Any recomendations for an electric log splitter?

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My brother in law does. But he is the kind of guy who should wear a helmet in the shower. ;-P
 
Elkimmeg,

I am interested in purchasing an electric-powered log splitter and the 16-ton Ramsplitter that you have tops my list of candidates. (I had been considering the DR 6-ton unit.) I notice that Ramsplitter offers the H12-3 with a 1.5hp electric motor for $869 and it has 12 tons of ram force with its 3" cylinder.

However, your electric unit apparently has the same electric motor but you have 16 tons of ram force because you have a 3½" cylinder, which makes your unit an H16-something. However, I don't see how I would go about ordering your unit because that option isn't listed on Ramsplitter's website. At least, I did not see it.

I thought for sure it was going to appear in their "Design Your Own" section, but that applies only to 20, 25, and 30 ton gas-powered units. I would rather just order the unit with the 3½" cylinder already installed rather than order an H12-3 with a 3" cylinder and then order a 3½" cylinder and swap cylinders. Just out of curiosity, in case I can order an H16-electric, what will it cost? I am interested in the price differential.

I probably don't have a lot of logs that wouldn't yield to a 12-ton force, but I do have some in the 16-inch diameter range and with some knots as well. And I do have some more trees in that size range that I haven't felled yet. My decision to pay the extra bucks for the 3½" cylinder would depend on how much extra money was involved.

Thanks for bringing the electric Ramsplitters to my attention.

MM
 
Elk,

I contacted RamSplitter and they answered my questions about the availability (yes) and cost of the electric H16 splitter ($899). The electric 16-ton model does get an automatic motor upgrade to 2hp with the option to have it wired for either 110v or 220v. I haven't made that decision yet, pending on contacting a local electrician about getting a 220-volt outlet put into our garage. I know that 220 volts is "better" and that the 110-volt choice results in a higher current draw of 17 amps. I will check with our local electrical supply house about the availability of 220-volt extension cords, in case we want to operate the splitter in the back yard. Having 220 in the garage could be a good thing in case we get a large tool in the future that could benefit from that.

MM
 
The marathon motor can be wired either way 110 or 220 so you can start with the 20 amp single phase option and up grade to 220 later.
Mine is 200 feet from the plug and works great same motor is 1.5 hp single 110 amps 2.0 hp wired 220. I traded out to the 3.5" piston but also adjusted the detant valve screw, they are pre set to 2225 lbs pressure but can take 3000. It has split some real nasty stuff. BTW you may mention my name guy from MA he sold to last fall. I have split more than 7 cords since I received it including up to 20" white oak this weekend you are welcome to demo it before purchase with me. Just PM me, I'm near the patriots stadium. Also require an on off switch I installed my own. You are not paying any extra for 2hp it is allready capable by wiring it 220

Btw 10 gage wire first 100' then 12 gage the next 200' It even worked with another 12 gage wire at 250' If you can work within 100' of the plug (20 amp) 12 gage is fine over that go 10 gage
 
Elk,

I already did mention you favorably in my email to RamSplitter. If the motor is the same but 1.5hp at 110 and 2.0hp at 220 I probably will start off at 110. But first I will be contacting an electrician to see how much it will cost to run a 220 line to our garage. I will also check into how difficult it is to get 220 outdoor extension cord. I already have 100 feet of 10-gauge 3-wire 110 outdoor cord. It is almost as thick as garden hose. I need to get a decent reel for it. I don't recall ever seeing any 220 outdoor cord at Home Depot. Thanks much for your information. I will keep you posted.

MM
 
Making things sinple your dryer which is rated 30 amps is a 10 /3 or /4 wire all one has to do is attach the right plugs
In a 3 wire setup two wires carry 110 the third wire is the nuetral . 4 wire setup you will have power feeds in
the red and black wires White nuetral and a ground wire My motor came with Instructions of how to wire it to 2 hp
Btw I figure if I wanted to I can swap out the electric motor to a gas motor for remote situations . Might take all of
10 minutess.
So it is possible
to convert your 10/ 3 wire to 220 with plugs actually if only 100' 12 /3 would also work in 20 amp situations at 220

The Marathon motor is not cheap retails for $365+ almost 1/2 the splitter cost And quiet to run nobody in the
neighborhood will know you are splitting wood. What I also do is run a cheap Home Crapo Electric chainsaw 3hp or more
doing my opperation since you have juice there anyhow

Running the line to the garage if just for the splitter 10/3 or /4 wire is fine If thinking of running a welder than
50/ 60 amp curcuit would be best. Welders suppliers also may have the extentions cords
Check RV places they may have converter plug adapters for your existing extention cords
 
I just bought the Ryobi 4-ton on Monday at Home Depot (finally found a local HD that had it in stock). It's capacity is 20", not the 12 or 14" ones. My little airtight stove can only take 14" logs, but I thought I'd go with 20" so that I can split wood for my firepit down by the beach.

