Anyone use a "whip" when blocking

Ok, I'm bored today.
When I first started cutting wood, my buddy put a whip on my saw because I was too inconsistent with the lengths. Anyone use a whip when cutting firewood. ??

I dont most of the wood I do is over 45 in rounds so I cut where i can.(if your not consistent it would be a good tool)

I use a " trip whip ". :cheese: Wood advances on conveyor, hits trip whip (gate), stops conveyor and starts saw into cut simutaneously, wood falls ,resets whip and process starts over again. ;-)

you got any videos of that sounds cool?

I use the distance from the side handle to bar tip when bucking out in the bush. When processing wood in the yard on skids, I use a measuring stick with notches on it. For smaller stuff, I use a sawbuck.

I use the "aaaand that's about right...that's about right...that's about right...that's about right" method. Get's me close enough to what I need.

I am to cheap to buy one, so a little heavy duty plastic banding, electrical tape, and a hose clamp.


http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i208/andre_b/House Stuff/Sawgage1.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i208/andre_b/House Stuff/Sawgage2.jpg

http://i73.photobucket.com/albums/i208/andre_b/House Stuff/Sawgage3.jpg

I've been thinking about making one. Looks to simple to buy one.

I heard they're not very durable.
I've heard good thing about this: http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=265&catID;=

I am curious about what it is you are talking about, I'm not able to view the pics on Andre B's post. Anyone else have a pic or description?

This stupid board strips out the %20 and puts in spaces. Just copy/paste the whole line.

Here are TinyURL renditions:
http://tinyurl.com/6wcjgj
http://tinyurl.com/9jjf9y
http://tinyurl.com/7qygbb

I used a whip one day when the wife simply didn't want to work....

The commercial whips I've seen go on the other side of the saw and look like they'd be more trouble than they're worth.

If you're into high tech gadgetry, you could mount two laser pointers and have them converge at the distance you want from the nose of the bar. Just don't use it near an airport.

On the small stuff, I just eyeball it. When I get into anything ~12"+ diameter, I have a mark on the saw body, so I know that from the tip of the bar to the mark is the length I want to cut. Only takes about a second to flip the saw sideways, see where the marks fall, then flip it back to cutting position and let her rip.

Thanks bud. This looks like a good idea, I have a bit of trouble with length when cutting from large trees, the rounds get a little longer than I would like them.

Check these out from Baileys http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=47150&catID=14

I use a simple 17.5" "T" shaped piece of 1/2" PVC pipe left over from some plumbing and a grease pencil, I fell the tree, limb the tree then start at the base and go to marking with the grease pencil and "T". then I cut it on the marks, I don't feel it takes any longer than the "looks about right" method, and it is cheaper than the markers that take $5 a can marking paint, and it is not saw mounted so I can use any saw I have on the fly no switching things from one saw to the other.

You can also make something from scrap. For example you could have a 16" piece (or what length you want) of old moulding or something similar. Start at the butt, lay the marker down and just score a line at the end of the marker with an ax.

Do you have something longer? How about a 4' length notched at 16" and 32" and you can mark 3 cuts before moving the marker. Quick, easy and cheap.

I have an 80 inch long stick with notches every 20 inches. I lay out a dozen or so logs on skids, place the measure stick in the middle, and score marks across all the logs every 20 inches.

Not as cheap but I use surveyor paint (upside down can) and a precut stick the length of wood I would like and work my way down the log pile. Generally I can mark up to 3 or 4 logs on one pass down the pile then I run the saw full bore non stop, this has been the fastest and most consistent for me. It has a slight advantage over the lumber crayon in that you can squirt a spot in tight places. I have tried using a whip but I think it slows bucking down too much.

I'm happy if I'm anywhere between 16" and 18". I check against a mark on the bar every so often to see if I'm in range. I burn most of my wood, so it seems a waste to spend too much time measuring it. :coolsmirk:

Except when it ends up a little too long for the stove and has to be recut

If I hold a piece of sidewalk chalk like I hold a pencil, the distance from my elbow to the chalk tip is 16 inches. I just put my elbow in the line and make a mark, then on to the next mark.