Anyone ever burn a Hearthstone I? (Now with pics)

[wood scrounge]

Gentlemen,

Just wanted to say thanks for such a wonderful site.

I've been lurking around for a couple of weeks and figured I'd come out of the smokey corner and say hello My wife is asleep on the couch and Willie is singing the blues on the CD player. Just cracked a cold beer so I figured, if I'm going to get comfortable, I might as well introduce myself.

I came across a Hearthstone I a couple of years ago. A friend of mine was switching to gas and knew my wife and I were building a home and were either going to build a fireplace or put in a stove. To make a long story short, he said that if I came and got it out of his living room we could have the Hearthstone for $500. It was a beautiful stove I thought that was a steal until we had to actually move it........!

Anyway, we got the beast out of his house and into ours about 3 years ago this month. Had to move it several times until we were ready to put it in place. A friend of mine, my wife and I built a hearth while the house was in the dry in stage. Been heating with it ever since.

And unless it falls through the floor I sincerely believe it is in its final resting place.

I've seen a couple of threads about the Hearthstone I and found the manual on the Wiki page (Great find). However, I was wondering if anyone here has ever burned one or is still burning one. I'd love to hear of any tricks to make a betta' burn

 

[weatherguy]

Dont have one so cant help you there but wheres your pics?

 

[wood scrounge]

I'll try to get some up soon.

 

[Rich L]

[quote author="wood scrounge" date="1235724807"]Gentlemen,

Just wanted to say thanks for such a wonderful site.

I've been lurking around for a couple of weeks and figured I'd come out of the smokey corner and say hello My wife is asleep on the couch and Willie is singing the blues on the CD player. Just cracked a cold beer so I figured, if I'm going to get comfortable, I might as well introduce myself.

I came across a Hearthstone I a couple of years ago. A friend of mine was switching to gas and knew my wife and I were building a home and were either going to build a fireplace or put in a stove. To make a long story short, he said that if I came and got it out of his living room we could have the Hearthstone for $500. It was a beautiful stove I thought that was a steal until we had to actually move it........!

Anyway, we got the beast out of his house and into ours about 3 years ago this month. Had to move it several times until we were ready to put it in place. A friend of mine, my wife and I built a hearth while the house was in the dry in stage. Been heating with it ever since.

And unless it falls through the floor I sincerely believe it is in its final resting place.

I've seen a couple of threads about the Hearthstone I and found the manual on the Wiki page (Great find). However, I was wondering if anyone here has ever burned one or is still burning one. I'd love to hear of any tricks to make a betta' burn[/quote
]
What do you mean by a better burn?I would think that thing could handle any weather Virginia has to throw at it.I was up in Maine at my cousin's ski lodge some years ago and he had the HearthstoneI.It roasted us out of there.We went outside in below zero weather just to cool off.We lit one fire and it burned or produced heat for what seemed the whole weekend.We weren't about to put more wood it that thing.It was a sweat lodge as it was.

 

[wood scrounge]

Gentlemen,

]
What do you mean by a better burn?I would think that thing could handle any weather Virginia has to throw at it.I was up in Maine at my cousin's ski lodge some years ago and he had the HearthstoneI.It roasted us out of there.We went outside in below zero weather just to cool off.We lit one fire and it burned or produced heat for what seemed the whole weekend.We weren't about to put more wood it that thing.It was a sweat lodge as it was.

Not really looking for anything real specific, just any little tricks or techniques other owners of the stove have discovered to extend burn times, maximize secondary burn, etc...

I have a front double glass door and a side load. I was curious if most people load East West primarily or North South. I've played around with both. I haven't had any luck loading with the front doors because there are usually logs or embers resting against them,

I've been well pleased with the stove overall. It seems to put out a lot of heat once it is up and going. But I've never been around a modern EPA stove in full swing. The coldest it has been this winter was around 10 degrees and very windy. The stove was still able to heat the house w/o any other heat source. I did get up and reload around 4:00 AM though.

I just purchased a stove top thermometer and have had fun watching the temp and playing around with the air intakes. I can usually get up to 500 - 600 fairly easy but I don't really know what the upper limits of this stove should be temp wise. Didn't see anything in the manual about maxes. When I shut the side vents down completely it usually cruises in the 500's for 4-5 hours then drops down into the low 300's by morning. Maybe 6-8 hours later. Is this okay? Good/ bad/ decent?

I had some questions about flue temps. I have a single wall flue going up to the ceiling. I haven't fiddled with the thermometer much on it yet. How does the surface temp on the single wall translate into internal temps. Seems like I read to double the surface temp for an approximation???