As I suspected, the wood I split (green alder and douglas fir) pops right open. Doesn't even slow down the Ryobi. I had a few pieces of a knarly, knotty old apple tree that I had been avoiding. Powered right through them. I love the fact that it automatically resets. I don't have to power the ram back. Spitting basically goes twice as fast as the neighbor's 8hp gas. Instead of working on the ground, like his gas splitter is set up (and the Ryobi can be used), I put the electric on the tailgate. Nice work height and then I just throw the pieces right in the truck.

Sure, you need to be near a plug in, but with the Ryobi, it's only a 15A, not the 20A used by other electrics. I just happen to have a 170' 10 gauge welder's extension cord. Worked fine. Seems that most of the people who say the electrics don't have enough power are using the skinny 16 gauge cords. If you've tried to run a SkilSaw on one of those (about the same amperage) you know that the blade binds because you don't have enough juice. If I do come to something I can't split, I'll tell the neighbor he can have them. Then he can hitch up his splitter, put on his ear protection, check the engine oil, pour gas over his splitter, shoot some starter fluid into it, pull on the cord a few times, adjust the throttle, and split any pieces that my splitter can't handle.

Mark
 
Mark,

It sounds like the Ryobi 4-ton is working fine for you. I'm happy for you. Glad you found one locally. It would have been a bit difficult to stuff one into the overhead storage on an airlline. (grin) I'm still planning on getting the RamSplitter 16-ton. I don't have a masochistic neighbor.

MM
 
Hi Guys,

I am also leaning towards the Ryobi. Cheap, good (according to ELK and Gnome) and I can get one for $225 (return at home cheapo).

But first, I am going to rent a large gas powered one, to see how that goes and what problems I run into. If none, I can get the Ryobi, if many, I am sure the Ryobi would have even more so I would have to stick with renting or buying a more powerful gas splitter.

Carpniels
 
I split about 3/4 cord on Sunday with my Ryobi. It went incredibly fast. The wood was already bucked and within the reach of my 100' extension cord. I was planning on bringing a load of split wood back to town, so I put the Ryobi on the tailgate of the truck. When I split the log, it drops right into the bed of the truck. No bending over to pick up the stuff after it's been split or picking up pieces that need to be split again.

the alder and fir I'm dealing with may split easy compared to what others have. I don't know. One 14x16" log had three branches coming out of it. That was the only one that slowed down the splitter, but just enough so that it sounded a little different. Most everything else popped right open.

So much faster than gas. The ram automatically retracts, but if you don't need it all the way retracted, you can stop it where you want it and save time. Say you want to split a 15" long log into fourths. You put it on, push the electric motor button and the hydraulic lever, and run the ram to split it in half. Grab the part closest to you with your right hand and let the other half fall on the tailgate. Leave your left your left hand depressing the hydraulic lever so that the ram hasn't retracted back to 20". Let up on the hydraulic valve and let the ram retract just far enough so that you can get the 1/2 log in. When you push down on the hydraulic lever, it stops the ram in that position even if the motor isn't running. Once you can get the half log in, push the green button and split it. Throw both pieces into the truck. Reach under the splitter and slide out the remaining half. Split it the same way.

You save yourself the 2-3 seconds it takes from full retract (20") to get to 15" where you'll be splitting. Seems like a tiny amount of time, but it can actually cut splitting time by more than half. I was splitting into fourths in less than 10 seconds. Sixths take a few seconds longer.

No gas, no fumes, no noise. The quiet was great. I had a snowshow hare running around the area most of the time and the splitter didn't bother him/her. Of course, they have other things on their minds this time of year.

I left enough room in the back of the truck for the Ryobi and took it back to the tool shed. Probably used 25 cents worth of electricity. My only complaint is that my right index finger got a little sore from pushing the button. I'm okay now. So far, I'm still a fan of the little electric.

Mark Fleming
 
I remember a few years ago seeing an electric splitter that used a large Acme threaded screw that moved the wedge for splitting. Are they still around or didn't they work?
Mike
 
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