Appliance connector?

[RedGuy]

I just recived my liner kit and I noticed the appliance connector fits as a male conecton on my wood stove, is this correct? I know that all pipe connections are supposed to point towards the stove, but I thought the connection to the stove would go over the collar on the stove so it could be clamped down, thus giving a good seal and connection. If this male conection is correct how is it secured to the stoves collar and sealed?

 

[Rudyjr]

The male end goes into the stove collar and is held in place with three screws. This picture shows what it should look like.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

It is also good to put furnace cement around the crimp. Then insert and clean (with a wet cloth). Then put in the 3 screws.

 

[RedGuy]

Ok, good that's the way that I just (FINALLY) got it in. I ended up having to use an ajustable elbow to connect the stove to the appliance connector as my stove outlet is offset about 8 inches from the strait line chimney run. The Flex King Pro I got with the insulation installed simply was not flexible enough to make the bend, even though it had about 18 inches above it for the bend. In all reality a 15 deg elbow would have worked but an adjustable was what Lowes had. Looks better anyways as now you can't see the stainless, it starts just out of sight! I didn't use any stove cement, as I'd never heard of it, should it seal fine without it?

 

[RedGuy]

The male end goes into the stove collar and is held in place with three screws. This picture shows what it should look like.

BTW, do you have a stove in the fireplace as I'm doing? Seems not many people do this, but I prefer the look over an insert. I'll have to get some pics once I clean the mess up LOL.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Redguy, I've always thought the connector was a bit loose. Regardless, I always use furnace cement. It is cheap too. Go to a hardware for it. You might be able to get it in a tube but our hardware just carries it in a cup. We put it on with a putty knife. Cleans off easy with a wet rag. Also read on the container and it will say it needs to be cured which is done really quick and easy.

 

[BrotherBart]

I burn in a free standing stove half in and half out of a fireplace. A bit of advice. Plan on changing out that elbow next summer. Order you a fifteen or thirty degree, as needed, stainless steel non-adjustable elbow to replace the appliance adapter and elbow with. That black pipe elbow won't last a real long time but a stainless one should last as long as the liner.

If you haven't trimmed that liner up top yet leave an allowance for when you make the change.

 

[RedGuy]

Mines actually really tight, I can't twist it at all. Can the cement be applied after connecting? It was a real PITA to get it in the stove, I'd hate to do it all over again.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

If its that tight, forget it and just screw it in.

 

[RedGuy]

I burn in a free standing stove half in and half out of a fireplace. A bit of advice. Plan on changing out that elbow next summer. Order you a fifteen or thirty degree, as needed, stainless steel non-adjustable elbow to replace the appliance adapter and elbow with. That black pipe elbow won't last a real long time but a stainless one should last as long as the liner.

If you haven't trimmed that liner up top yet leave an allowance for when you make the change.

I haven't trimmed the top yet, ran outa daylight. I planned on finishing the top tommorrow. Howmany inches do you thing the differance will be?

 

[cmonSTART]

Straight appliance connectors are a pain in the rear. Usually I opt for a 30 degree elbow connector instead.

 

[Rudyjr]

If everything fits tight it will be o.k. without the furnace cement. But as was mentioned before plan on getting the correct stainless elbow.

 

[RedGuy]

If its that tight, forget it and just screw it in.

Perfect!

 

[BrotherBart]

Leave about two inches more than the length of the appliance connector. That should make up for it not being there and the fact that the fixed elbow will be a little shorter than an adjustable one.

Hang onto any overage that you trim off in case you need it.

 

[RedGuy]

Leave about two inches more than the length of the appliance connector. That should make up for it not being there and the fact that the fixed elbow will be a little shorter than an adjustable one.

Hang onto any overage that you trim off in case you need it.

Thankyou, and I'm one of those people that don't throw anything away so the leftovers will probably sit in my barn for the next 30 years LOL.

 

[BrotherBart]

Thankyou, and I'm one of those people that don't throw anything away so the leftovers will probably sit in my barn for the next 30 years LOL.

I hear ya. I am sixty three and have finally realized that all of those projects from 1987-on are never going to get done. So I am now hauling stuff to the landfill by the trailer load. But all of the extra stove and pipe stuff will be here for the estate sale.

 

[BrotherBart]

Please put what stove you have in your signature line. Helps with future questions.

 

[RedGuy]

Will do

 

[BobMac]

If want to try something easier than the appliance adpater,try the cast iron boot (http://www.efireplacestore.com/cpf-20060.html)
just crimp the end of the liner and screw it to the boot,3m some foil face insulation to the top of the insert and the weight of the
liner and the cast iron boot hold it in place.

 

[RedGuy]

I don't believe that would work for my application as I don't actually have an insert, but rather a free standing woodstove inserted into a fireplace.

 

[BrotherBart]

I don't believe that would work for my application as I don't actually have an insert, but rather a free standing woodstove inserted into a fireplace.

Yeah you want the SS elbow. My old boot like that one is sitting on top of my old stove out back holding up the pipe for it to be a meat smoker. A real waste of a hundred bucks but that is a whole nother story.