Are my teeth crooked?

[Soundchasm]

OK, I had to get there first.^^ I've been doing my own filing on my 16" Husky 435. I've been through a bunch of big rounds over the last two years where I just open up the throttle and stand there for a while. I sharpen (the husky file/guide/kit) after a few tanks or a really big day. I'm a southpaw, and it looks like I'm hitting the teeth harder on one side than the other.

Since I noticed, I'm trying to go back the other way. Should I keep trying to even them out or is it time for a new chain? The photos are of the worst difference. Thanks!

 

[mstoelton]

I think it is time for a new chain. Amicks sells the chains (oregon) for that saw pretty cheap - I think $10.99. here is a link http://www.amickssuperstore.com/Oregon_91VXL052G_Chain_p/oregon 91vxl52.htm

 

[Jags]

First question - does it cut a straight line?

 

[Soundchasm]

First question - does it cut a straight line?

It actually does. It doesn't cut like a new chain, if I even remember what that's like, but it doesn't cut like a dull chain - that I remember! I better get a spare chain or two into inventory regardless. If I've legitimately worn out a chain I'm going to get a perverse sense of satisfaction out of that.

 

[Clarkbug]

If its cutting straight, throwing chips, and not vibrating or chattering, you are all good. I wouldn't change what you are doing, even if the teeth are different lengths.

You can run them until the teeth come off if you want. But wouldn't hurt to get a new one and save this for a dirty/nail filled/fence line tree. That way if you kill some teeth, you were already almost to the end.

(And your chain goes out "with its boots on")

 

[Jags]

It actually does.

Then fugetaboutit. Simply try and adjust your pressure difference from left/right on any new chains.

 

[Soundchasm]

(And your chain goes out "with its boots on")

That gave me a GOOD laugh! Thank you.

 

[Soundchasm]

Then fugetaboutit. Simply try and adjust your pressure difference from left/right on any new chains.

If this chain cuts wood and serves as an instructional aid, how much better can it get? I'm headed out to noodle nearby knots now.

 

[TreePointer]

I often find if a chain looks to be sharpened correctly but isn't cutting quite as effectively as it shoud, then the depth gauges/rakers need to be addressed.

When the teeth are filed back as far as your chain shows, many of the depth gauge tools for checking raker height can not be relied upon for indicating that they are too high.

 

[Soundchasm]

I often find if a chain looks to be sharpened correctly but isn't cutting quite as effectively as it shoud, then the depth gauges/rakers need to be addressed.

When the teeth are filed back as far as your chain shows, many of the depth gauge tools for checking raker height can not be relied upon for indicating that they are too high.

Whoa, you are some kind of Swami! A week or two ago I used the guide to check the rakers and NONE of them "needed" to be filed. That seems unusual for as many times as I've filed these teeth, I thought... So apparently ALL of them needed to be filed. Some days there's no greater thing than the internet. Thanks. This turns out to be a big day for putting stuff in my brain.

 

[TreePointer]

...or you need a new chain.

Maybe more information than you wanted, but a good detailed discussion nonetheless:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

Set a straight edge on top of two consecutive teeth and measure the raker depth from the straight edge with a feeler gauge. This will give you an idea of where your rakers are and how far you may want to file them down.

 

[Rickb]

Saw a really good guide for chain sharpening that covered this issue. It showed that if you notice you tend to sharpen unevenly then reduce the strokes on the 1 side or increase the other side. So on your strong side maybe you only do 2 passes then on the other side maybe you do 3 or 4 each time. I have tried this method and found my chain seems better this spring since I started doing it.

 

[BrotherBart]

If you sharpen unevenly, just sharpen one side then turn the dang saw over and sharpen the other side. Works best with the bar in a bench vice.

 

[Soundchasm]

...or you need a new chain.

Maybe more information than you wanted, but a good detailed discussion nonetheless:
http://www.arboristsite.com/communi...ly-progressive-depth-raker-generators.114624/

Set a straight edge on top of two consecutive teeth and measure the raker depth from the straight edge with a feeler gauge. This will give you an idea of where your rakers are and how far you may want to file them down.

That's a heck of a thread. Coincidentally, I have a straightedge and feeler gauges I use to set the action on guitars. That's also a confluence of interacting factors.

I do use a bench-vise (and bifocals ) . I got impatient and thought I'd try to learn using both hands instead of turning the saw around. But I am really left-hand dominant. But now that I've seen it, I'll make it work in an ambidextrous fashion, more accurately portrayed as can't do anything with either hand. I'll start with less passes on the strong side. And I'll take a look at the depth gauges. But I'll order new chains as well. This saw has served me so well that it really does merit this kind of attention.

 

[Jags]

I couldn't imagine changing hands while hand sharpening. That would throw me off big time. Do as BroB stated and you will eliminate the issue.