Hi everybody!! My name is Josh. I am new to fireplaces and inserts altogether. I just recently bought a cheapo Vogelzang Colonial wood burning insert from Northerntool.com. Like i said i don't know much about fireplaces but i have a rectangular damper and the exit pipe for the insert is 6". How do i get through that damper with the flu pipe? Since i have a ceramic flu it is ok just to run 5' of flex stainless flex pipe off of the insert? I am not trying to be cheap but i just don't have the money to run a $500 pipe all the way up the fireplace. Any input will be helpful and appreciated. Thanks.
Another install question......
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Keep in mind that if you do not do a full liner, you will have to pull the insert every time you sweep the chimney. Also bear in mind that you need to check any local codes, which may dictate a full liner in some places. Welcome to the forums!
Sawzall. and a good supply of ear plugs, and don't forget the safety glasses.
I gather you are talking about going throught the 4" damper at the top of the fireplace and the trying to put a 6" liner up through the exisiting chimney. You have to cut the 4" by 24"(or whatever it is) fireplace damper and then also go to work in the steel fireplace surround at the top of the fireplace until you get enough room to fit your 6" flex liner through. If you "ovalize" your flex pipe and squeeze it throught the 4" opening it won't give you a smooth run for the gases up the flu and it might create pressure problems. In the end, and I only did mine about 4 weeks ago, it took me about 4 hours of sitting inside the fireplace to cut it all correctly. If you are handy with a blow torch it might be quicker.
Good luck
I gather you are talking about going throught the 4" damper at the top of the fireplace and the trying to put a 6" liner up through the exisiting chimney. You have to cut the 4" by 24"(or whatever it is) fireplace damper and then also go to work in the steel fireplace surround at the top of the fireplace until you get enough room to fit your 6" flex liner through. If you "ovalize" your flex pipe and squeeze it throught the 4" opening it won't give you a smooth run for the gases up the flu and it might create pressure problems. In the end, and I only did mine about 4 weeks ago, it took me about 4 hours of sitting inside the fireplace to cut it all correctly. If you are handy with a blow torch it might be quicker.
Good luck
When I did my install, I built a hearth pad in the living room for my free-standing stove, and ran the chimney straight up through the ceiling and out the roof. I wasn't using an existing flue, so my experience here is somewhat limited.
Some guys actual "ovalize" their liners in order to get them to fit through the rectangular opening. Some liners may come this way already. I believe that there are 6" round to oval adapters that you can use to make the conversion.
I'm sure somebody will be along shortly who can fill in the gaps in my knowledge... lord knows there are gaps!
One thing I do know is that your chimney is potentially the most important part of the entire stove system. A good chimney will generate the necessary draft for the stove to operate properly. If your chimney doesn't generate good draft, even the best stove will be a real chore to operate, and it won't burn hot or clean.
My suggestion going to be to NOT cheap out on the chimney liner. Running the liner all the way up with make cleaning easier and generate better draft.
If you do choose not to run the liner all the way up, you will need to have the clay tiles inspected by a professional to make sure that they are in good condition in order for it to be safe to use that flue without a full liner.
-SF
Some guys actual "ovalize" their liners in order to get them to fit through the rectangular opening. Some liners may come this way already. I believe that there are 6" round to oval adapters that you can use to make the conversion.
I'm sure somebody will be along shortly who can fill in the gaps in my knowledge... lord knows there are gaps!
One thing I do know is that your chimney is potentially the most important part of the entire stove system. A good chimney will generate the necessary draft for the stove to operate properly. If your chimney doesn't generate good draft, even the best stove will be a real chore to operate, and it won't burn hot or clean.
My suggestion going to be to NOT cheap out on the chimney liner. Running the liner all the way up with make cleaning easier and generate better draft.
If you do choose not to run the liner all the way up, you will need to have the clay tiles inspected by a professional to make sure that they are in good condition in order for it to be safe to use that flue without a full liner.
-SF
My friend who had your situation did an uninsulated liner and the bottom portion was ovalized to go through the damper and then turn round again where it attached to the stove. My upcoming install is also through a rectangular damper but my damper is even narrower and I want to do an insulated liner so even ovalized would be too narrow a slot. So in my case the damper will have to be ground out or sawed out as mentioned above, to at least the width of the liner. I was concerned that this would make the fireplace non functional in the future, if we moved and took the stove or something, but I was assured that top sealing dampers are the way to go these days and that would certainly solve that conflict. Good luck, there seems to be a growing group of Vozelgang Colonial enthusiasts on here these days!
I think he was being blatant with the second post, bear in mind that it was right before the holidays and many were with family and friends... Were you able to get your install completed.
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