Also, my air intakes don't seem to match what I see design wise in the manual. So I was curious about that. I don't have a rear air intake like I think I see in the manual.

The original owner had a Catalytic unit in the round floor at the top of the stove but I've never seen this stove mentioned as a cat. Was this a mistake to put it in? I'm not using one currently.

I have some draft problems when first starting if I don't have ideal kindling etc....Have to leave the door cracked a little. Just learned about the top down method of starting so I am experimenting with that.

Most of my draft problems stem from my own inexperience when installing the stove flue. I have a 8" reduced to 6" right out of the back of the stove. I understand now that is a big no no for proper performance. I wonder how much this is hurting my performance.

I also modified some of the intakes, I'm sure that was a no no as well. I was attempting to overcome what I thought was poor draft of the stove. As mentioned above I suspect it was due to the flue pipe reduction.

I've burned for a number of years but after reading this website I realize there is a lot I could learn. Just trying to throw this out there to learn from people more experienced than me.

Thanks

 

[Todd]

Gentlemen,

]

Not really looking for anything real specific, just any little tricks or techniques other owners of the stove have discovered to extend burn times, maximize secondary burn, etc...

I have a front double glass door and a side load. I was curious if most people load East West primarily or North South. I've played around with both. I haven't had any luck loading with the front doors because there are usually logs or embers resting against them,

Most people rake coals forward and load E/W for longer burns and load N/S for hotter burns.
I've been well pleased with the stove overall. It seems to put out a lot of heat once it is up and going. But I've never been around a modern EPA stove in full swing. The coldest it has been this winter was around 10 degrees and very windy. The stove was still able to heat the house w/o any other heat source. I did get up and reload around 4:00 AM though.

I just purchased a stove top thermometer and have had fun watching the temp and playing around with the air intakes. I can usually get up to 500 - 600 fairly easy but I don't really know what the upper limits of this stove should be temp wise. Didn't see anything in the manual about maxes. When I shut the side vents down completely it usually cruises in the 500's for 4-5 hours then drops down into the low 300's by morning. Maybe 6-8 hours later. Is this okay? Good/ bad/ decent?

Sounds like your doing just fine. 500-600 is a good cruising range for soapstone. It takes some time to figure out a new stove, lots of trial and error to see what works best.
I had some questions about flue temps. I have a single wall flue going up to the ceiling. I haven't fiddled with the thermometer much on it yet. How does the surface temp on the single wall translate into internal temps. Seems like I read to double the surface temp for an approximation???

Yes, on my single wall the internal temps are roughly twice the external temps. Your external pipe temps should run lower than your stove top temps. Could be 250-450 depending on how hot your burning.
Also, my air intakes don't seem to match what I see design wise in the manual. So I was curious about that. I don't have a rear air intake like I think I see in the manual.

The original owner had a Catalytic unit in the round floor at the top of the stove but I've never seen this stove mentioned as a cat. Was this a mistake to put it in? I'm not using one currently.
I believe some of the early Hearthstones were cat stoves, you say the old owner had a cat installed in the stove or was it a retro fit above the exhaust collar? If it's a cat stove, there should be a bypass damper and extra lever for reloading and cold start ups? Does this stove have a name plate on the back with serial number or model number? If you can get those numbers and contact Hearthstone and find out how old and if it's a cat or not.
I have some draft problems when first starting if I don't have ideal kindling etc....Have to leave the door cracked a little. Just learned about the top down method of starting so I am experimenting with that.

Most of my draft problems stem from my own inexperience when installing the stove flue. I have a 8" reduced to 6" right out of the back of the stove. I understand now that is a big no no for proper performance. I wonder how much this is hurting my performance.

I also modified some of the intakes, I'm sure that was a no no as well. I was attempting to overcome what I thought was poor draft of the stove. As mentioned above I suspect it was due to the flue pipe reduction.

I've burned for a number of years but after reading this website I realize there is a lot I could learn. Just trying to throw this out there to learn from people more experienced than me.


Thanks

Me thinks it's a cat stove since it has the 8" exhaust, and it may work better if you can keep it 8". I wonder if you have the right manual for this stove. Do some more research and try and contact Hearthstone. Hopefully someone with some experience with this stove will chime in to give more help.

