Another question regarding wall behind wood stove

[brucethegoose]

I spent the last two months preparing my placement of a Dutchwest 2460. I exceeded all clearances by about one inch. What I think I did wrong was cut the Durock furring strips to 6 inches wide on each side vertically to attach outer 48 inch by 72 inch Durock wall to. I am going to install 24 gauge steel to it. Do you feel it safe to space steel one quarter inch off Durock as opposed to tearing whole thing out and making my furring strips 4 inches or less wide. I am totally new to wood burning, just retired to Tennessee from Michigan and have never used wood burning stove in my life. I am excited about this and can't wait to get started, but not easy yet. Any advise will be greatly appreciated. Wall behind stove is 14 inches thick. Full brick outside on top of 8 inch cinder block. inside walls furred on top of block with 2x4"s and covered with 5/8 fire rated dry wall with no insulation between drywall and block. One side of house buried in ground, only 4 windows in hole house.

 

[Oldman47]

The 2x4s are combustibles. That means that is where you need to start measuring. Standoffs of an inch need to be made of non-combustible materials, like for instance ceramics. If your furring strips were made of steel, more common these days, you would be fine because it would be a completely non-combustible structure behind the stove. Cinder block, brick and steel studs are all non-combustible. The standard for a protective wall is still a full inch open top and bottom between all combustibles and the shield wall. You do not have that. The Durock is a non-combustible but you are mounting it on a combustible wall so it provides zero clearance improvement. Are you trying to improve shielding for the stove or the stove pipe? If you just need it for the stove pipe use double wall instead and your clearance requirement will drop dramatically. I could not afford the space in my application for rear clearance for single wall stove pipe but double wall let me keep my travel paths in my new home and still have room for a stove. If you need the clearance for the stove itself, at least consider removing a couple of studs and replacing them with steel studs.

 

[brucethegoose]

The 2x4s are combustibles. That means that is where you need to start measuring. Standoffs of an inch need to be made of non-combustible materials, like for instance ceramics. If your furring strips were made of steel, more common these days, you would be fine because it would be a completely non-combustible structure behind the stove. Cinder block, brick and steel studs are all non-combustible. The standard for a protective wall is still a full inch open top and bottom between all combustibles and the shield wall. You do not have that. The Durock is a non-combustible but you are mounting it on a combustible wall so it provides zero clearance improvement. Are you trying to improve shielding for the stove or the stove pipe? If you just need it for the stove pipe use double wall instead and your clearance requirement will drop dramatically. I could not afford the space in my application for rear clearance for single wall stove pipe but double wall let me keep my travel paths in my new home and still have room for a stove. If you need the clearance for the stove itself, at least consider removing a couple of studs and replacing them with steel studs.

Thanks for your response, I do have a one inch clearance between the Durock and drywall but my spacers are also Durock
that are 6 inches wide strips as opposed to the 4 inch wide others have recommended. The wall is 48 inches wide an spaced out one inch by the strips vertically from one inch above floor to the top of the 72 inch high wall. There is an inch gap at the bottom to allow air flow behind it and through the opening at the top. My fear is that the 6 inch wide spacer strips holding the Durock away from the wall amy be to wide. What I was hoping was that I could additionally space the metal off the Durock to make a second but smaller air space to prevent the durock strips from getting to hot. Thanks again

 

[brucethegoose]

Thanks for your response, I do have a one inch clearance between the Durock and drywall but my spacers are also Durock
that are 6 inches wide strips as opposed to the 4 inch wide others have recommended. The wall is 48 inches wide an spaced out one inch by the strips vertically from one inch above floor to the top of the 72 inch high wall. There is an inch gap at the bottom to allow air flow behind it and through the opening at the top. My fear is that the 6 inch wide spacer strips holding the Durock away from the wall amy be to wide. What I was hoping was that I could additionally space the metal off the Durock to make a second but smaller air space to prevent the durock strips from getting to hot. Thanks again

 

[fossil]

You don't need to tear it all out or rebuild your house, or anything. The wall shield you've installed is just fine just the way it is. Decorate it any way you want with non-combustible materials (tile, whatever). You've done a good job so far. Rick

ETA: And there's no need for additional sheet metal shielding.

 

[begreen]

If tiling or covering with stone panels be sure to use latex modified thinset and not construction adhesive.

 

[brucethegoose]

If tiling or covering with stone panels be sure to use latex modified thinset and not construction adhesive.

Thanks for the reply, didn't mean to repeat myself, just learning how to post.

 

[brucethegoose]

You don't need to tear it all out or rebuild your house, or anything. The wall shield you've installed is just fine just the way it is. Decorate it any way you want with non-combustible materials (tile, whatever). You've done a good job so far. Rick

ETA: And there's no need for additional sheet metal shielding.

Thanks much. The steel is going to be stamped like antique style, mostly just to cover ugly Durock. My wife wants better look.

 

[Oldman47]

If your spacers are more Durock I think you will be good to go. Don't forget the air flow space required at top and bottom on that shield wall.

 

[brucethegoose]

If your spacers are more Durock I think you will be good to go. Don't forget the air flow space required at top and bottom on that shield wall.

Hey there Oldman ( i'm 62 so no offense) Got my name 55 years ago when my older brother's friend used to call me brucethegoose and it stuck. My spacers are Durock and is vented on top and bottom, New NFPA rules say only need 50%
of area open but I kept all open. I figured since I still have more clearance than minimum required for back of stove with rear stove heat shield and bottom shields installed along with double wall pipe, that spacing the steel panels out 1/4 inch from Durock will
help even more to keep it cool. I'm probably over thinking but safe is safe. Thanks Again

 

[brucethegoose]

Hey there Oldman ( i'm 62 so no offense) Got my name 55 years ago when my older brother's friend used to call me brucethegoose and it stuck. My spacers are Durock and is vented on top and bottom, New NFPA rules say only need 50%
of area open but I kept all open. I figured since I still have more clearance than minimum required for back of stove with rear stove heat shield and bottom shields installed along with double wall pipe, that spacing the steel panels out 1/4 inch from Durock will
help even more to keep it cool. I'm probably over thinking but safe is safe. Thanks Again

By the way I plan on painting tiles with high temp copper paint to inhibit rusting