Appalled At My Maul - Stihl PA 80

I'm trying to get some guidance about my really recently purchased Stihl PA 80 Maul. I spent some time researching this purchase and my three top choices were this Stihl Maul (which has an Ox Head axe head on it) , the Ox Head Maul (with the same axe head but some special system that ties the handle to the head), and then the Gransfors Bruks Maul.

I went with the Stihl thinking that I should stop overthinking a maul of all things, and also that paying over $100 for a maul is probably pretty insane. Well the reason that I'm "appalled with my maul" is that literally the first time I used it (for only few hours) the head started to loosen! Maybe I'm spoiled since I've only ever used Fiskars axes where the heads are always tight, but, swinging something that weighs 6 plus pounds with a super sharp blade that isn't tight sorta scares me!

I guess I've got a few questions for people with more maul experience...
1. Is the problem I'm reporting a problem?
2. Will all mauls eventually loosen up or do the special systems the Ox-Head and Gransfors Bruks mauls use with the steel sleeve inserted into the head help to prevent this problem?
3. Should I return this maul and shell out something like $100 more for one of the other two?

Thanks.

Either fix it or return it. A loose head will only get more loose and can be a danger.

I would return it. It will continue to loosen. I have a Lowes/Tru-Temper 8lb maul that split almost 20 cord before I went hydraulic. It is still as tight as when new. Standard wooden handle hardware store type maul. Probably cost less than $30 brand new.

I never liked mauls and would never drop that much coin on one. Before going hydraulic at age 50, I did all my splitting with a 3-1/2 lb axe with a nice curved handle. Put that coin toward a powered splitter.

I have never owned a maul. The axe did the job when I used to beat on wood. Long curved handle and swing it like a cave man.

I'm happy with my maul, but looked at the PA 80. I searched online for ANYBODY who had experiences with it and came up empty handed. I wasn't in a position to drop that kind of cash on a maul for the sake of curiosity.

The head should not be loose. I'd take it back and get a new one. if you still aren't pleased with it, then take it back for a refund. this is Stihl, we are talking about here. I'd hope they'd be willing to work with you, but i dunno.

Please keep us posted.

A loose head on a new maul is a problem. I would get a replacement from the seller.

If it has a wood handle with a standard wedge you could get laughed out of the store if you tried to bring it back.

http://www.househandle.com/images/raw9_28_11/axeWedgePackWP-3.jpg

At a hunert bucks and brand new they would only be laughing at the guy that now looks like a Popsicle.

I don't think the OP paid $100 for the Stihl model. The others mentioned though are more than $100. I don't get your "looks like a Popsicle" comment. Got a pic?

No.

I've been offered a replacement or a refund for a splitting axe with a standard wedge. If the head comes loose on the first day then it was not properly hung at the factory. A reputable business will take care of it.

I have one of these mauls - and it was the one of the best purchases I have ever made.

Re: loose head. Return it. Mine is still tight as new even after three years of very hard use and abuse.

I, too, used axes for over 30 years. I was a fool. I even keep it handy when my brother-in-law is here with his hydraulic splitter to finish up the odd piece of gnarly oak that will not split clean.

I can split normal size pieces faster with this maul than I can with a splitter. I just can't do it as long.

Caveat: Your mileage will vary. The 6.6 lb. weight of this maul is perfect for me. For others it will be too heavy, and for some it will not be heavy enough.

In the winter with low humidity, wood dries out & shrinks & handles get loose.
Soak in with some boiled linseed oil t swell the wood up, add a wedge or 2 to tighten it up.
should be fine after that.
Another "moisture content of wood" issue.

PA 80:

Let me add that, IME, an axe is a very dangerous tool for splitting- tendency to target shin-bone for starters.

I too have found that the sweet-spot for maul-head weight is ~6 lb. Much harder to get enough speed with 8/+ lb, and 8/+ lb is harder to control.

I would take another risk and try a Fiskars X27. All us guys aren't running them on this board cuz they suck. They have a lifetime guarantee as well.

I Agree! I also need to work on my sig line soon because I already have the Fiskars X27, as well as their X25, the "Pro-Splitting-Axe" ( I don't think there's a number to that one), a small hatchet, two machetes and an assortment of tools for the yard. I really like their tools.