 

[Rich L]

Gentlemen,

]
What do you mean by a better burn?I would think that thing could handle any weather Virginia has to throw at it.I was up in Maine at my cousin's ski lodge some years ago and he had the HearthstoneI.It roasted us out of there.We went outside in below zero weather just to cool off.We lit one fire and it burned or produced heat for what seemed the whole weekend.We weren't about to put more wood it that thing.It was a sweat lodge as it was.

Not really looking for anything real specific, just any little tricks or techniques other owners of the stove have discovered to extend burn times, maximize secondary burn, etc...

I have a front double glass door and a side load. I was curious if most people load East West primarily or North South. I've played around with both. I haven't had any luck loading with the front doors because there are usually logs or embers resting against them,

I've been well pleased with the stove overall. It seems to put out a lot of heat once it is up and going. But I've never been around a modern EPA stove in full swing. The coldest it has been this winter was around 10 degrees and very windy. The stove was still able to heat the house w/o any other heat source. I did get up and reload around 4:00 AM though.

I just purchased a stove top thermometer and have had fun watching the temp and playing around with the air intakes. I can usually get up to 500 - 600 fairly easy but I don't really know what the upper limits of this stove should be temp wise. Didn't see anything in the manual about maxes. When I shut the side vents down completely it usually cruises in the 500's for 4-5 hours then drops down into the low 300's by morning. Maybe 6-8 hours later. Is this okay? Good/ bad/ decent?

I had some questions about flue temps. I have a single wall flue going up to the ceiling. I haven't fiddled with the thermometer much on it yet. How does the surface temp on the single wall translate into internal temps. Seems like I read to double the surface temp for an approximation???

Also, my air intakes don't seem to match what I see design wise in the manual. So I was curious about that. I don't have a rear air intake like I think I see in the manual.

The original owner had a Catalytic unit in the round floor at the top of the stove but I've never seen this stove mentioned as a cat. Was this a mistake to put it in? I'm not using one currently.

I have some draft problems when first starting if I don't have ideal kindling etc....Have to leave the door cracked a little. Just learned about the top down method of starting so I am experimenting with that.

Most of my draft problems stem from my own inexperience when installing the stove flue. I have a 8" reduced to 6" right out of the back of the stove. I understand now that is a big no no for proper performance. I wonder how much this is hurting my performance.

I also modified some of the intakes, I'm sure that was a no no as well. I was attempting to overcome what I thought was poor draft of the stove. As mentioned above I suspect it was due to the flue pipe reduction.

I've burned for a number of years but after reading this website I realize there is a lot I could learn. Just trying to throw this out there to learn from people more experienced than me.
If you have a strong draft or if you can get the stove to draft strongly by getting a good roaring fire going put in a pipe damper if you haven't done so.The damper will extend the burn greatly.Just run the stove hot daily to burn off the excess creosote that will develope from the shut down burns.

Thanks

 

[Steve Z]

If it's a cat stove you'll have a bypass lever. This is closed during preflight, run up, and initial climb, then opened when up too altitude (temp) to engauge the cataliser and burn that smoke. Also close when refueling. If you don't have the bypass, it's not a cat model. Pix would help identify.

 

[Rich L]

Yo,my last post was a repeat somehow however I meant to say if you don't have a pipe damper in and your draft is strong once the fire is going put one in.This will increased the heat output and heat time significantly.Just burn it hot daily due to the increased creosote that will occur from the shut down burns.Another thing I don't think this stove has a cat.I don't remember if I had to engage the Cat.just the pipe damper me thinks???????????

 

[wood scrounge]

Gentlemen,


Most people rake coals forward and load E/W for longer burns and load N/S for hotter burns.
Sounds like your doing just fine. 500-600 is a good cruising range for soapstone. It takes some time to figure out a new stove, lots of trial and error to see what works best.
Yes, on my single wall the internal temps are roughly twice the external temps. Your external pipe temps should run lower than your stove top temps. Could be 250-450 depending on how hot your burning.
I believe some of the early Hearthstones were cat stoves, you say the old owner had a cat installed in the stove or was it a retro fit above the exhaust collar? If it's a cat stove, there should be a bypass damper and extra lever for reloading and cold start ups? Does this stove have a name plate on the back with serial number or model number? If you can get those numbers and contact Hearthstone and find out how old and if it's a cat or not.
Me thinks it's a cat stove since it has the 8" exhaust, and it may work better if you can keep it 8". I wonder if you have the right manual for this stove. Do some more research and try and contact Hearthstone. Hopefully someone with some experience with this stove will chime in to give more help.

