Anyone install ductwork with a blower to bring heat into distant room?

[Hubjeep]

Hey hotjeep, what did you end up doing? ducting? or just a fan on the floor???

Nothing, back room ended up being only about 8* less than the living room!

 

[Don2222]

Hello

See installed ductwork fan in this post.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/71518/

 

[xjcamaro89]

I was also really contiplating this idea. My room where the stove is regularly gets up to 75-80* when run it in the dead of winter. In the picture the red block is the stove, and the tiny blue block is the thermostat for the furnace, i use it to tell me how warm it is back there. When the stove is running good it will hold the temp at the thermostat at or around 65*. But back in the back rooms is probably 60*. I would like to up that. I was thinking about running rigid duct work (grey in the picture) from the ceiling in the stove room, through the attic to the ceiling in the hallway between the two bedrooms, and put a inline fan in the duct work. Im guessing the duct work would have to be about 25-30ft long. Is that distance through the cold attic too long of a run to where the air would cool down too much before it got to the exit, even if i insulate the duct work?

 

[Don2222]

Hello

My suggestion would be to not bother with the attic and build a soffit or chase down the hallway with registers in front of each room to pull warm air. If you add dampers to the Y connection to each register in the soffit or chase, then you can equalize the air flow to warm up all the rooms.

See yellow arrow pointing to damper adjuster levers below:

 

[pyper]

Mine looks like this:

The stove is the red star. The blue square is the location of the return duct. I cut a hole in the duct and put a 150 cfm exhaust fan in the hole. So there's no duct -- just a blower in a hole between the rooms.

Before: The room with the stove would be mid 70s, and the back bedroom would be maybe 58.
After: the back bedroom would be maybe 63. There's a big difference between 58 and 63, but I really though it would make more difference.

Blowing the cold air from that back room (middle top of the drawing) might make more difference overall in the house, but the big rooms on the left don't need the heat.

We bought a new house, so I'm just going to fix the hole in the duct and forget about it, but if I ever do something like this again, I'll be going with a bigger blower.

 

[Don2222]

Mine looks like this:

The stove is the red star. The blue square is the location of the return duct. I cut a hole in the duct and put a 150 cfm exhaust fan in the hole. So there's no duct -- just a blower in a hole between the rooms.

Before: The room with the stove would be mid 70s, and the back bedroom would be maybe 58.
After: the back bedroom would be maybe 63. There's a big difference between 58 and 63, but I really though it would make more difference.

Blowing the cold air from that back room (middle top of the drawing) might make more difference overall in the house, but the big rooms on the left don't need the heat.

We bought a new house, so I'm just going to fix the hole in the duct and forget about it, but if I ever do something like this again, I'll be going with a bigger blower.

It is not really the blower size but it is the temperature of the air. I can tell you from experience that when I connected a similar hole with a fan in it directly to the stove with rigid ductwork the temp of the air in the ductwork went from 80 Degrees to 150 Degrees

In the Laura & Veronica, there is the possibility to adjust the front and back air delivery by adjusting a lever.

More info on Ecoteck Laura 11kW Ducted Stove
Ducted Heating with wood pellets
Wood pellets are one of the few truly environmentally friendly ways to heat. Ducted stoves have a two extra warm air outputs at the rear of the unit and these can be connected to aluminum ducts routed other rooms in the property. A simple mechanical flap controls the ratio of air coming into the main room compared with the air being diverted to the back. All wood pellet stoves require a 13amp electrical connection. see pic below:

 

[PapaDave]

I was also really contiplating this idea. My room where the stove is regularly gets up to 75-80* when run it in the dead of winter. In the picture the red block is the stove, and the tiny blue block is the thermostat for the furnace, i use it to tell me how warm it is back there. When the stove is running good it will hold the temp at the thermostat at or around 65*. But back in the back rooms is probably 60*. I would like to up that. I was thinking about running rigid duct work (grey in the picture) from the ceiling in the stove room, through the attic to the ceiling in the hallway between the two bedrooms, and put a inline fan in the duct work. Im guessing the duct work would have to be about 25-30ft long. Is that distance through the cold attic too long of a run to where the air would cool down too much before it got to the exit, even if i insulate the duct work?

xj, My stove room is an ell off the the main house/living room with a 6' opening between. Previous owners put a register in the stove room ceiling, 10" boot and insulated duct about 25-30' to just before the kitchen. There, it has an inline duct blower, and a reducer Y to 8". One of those 8" flex ducts goes to the bathroom, and one to the kitchen. All is insulated, and it's controlled with a dimmer. Works very well to pull warm air from the stove room, and sometimes a little too well.
I've thought to pull the one in the kitchen, and extend to the back bedroom (it has no heat), but that room stays about 60 most of the time. If I did that, it would be reduced to 6" to help maintain velocity.
HTH