Actually in all honesty after working with this maul for a few hours I don't think that it split large stuff any better than the X27 ! I guess I was expecting the extra width and weight to help but I think in reality my ability to swing the X27 faster, along with all the angles of the head, along with my ability to be much more accurate made it either a draw or a win for the X27. The other thing though, in fairness is that with the Stihl's head sort of starting to wobble I wasn't really working it as hard as possible; it was just too unnerving.

Like I wrote above, I've only ever used Fiskars axes so I didn't know if this is something "all other axes" do or not. I already called the Stihl dealer to tell what I'm worried about and they asked me to bring it in so we'll see. I'll report back on that one and again I'd like to ask if anyone here has the Gransfors Bruks maul and can compare something like that to the X27? Thanks as always.

I have not seen a Gransfors up close but I don't think it has anything special WRT how the handle is wedged into the eye of the head. I'm pretty sure the metal sleeve is just meant to protect the handle from wayward blows and not to enhance the connection.

Every axe I ever owned needed some care and attention WRT the wood handle loosening in the eye. Before I learned that one should not leave an axe leaning against the splitting block with the head on damp ground, they would need much more attention. Soaking them in water was the wrong thing to do and just made them worse when they dried out. Soaking in oil is much better.

If you have buyer's remorse and the Stihl dealer is willing to refund your purchase to keep a happy customer, I'd say go for it. I agree that a handle should not loosen on day one. It either had to have been stored improperly or the handle was not dry enough when it was set.

Mauls are my favorite topic.

I use mine regular to refresh the wood pile and manufacture shrapnel.

Cost is a major issue with these things. They are, of course, a 'consumable' item notwithstanding a particular manufacturer's representation. For that reason I use a Craftsman 6lb maul. I don't have problems with the head loosening because, in my experience, the head typically splits in half long before the handle comes loose.

If you need something more durable, the Council Tool in North Carolina makes a decent product.
http://www.counciltool.com/

While the the redneck-built mauls don't come with a lifetime warranty that is usable, their mauls are, in my experience much more difficult to destroy than the crap that Craftsman buys in Mexico. That said, I'm fairly confident that I will destroy the 8lb maul I've bought from them are some point.

I would never go near a Stihl, and am skeptical of the Fiskars evangelicals. And if I ever paid anywhere near $100 bucks for a maul, the missus would most certainly use it on my skull...

Force = mass X acceleration. I can't swing a 10 lb. maul very fast - some can - so I do not get much acceleration. I can swing the Stihl maul nearly as fast as an ax, but it has at least twice the mass - so more force. I split mostly hickory and white oak, 20" - 23" long. When I whack one of those rounds with the Stihl something usually gives; the impact is incredible.

Then you have had poor experiences or poor form. A long handled axe will have the same trajectory as a maul. The only difference between the axe and an X27 is the head design. Why would one target something that the other does not - is beyond me.

Update:

I took the maul to the Stihl dealer today. As always they were polite and professional. They agreed that the maul loosened up way too much and way too fast. They admitted that all mauls eventually loosen a little but not that much or that fast. They offered to warranty the axe without any worry and I could choose replace or refund. I chose refund as I actually don't think the maul helped me much more than the terrific X27 for the fat stuff and also as I now know that there is no realistic way I would swing any axe with a loose head loosening over my own head! That was totally unsettling. If someone were to write that the Gransfors is really so superior to the Fiskars I might spring but shy of that option I'll probably just stick with swinging the Fiskars. Thanks for all the advice.

You know as with all wood handled tools...from time to time you HAVE to put a shim in them. Nature of the beast...Besides...that Stihl looks more Narley than any of those Fiskars. I think I'll buy one.

@ MarkinNC...you would be surprised as to how much influence people can have when they say something is good or bad. And they don't even have experience with the product. I'm in the aviation industry. The type of plane being purchased has alot to do with what others are buying. Could be junk. Hmmm! I do know there's one video from a guy who says that the metal on the Fiskars are very soft and you have to constantly sharpen them.

Sorry guys but this seems like serious overthinking to me..

Had a 6lb wooden handle for about 10yrs and put up with broken and replacement handles.

Don't remember what year but I finally spent about $30 for an 8lb generic maul with a fiberglass handle.

At least 50 cords later it's working fine.

Learn a swing, that's more important.