Todd,

Thanks for taking the time to respond. Makes me feel a little better to know that the stove temps are acceptable performance wise. Until I found this site I was just burning on intuition and experimentation. Never even heard of measuring stove top temps and flue temps etc...The old saying is true that the more you learn the more you realize you don't know.

About the stove model and manual - I don't have the original manual that came with the stove. The stove has a nameplate on the back that says Hearthstone I. I did a fair amount of searching on the web about that stove and this site is one of the only ones I found that even mentioned it. I found the manual for the Hearthstone I and II on this wiki page. It was very helpful and I appreciate whoever took the time to scan it in.

Some of it seems to match my stove but not all of it. The stove looks the same, I feel like it weighs about the same (over 700lbs) but the air intakes don't seem to match up. I will take your advice and call Hearthstone.

You asked about a bypass damper. It does have one. There is spiral handled lever at the top left of the stove that drops a damper across the front of the stove, just over the glass doors. If you close that, the gasses and smoke are forced up through a hole (approx. 6" diameter) in a metal plate at the top of the stove. That is where the catl was placed when I first go the stove. It since fell out and broke into a dozen pieces.

The air then exits through a oval shaped flue in the back of the stove.

I had to purchase a new flue adapter to fit that oval hole from a local stove shop. For some reason the oval attachement had a 8" to 6" reducer on it already so I just ran 6" single wall from that reduce up to my ceiling. From there it goes to double wall then triple through my attic and out the roof. Had I done more research at the time, I would have run 8" flue all the way up. I doubt I can spend the money to replace it now unless it is a safety hazard???

The air intakes are both front and back and on both sides. There are a series of 12 holes along the bottom of the glass doors. These cannot be closed or adjusted. Just a simple hole. The back of the stove has what I think is call a secondary burn pipe. It exits on the right side of the stove and has a metal "flap" that swivels over it. It has holes all along it's length on the inside of the stove.

Both sides of the stove have air intakes with a round threaded knob that can be closed all the way. Once the stove is burning pretty good, I can close those most or all the way and just allow air in from the front and back intakes.

Probably more info than anyone cares to read but that's what I have. Pictures to come soon I hope.

Thanks again for your response.

Scrounge

 

[wood scrounge]

If it's a cat stove you'll have a bypass lever. This is closed during preflight, run up, and initial climb, then opened when up too altitude (temp) to engauge the cataliser and burn that smoke. Also close when refueling. If you don't have the bypass, it's not a cat model. Pix would help identify.

Thanks Paleo

I'm going to try to post pictures tomorrow. I have a day away from the office. It sounds to me like this stove may have been designed as a cat stove. If so, how bad is it to burn it w/o the cat in place?

Thanks for your time.

 

[wood scrounge]

Yo,my last post was a repeat somehow however I meant to say if you don't have a pipe damper in and your draft is strong once the fire is going put one in.This will increased the heat output and heat time significantly.Just burn it hot daily due to the increased creosote that will occur from the shut down burns.Another thing I don't think this stove has a cat.I don't remember if I had to engage the Cat.just the pipe damper me thinks???????????

Thanks Rich.

After reading more on this forum I was wondering about a flue damper with my setup. However I'm already concerned about the flue being too small. Would it make since to put a damper in one that is already undersized?

 

[Todd]

Hope Hearthstone can hook you up with the right manual. I did a search of www.woodstovecombustors.com and found the Hearthstone I cat for $127. I would install a new cat to increase your efficiency and burn less wood. I bet with that huge firebox and a good working cat it will burn all day.

 

[Todd]

Give this place a call, they may know something about that old stove.
http://www.stovepartsplus.com/Merch..._Code=SPP&Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=HTSNHRTHI

 

[wood scrounge]

Hope Hearthstone can hook you up with the right manual. I did a search of www.woodstovecombustors.com and found the Hearthstone I cat for $127. I would install a new cat to increase your efficiency and burn less wood. I bet with that huge firebox and a good working cat it will burn all day.

Todd,

Just finished a reload at 4:00 AM to liven things up and was pleased to see your response. Normally don't have to 4 hours after going to bed but it's 10 degrees out and my remaining wood is covered in snow and not as seasoned as I would like so I left the air open on the sides just a touch. I'll bet that cat would've helped tonight.

You've been a huge help. I plan on giving Hearthstone a call tomorrow.

The Condar site looks great and I look forward to checking it out. Not sure how I missed that on my previous searches. Awesome price on that. I priced what I thought would be a similar replacement and it was $300 if I recall.

Does anyone have any experience with the Steel Cat version of that manufacturer? It is only $35 more than the ceramic. Better cat?

