator
fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the AUX LED will be lit and the other
three row LED’s will be off.
5. Auger Output Test – The display will show “augr”. If the Hopper switch is open( lid open) the ON
LED will turn on otherwise, it will be OFF fuse.
6. Hopper Switch Test – The display will show “Hppr”. The igniter motor is turned on full. If the
Igniter (AUX) Fuse is not blown and the fuse detection circuit is functioning, the AUX LED will lit
and the other three top row LEDs will be off.
7. Thermostat Input Test – The display will show “stat”. If the thermostat input is closed, the ON
LED light will be on, otherwise it will be off.
8. Interlock Switch Test – The display will show “intl”. If the interlock is made (closed), the On LED
will turn on otherwise, it will be off.
9. Flue gas Thermistor Test – The display will show the flue gas temperature in degrees F.
10. Vent Thermistor Test- The display will show the vent temperature in degrees F.
11. Ambient Thermistor Test- The display will show the temperature of the daughter board
thermistor in degrees F.
12. AC Frequency Test - Displays the measured AC frequency in hertz followed by the letter “H”.
This should read 59, 60, or 61H
13. Watchdog Reset – The Watchdog timer is tested to ensure that the board can be reset. The
message “BYE” will be displayed until the Watchdog resets board.