Anyone ever warp a combuster scoop on a Fireview?

[pinewoodburner]

Was looking into the window of the Fireview last night as I was burning looking up at the cat. I noticed that the metal plate at the Bottom plate at the top of the stove looked warped. This is the plate under the Cat. I looked at the diagram for the stove and this is the called the combustor scoop. I called Woodstock this morning to see if it was a concern and she said that they have changed the material from cast iron to stainless steel. It is a $45 replacement. I asked if I should continue to burn and was told if it is only slightly warped finish the season out and replace this summer. This is only my 3rd season with this stove and the high temperature I have seen on top of the stove is 650. You may want to check out your stove if you have a Fireview, I also noticed they have gone to a stainless steel cat. Woodstock did not seem surprised that this part is warping. They still have great customer service.

 

[branchburner]

When I bought my semi-deceased Fireview, the whole cat assembly had warped itself into multiple separate pieces. I believe the previous owner, and perhaps explosives, had something to do with that.

I can only imagine how much that $45 piece might cost from other companies (maybe like Harman). $145? $245? You can still order a Rutland flue thermometer from Woodstock for ten bucks.

 

[Slow1]

Very interesting - My first thought when I read the subject line was "what the heck is a combuster scoop?" I think I do know what the piece is now - face it there aren't that many pieces that could warp in the stove to choose from, especially limited to those you can see through the window eh?

Where is it warped and how much? I don't suppose you could post a picture? I'm really curious about this.

And I agree with Branchburner - I don't think that the folks at Woodstock see spare parts as a profit center given the prices they charge. Then again, I have no idea how much it costs to source that part - maybe they do make a hefty profit selling at $45.

 

[pinewoodburner]

I will try and take a picture tonight. It is the metal plate at the top of the firebox. It sits under the cat and protects the cat from the direct flame. Woodstoce said this piece takes all the abuse from the heat to protect the cat. Maybe that is why they went from cast iron to stainless steel. It is only one bolt to take it out and replace.

 

[Flatbedford]

Here's a parts diagram from the Woodstock website.
http://www.woodstove.com/pages/images//partssupportimg0709/FV205-Internal.gif
I think mine is warped too. Can you see it hanging down through the very top of the window?

 

[Slow1]

I imagine it would have to be some pretty impressive warping to be seen 'hanging down through the very top of the window.'

At the very top of the window (at the peak) I can see the "air chute W-172" going across the top of the glass. It has been this way from day 1 for me.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

When I bought my semi-deceased Fireview, the whole cat assembly had warped itself into multiple separate pieces. I believe the previous owner, and perhaps explosives, had something to do with that.

I can only imagine how much that $45 piece might cost from other companies (maybe like Harman). $145? $245? You can still order a Rutland flue thermometer from Woodstock for ten bucks.

I believe those thermometers are Condar rather than Rutland. I've had some other Rutlands and they were junk but the thermometers I bought from Woodstock are good ones.

As for the warping scoop, that does seem odd. I'm wondering if when you engage the cat if you are leaving the draft set full open or if you dial down the draft before engaging. This might have some bearing on that part.

btw, we always do dial down the draft before engaging the cat. No problem.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I will try and take a picture tonight. It is the metal plate at the top of the firebox. It sits under the cat and protects the cat from the direct flame. Woodstoce said this piece takes all the abuse from the heat to protect the cat. Maybe that is why they went from cast iron to stainless steel. It is only one bolt to take it out and replace.

I do not think this had any bearing on Woodstock changing to the new ss cats. They've been looking at them for some time and the testing had proven good so they simply switched. These are said to last longer and because you can engage the cat sooner, any dampness should not bother these as much as the other cats. I'll be getting one of those when ours needs changing and I'm looking forward to it.

 

[pinewoodburner]

When I bought my semi-deceased Fireview, the whole cat assembly had warped itself into multiple separate pieces. I believe the previous owner, and perhaps explosives, had something to do with that.

I can only imagine how much that $45 piece might cost from other companies (maybe like Harman). $145? $245? You can still order a Rutland flue thermometer from Woodstock for ten bucks.

I believe those thermometers are Condar rather than Rutland. I've had some other Rutlands and they were junk but the thermometers I bought from Woodstock are good ones.

As for the warping scoop, that does seem odd. I'm wondering if when you engage the cat if you are leaving the draft set full open or if you dial down the draft before engaging. This might have some bearing on that part.

btw, we always do dial down the draft before engaging the cat. No problem.

I always engage the cat after the air control is at 1 for about 15 min. Never over fired the stove as far as I know. Highest temp that I have seen is 650. The piece is not warped very bad, maybe 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. Woodstock said that it is not a problem yet and that no need to replace it this season. I was looking at it last night and just noticed that the metal was not flat anymore, slight sag in the middle. Can not get a good picture of it. Sorry

 

[KevinG]

My combustor scoop is warped as well. It was that way when I bought the stove and I have no idea how the previous owner ran the stove. Although based on the creosote streak along the back and side of the stove, it's safe to say the stove wasn't ran properly.

The 1/4 to 1/2" of sag doesn't seem to negatively affect the stove operation at all. Except when trying to squeeze that last piece into the firebox on full loads. Perhaps I'll replace it next year.

 

[Slow1]

My combustor scoop is warped as well. It was that way when I bought the stove and I have no idea how the previous owner ran the stove. Although based on the creosote streak along the back and side of the stove, it's safe to say the stove wasn't ran properly.

The 1/4 to 1/2" of sag doesn't seem to negatively affect the stove operation at all. Except when trying to squeeze that last piece into the firebox on full loads. Perhaps I'll replace it next year.

If you have a bit of time I'd suggest you give the folks at Woodstock a call. I really don't think they will try to 'upsell' you anything you don't need and they may well advise you to do exactly what you are doing anyway, but set your mind at ease that you are doing the 'right' thing. Also given you don't know the history but have some clues from that streak - perhaps they can point you to other things to look for to be sure you are running safely and efficiently.

 

[WarmInIowa]

I just found this thread after realizing mine is severly warped. It has a hole in it. Stove in on its 4th winter. It generally runs between 400-550F on top. Is is not over-fired, and the damper is ususally set at .8 - 1.2 15 minutes after loading wood when the stove is warm. As you can see in the attached pic it actually developed a hole in the past couple weeks. Now the catylitic converter may be toast. I'll find out when the stove cools tomorrow.
I know how hot is has to be to melt cast iron, and I am very religious about watching the stove. I'm wondering if there is a different issue here.

 

[Todd]

I also saw your other post on this. Mine warped the first season and it always seemed like I had too much draft cuz I could still burn with plenty of flame at 0. Found out the air slide was off track in the back and was letting in too much air. I took a screw driver and pushed it back in place and it instantly made a huge difference. Or it could be you just got a bad piece of cast. That new stainless scoop should do much better from the looks of it. Also check all the other cast parts and gaskets, hopefully nothing else is damaged.