Again, thanks for your time. I'm like a kid in a candy store. Too bad I won't have much time left this year to test it out with cat in. Oh well, maybe I should wait, it will give me an extra 6 monts to justify the purchase. Crappy economy and all.....

Scrounge

 

[Rich L]

Yo,my last post was a repeat somehow however I meant to say if you don't have a pipe damper in and your draft is strong once the fire is going put one in.This will increased the heat output and heat time significantly.Just burn it hot daily due to the increased creosote that will occur from the shut down burns.Another thing I don't think this stove has a cat.I don't remember if I had to engage the Cat.just the pipe damper me thinks???????????

Thanks Rich.

After reading more on this forum I was wondering about a flue damper with my setup. However I'm already concerned about the flue being too small. Would it make since to put a damper in one that is already undersized?

Since I was wrong about this stove being a Cat.or not and since it is a Cat. I'd get the Cat.installed and wait on the damper.The Cat maybe all you need.The damper calls for a very strong draft and since your undersized the draft may not be strong enough for the damper to work.I have an 8'' flue on my Blaze King and it's going into a 6'' at the ceiling then through the roof.My knowledgeable dealer said it can work however the 8" pipe should run from the stove all the way to the increaser or reducer which attaches to the pipe going through the roof.I did this and it works fine with a strong draft.

 

[Todd]

Hope Hearthstone can hook you up with the right manual. I did a search of www.woodstovecombustors.com and found the Hearthstone I cat for $127. I would install a new cat to increase your efficiency and burn less wood. I bet with that huge firebox and a good working cat it will burn all day.

Todd,

Just finished a reload at 4:00 AM to liven things up and was pleased to see your response. Normally don't have to 4 hours after going to bed but it's 10 degrees out and my remaining wood is covered in snow and not as seasoned as I would like so I left the air open on the sides just a touch. I'll bet that cat would've helped tonight.

You've been a huge help. I plan on giving Hearthstone a call tomorrow.

The Condar site looks great and I look forward to checking it out. Not sure how I missed that on my previous searches. Awesome price on that. I priced what I thought would be a similar replacement and it was $300 if I recall.

Does anyone have any experience with the Steel Cat version of that manufacturer? It is only $35 more than the ceramic. Better cat?

Again, thanks for your time. I'm like a kid in a candy store. Too bad I won't have much time left this year to test it out with cat in. Oh well, maybe I should wait, it will give me an extra 6 monts to justify the purchase. Crappy economy and all.....

Scrounge

For $35 more I'd definitely go for the steel cat. The advantages over the ceramic cats are no thermal shock cracking and lower lite off temps.

 

[wood scrounge]

Hearthstone I (trying to post a picture)

 

[wood scrounge]

Trying another pic....

 

[wood scrounge]

Hope Hearthstone can hook you up with the right manual. I did a search of www.woodstovecombustors.com and found the Hearthstone I cat for $127. I would install a new cat to increase your efficiency and burn less wood. I bet with that huge firebox and a good working cat it will burn all day.

Todd,

Just finished a reload at 4:00 AM to liven things up and was pleased to see your response. Normally don't have to 4 hours after going to bed but it's 10 degrees out and my remaining wood is covered in snow and not as seasoned as I would like so I left the air open on the sides just a touch. I'll bet that cat would've helped tonight.

You've been a huge help. I plan on giving Hearthstone a call tomorrow.

The Condar site looks great and I look forward to checking it out. Not sure how I missed that on my previous searches. Awesome price on that. I priced what I thought would be a similar replacement and it was $300 if I recall.

Does anyone have any experience with the Steel Cat version of that manufacturer? It is only $35 more than the ceramic. Better cat?

Again, thanks for your time. I'm like a kid in a candy store. Too bad I won't have much time left this year to test it out with cat in. Oh well, maybe I should wait, it will give me an extra 6 monts to justify the purchase. Crappy economy and all.....

Scrounge

For $35 more I'd definitely go for the steel cat. The advantages over the ceramic cats are no thermal shock cracking and lower lite off temps.

Thanks Todd. I will take your advice and go with the steel. You've been a huge help.

 

[wood scrounge]

Yo,my last post was a repeat somehow however I meant to say if you don't have a pipe damper in and your draft is strong once the fire is going put one in.This will increased the heat output and heat time significantly.Just burn it hot daily due to the increased creosote that will occur from the shut down burns.Another thing I don't think this stove has a cat.I don't remember if I had to engage the Cat.just the pipe damper me thinks???????????

Thanks Rich.

