Asbestos concrete chimney

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The transite pipe is, except for the basement ceiling, at least two inches from any surface, except at the rood surface.
Looks like that's the only place it is touching and with good access from the 1st floor that can be opened up for a ceiling support box.
 
I wondered how that pipe is being supported too.
 
I wondered how that pipe is being supported too.

There are metal straps on it. I have a good view of it from the attic. I wondered too. The couplers on it are 12" wide.

Am I willing to bet my home on it? Not sure. If I can keep all combustibles several inches away from it, and I can fit double-walled through it cleanly, I may try it, monitor temps... if I worry then I move it to the location used by the previous owner. Before I would do it though I want to read and research more about the science - if I can find it.

I find it puzzling that naked metal would be appropriate, but not metal wrapped in concrete/asbestos. All I can figure at this point is 4" of masonry would be harder to heat up, while the tube I have would warm up faster due to lower mass and result in hotter temps in the metal? This would be good for draw, but perhaps bad for some other reason?
 
I can fit double-walled through it cleanly,
What do you mean by double wall?

I find it puzzling that naked metal would be appropriate,
It is not naked metal at all. It is a chimney system which has an inner wall then insulation then an outer wall. Then you need 2" clearance to combustibles from that outer wall. Most have 1" of insulation between the walls but some have 1/2" of insulation then another metal wall then a ventilated airspace then another wall.
 
All I can figure at this point is 4" of masonry would be harder to heat up, while the tube I have would warm up faster due to lower mass and result in hotter temps in the metal? This would be good for draw, but perhaps bad for some other reason?
No it is all about heat transfer through that masonry and heat will transfer through that thin masonry much faster than 4" Which means it will get much hotter on the outside and could be dangerous.

Again it could be just fine but if you do it and anything happens your insurance company will look at it see it did not meet the requirements and your claim could be denied.
 
What do you mean by double wall?


It is not naked metal at all. It is a chimney system which has an inner wall then insulation then an outer wall. Then you need 2" clearance to combustibles from that outer wall. Most have 1" of insulation between the walls but some have 1/2" of insulation then another metal wall then a ventilated airspace then another wall.

Sorry, I meant that there was nothing between the metal and the home; I understand that the chimney system is insulated.
 
No it is all about heat transfer through that masonry and heat will transfer through that thin masonry much faster than 4" Which means it will get much hotter on the outside and could be dangerous.

Again it could be just fine but if you do it and anything happens your insurance company will look at it see it did not meet the requirements and your claim could be denied.

I understand this good advice. But I am intrigued by the possibility that what I am pondering would be possibly safer, cheaper and more efficient than a code compliant model that hasn't been tested because it isn't common.
 
But I am intrigued by the possibility that what I am pondering would be possibly safer, cheaper and more efficient than a code compliant model that hasn't been tested because it isn't common.
What would make it safer or more efficient?

Sorry, I meant that there was nothing between the metal and the home; I understand that the chimney system is insulated.
And if you can fit a chimney system inside your pipe you would be just fine as long as you have the required 2" between the outside of the stainless chimney and any combustible material. It would not matter at all if it was inside that pipe. But I thought you were still talking about a liner which even an insulated one would not be good enough because you don't have what they consider a usable chimney.
 
What would make it safer or more efficient?


And if you can fit a chimney system inside your pipe you would be just fine as long as you have the required 2" between the outside of the stainless chimney and any combustible material. It would not matter at all if it was inside that pipe. But I thought you were still talking about a liner which even an insulated one would not be good enough because you don't have what they consider a usable chimney.

Great. I still do not know that it will fit, but I will be pleased if it does. You misunderstood because I'm not as knowledgeable as you on this subject, obviously. But I love to learn and appreciate your feedback!
 
I like BG's idea, move the stove up stairs into the living area, install either a ceiling support box and lengths of class a pipe through the roof, or a through the wall kit and have the class a chimney outside, either or would be better than that thin wall concrete pipe thing you have there.
 
I like BG's idea, move the stove up stairs into the living area, install either a ceiling support box and lengths of class a pipe through the roof, or a through the wall kit and have the class a chimney outside, either or would be better than that thin wall concrete pipe thing you have there.

I am going to install a wood insert in my living room/kitchen area - I have a high ceiling in that room and a lot of windows. That room is tight, and I can vent through the current masonry chimney. Directly below this, the previous owner has a wood burner that vented through the same chimney structure, different vent. Unfortunately, that is at the other end of y ranch basement, and though only about 1000 sq feet down there, I wanted to finish the other end of the basement where I'll probably spend most of my time - I had hoped to have a stove right there.

I could add a stainless chimney against the opposite outside wall, and will trust your experience and avoid using the transite pipe. Thanks again to both of you!
 
Getting a stove set up safely is a bit of work, but in the end peace of mind and nice warmth makes it worth while. We're here to help when you need it.
 
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