Another year, a familiar problem

Planning on pulling the whole top off of my Oslo to do some baffle, burner tube work. I think the Oslo has a rope gasket for a seal. Maybe the same on a 600?. Not sure how it's going to go, but have been putting it off for a year. Maybe your rope seal wasn't installed right if it has one.

Do you really need to remove the top casting to work on the baffle?

Welds also crack...

I saw mentioned here, then I saw some at the stove store, a hi-temp sealant (2000+ degrees.) I don't think it was furnace cement. If it would flex, would that be a more permanent solution? I agree with previous comment that you should stay on them, though...

OK....NONE of my steel welded stoves have ever cracked... And yes, you can buy INDUSTRIAL QUALITY STOVE CEMENT, which is use to fill up cracks in very high temperature kilns and boilers. It has high adhesion on steel and cast iron, and can ve had in capacities up to about 3200 degrees, which is way above the temp that any stove steel is subjected to at least outside the firebox.

MY PE stove has the new kind of insulating fire bricks, which are more porous and lighter, and way more insulating of the firebox. They don't hold in the heat, but they protect the steel in the stove from excessive heat. I also don't fire my stove much above 550 since, in my opinion, more than that just sends that extra heat up the stovepipe rather than into my rooms. But then I have a terrific fan, that is quiet and I can just turn up.

Ah. I was thinking they were built like VC stoves which are cemented into place.

We are only highlighting that steel stoves can, and do, crack. All stoves can develop problems. A steel stove is no different.

Sounds like someone drank a litte too much of the salesman's cool aid? Steel that can't crack, magical firebricks, industrial strength cement...

Yep... Jotul 400/500/600's have gasketed tops. Remove two bolts (three for my old top loaders), and they lift right off! Beautiful system.

Remkel...how old is your stove?

I may have bent up a manifold shoving a log in there. It also dislodged the baffle. The cement chips fell out into the ashes. From the parts diagram it looks like the manifold screw can only be approached from the top. also It may be easier to cement down the rear of the baffle by pulling it up , laying down a layer of cement and pressing it into it. The chips that fell out seemed deep so I think that it is the way done in the factory

Ummmmm....1.5 years.......yeah, been quite a ride.