After reading more on this forum I was wondering about a flue damper with my setup. However I'm already concerned about the flue being too small. Would it make since to put a damper in one that is already undersized?

Since I was wrong about this stove being a Cat.or not and since it is a Cat. I'd get the Cat.installed and wait on the damper.The Cat maybe all you need.The damper calls for a very strong draft and since your undersized the draft may not be strong enough for the damper to work.I have an 8'' flue on my Blaze King and it's going into a 6'' at the ceiling then through the roof.My knowledgeable dealer said it can work however the 8" pipe should run from the stove all the way to the increaser or reducer which attaches to the pipe going through the roof.I did this and it works fine with a strong draft.

thanks for the advice Rich. I think I will go with the cat first and see how it works. Does the cat increase burn temps or just efficiency and burn times?

Would you agree that I need to find out what my max safe temp is before I get it much over 600 stove top temp? Or do I still have some leeway? I don't think I would want it much over that anyway just due to room temp comfort level.

It's good to hear that a professional told you the reduction is okay.

I can see replacing my 6" single wall up to the ceiling. Photo above. It wouldn't be too hard or expensive. I think I'm stuck with the double and triple wall that is in the ceiling and through the roof. I assume it is 6" as well. I'll have to check it out next time I'm up there. Unless of course it is a safety issue.

Does everyone else agree with Rich's dealer that it is best to go 8" as far as possible if you are forced into a reducer?

Thanks in advance.

Scrounge

 

[Rich L]

Yo,my last post was a repeat somehow however I meant to say if you don't have a pipe damper in and your draft is strong once the fire is going put one in.This will increased the heat output and heat time significantly.Just burn it hot daily due to the increased creosote that will occur from the shut down burns.Another thing I don't think this stove has a cat.I don't remember if I had to engage the Cat.just the pipe damper me thinks???????????

Thanks Rich.

After reading more on this forum I was wondering about a flue damper with my setup. However I'm already concerned about the flue being too small. Would it make since to put a damper in one that is already undersized?

Since I was wrong about this stove being a Cat.or not and since it is a Cat. I'd get the Cat.installed and wait on the damper.The Cat maybe all you need.The damper calls for a very strong draft and since your undersized the draft may not be strong enough for the damper to work.I have an 8'' flue on my Blaze King and it's going into a 6'' at the ceiling then through the roof.My knowledgeable dealer said it can work however the 8" pipe should run from the stove all the way to the increaser or reducer which attaches to the pipe going through the roof.I did this and it works fine with a strong draft.

thanks for the advice Rich. I think I will go with the cat first and see how it works. Does the cat increase burn temps or just efficiency and burn times?

Would you agree that I need to find out what my max safe temp is before I get it much over 600 stove top temp? Or do I still have some leeway? I don't think I would want it much over that anyway just due to room temp comfort level.

It's good to hear that a professional told you the reduction is okay.

I can see replacing my 6" single wall up to the ceiling. Photo above. It wouldn't be too hard or expensive. I think I'm stuck with the double and triple wall that is in the ceiling and through the roof. I assume it is 6" as well. I'll have to check it out next time I'm up there. Unless of course it is a safety issue.

Does everyone else agree with Rich's dealer that it is best to go 8" as far as possible if you are forced into a reducer?

Thanks in advance.

Scrounge

Man Scrounge that's a good run of pipe.Ya,go on and put in the 8" pipe going into the 6" going through the roof.The draft will be much better and if you have any downdraft problems install the Vacu-Stack chimney cap.I did and now my draft roars like a freight train.Most manuals say that if your inside pipe can connect straight up with no bends that is the best draft.It looks as if your hearth could extended out furthur you could move the stove directly under the external pipe.Definitely more work however you should work just fine as is with the pipe change and the Cat.installed.Even just putting in the 8" should produced a better operation and even better when the Cat.is installed.If the Cat. doesn't arrive for some time will you be able to at least install the piping before the cold weather leaves? That way we can hear about the results.Well the best hook up is 8" all the way up and through the roof however the 8" to 6" reducer going into the 6" through the roof works well for me.

 

[ROYJ24]

Hearthstone I (trying to post a picture)

Isee u have the beast caged in. :bug:

 

[TreePapa]

Hearthstone I (trying to post a picture)

Isee u have the beast caged in. :bug:

My guess woudl be that is to keep small kiddies away from the stove, since the dogs would prolly figger it out for themselves.

Peace,
- Sequoia

 

[karri0n]

I too like the stove cage. That's a nice hearth.