Post in 'The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces' started by jqgs214, Nov 18, 2007.
I'm guessing it would be the stove itself serial #.
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What does this have to do with the topic Elk?
The admin ask that I fully disclose whenever I speak to a company, which I spoke to the folks at PE today, and preface my involvement.
IT's no so much part of the topic but an agreement with the powers that be on the Hearth. I can speak to customer support to find the locations of the serial Numbers for all our concerned members. I'm just trying to help out fellow hearth members I did not like the dealers response you have to send it back and it takes 3 months. I knew this was BS and would not accept it.
I had to find out if it were true. BTW PE would like to know the name of that dealership who made that statement
gunner this post was to respond to yours No ill intent just trying to seek truth. The next stove I purchase, could be a PE to help make wood heat more affordable (Donner efforts)
I do not need nor want you to speak on my behalf. If I had a problem I would take care of it myself....my baffle is fine as you can see. Keep me out of your dealings with stove companies.
This is much to do about nothing.
I have not taken measurements on my cat area, but I would be surprised if it were particularly hot - remember that the cat is pretty much enclosed within the insulating refractory package that is designed to reflect the heat from the cat combustion (also occurring in the package area) back into the firebox. I'll admit I haven't done much experimenting with thermometer placement, but according to the VC Encore manual, the hottest spot on the stove exterior is supposed to be the griddle. This makes sense to me as the griddle is just one layer of metal, and is exposed directly to the firebox. The sides and the rest of the top are double walled, and the back has the refractory package enclosing most of it internally.
Due to the way my stove is set up, it would be difficult for me to do measurements on the cat area - it would not only be hard to reach w/o getting burned, it would be even harder to see. At least as long as I only have my current dial thermometer, I won't be taking the requested measurements. Sorry...
(BTW, in the spirit of disclosure - I got one donor stove from Elk, which turned out not to be practical to repair, though I'm attempting to sell the parts as a rebuild kit... When the initial donor stove did not work out, I purchased a second used stove from him, at a very good price, and what he paid for it... I don't have any other non-retail connections to any stove manufacturer or distributor)
I have pictures of my baffle. How do you decrease the size of the pictures?
Depends on your platform, I use Krita under Linux-KDE, not sure what those w/ defective platforms (Microsoft) run. You can also use shrinkpictures.com which is an online tool that will do resizing for you, platform independently.
Here are the 3 pictures of the baffle. To the PE Summit owners does this look any different than yours?
to me, it does not look all that bad. I would run it threw the season, then in spring see if it gets any worse. At that
time I would make the decision ,whether I need replace it
guys /gals don't laugh...... but is this why its called a "floating baffle"
fishercat you should email those to PE and have them take a look at it and then maybe we can confirm once and for all if its acceptable or not .......
i believe elk spoke to someone there about it maybe those pics could get forwarded
and anyone else in question take pics and email them
Fishercat, I can't tell from the photos, but my baffle (super 27) has a row pf ports 90 degrees to the from ones. So a row running Font to back in the center of the baffle. Does your baffle have this? Could this be a way to even out the heat throughout the baffle.
Are those gaps between the baffle and steel support brackets ok?Or is there some kind of gasket around it?
Only gasket at baffle is the rear air intake tube gasket. there is insulation on each side. the baffle is an enclosed box that lays over the intake channel in the back,
Those gaps are normal & fine. the air comes in the baffle in back bottom and out the holes in front , front bottom and center. And also holes is the rear back from what I read.
It appears like there is nothing to worry about unless someone can tell me any different so I'll try and send the pictures to PE and see what they say.
That baffle looks just fine. Fire that sucker up.
My Summit only has about a month of burning on it and it looks pretty much the same as yours. The baffle doesn't appear to sit firmly on the back flange. I don't think it's from the baffle warping. I think the flange is a bit low. Mine is too. The gaps on the side flanges in the back are on not on mine. I wonder if maybe your baffle isn't seated well. I really don't think there is anything wrong with your stove or with PE baffles in general.
My Summit has the row of holes running from front-to-back, as well as the rows of holes running from side to side. The holes in my baffle appear to be a bit smaller than the ones in the pic.
mine is warped to. I will take some temp reading with my temp gun and let you know. I even had to weld a crack that developed on the back seam
I am headed to the kitchen to pop some popcorn. It is show-time.
Should be covered under warranty.
Did you contact your dealer?
Hmmm. eerily quiet on this thread after BrotherBarts statement. LOL
Waiting to here back from mark as to why he welded a piece that has a lifetime warranty.
^ Also curious about that.
There are no dealers within 150 miles. I will sent it in this summer.
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