Ashby-p ????

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joshb

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Oct 26, 2013
6
wi
I recently bought a new st. Croix ashby-p pellet stove and I cant get it to burn right. the glass turns dark brown and wont wipe off with water. I recently installed an oak thinking it wasn't getting enough air and it still isn't burning with a good flame. if I crack open the ash pan a bit then the flame burns more white and really fast.
Anyone else have this problem or could help me out that would be great

thanks
josh
 
Not getting any help from the dealer? Needs more air.
 
I would be suspicious of your exhaust system as well. Can you describe that?
 
about 11ft of 4" flex pipe ran straight up through mason chimney. the outside air kit is a 2" flex pipe about 4' out the back of the chimney. I cleaned the stove completely a few days ago with a brush and leaf blower.
 
Well you have several things you can try. First, make sure you put everything was put back the right way after cleaning like baffle plates, slide out bottom, burn pot, coal rake, check vacuum line and switch to make sure they are not obstructed. Make sure your damper settings are to spec as outlined in your manual. You could also try a different pellet brand to see if that changes anything.
 
First you must keep the ash pan tightly latched… the stove loses efficiency when it has a major air leak like that.

Your inlet damper should be open about the width of a pencil… you should install a sheet metal screw thru the housing so the valve stops on the screw so it will always be open the correct amount.

If you are running on one of the lower settings your stove will not burn without a lot of soot… run it on #2 or #3… a thermostat will help even out the temps in your house.

The door glass will get dirty… every new stove expects the glass to stay crystal clear but none do… it will stay cleaner on a higher heat setting but will still require you to clean it every few days if you want a pretty view of the fire. The sticky deposits on the glass indicate you have been running with the ash pan door open… been there.

You should also run your stove on #4 or #5 for 20 minutes EVERY DAY to help burn off any soot or creosote that may develop…

Who's your dealer?
 
I bought it from warm sensations in Kaukauna. Im not running it with the ash pan door open I just opened it a bit to see what the flame did. I also know that the glass will get dirty which I don't mind at all. my dad and father in law both have the Prescott and their glass only gets a light brown which can be wiped off with just water. mine gets real dark brown almost tary look and I need to use oven cleaner to get it off. im trying to get it to burn like my dads and only need water or just a paper towel to clean the glass. I also always run it on 3 and run it on 5 once a week for a day. I really like the stove and it works and heats very good im only trying to fix the glass color problem.
right now I have the damper all the way open so I don't have a lazy flame. if I close it any the flame is not fast so I think there might be some issue I cant figure out....
 
well I have the oak installed and have been running for a week or so. when I clean the glass I still need to use oven cleaner to get the glass clean. it is a dark carmel color and wont wipe off with water. does that mean I have too much air or not enough air. I think I might have to have a guy come take a look at the stove. I didn't want to do this but I cant figure this stove out.
 
Have you tried a different pellet yet?
 
I have tried a few different ones and currently im using uncle jeds from earth sense. they seem to have the best flame. every pellet had the same affect on the glass color. could it be that my stove doesn't run for long periods of time. it only runs for 15 min or so then kicks down to smart stat mode until the thermostat kicks it back in. I switched to #4 on my heat level to see if that helps so it burns hotter when running..
 
I have tried a few different ones and currently im using uncle jeds from earth sense. they seem to have the best flame. every pellet had the same affect on the glass color. could it be that my stove doesn't run for long periods of time. it only runs for 15 min or so then kicks down to smart stat mode until the thermostat kicks it back in. I switched to #4 on my heat level to see if that helps so it burns hotter when running..
I'm not familiar with that stove but it sounds like you're headed in the right direction. The manual and dealer should be your primary sources of adjustment info as there doesn't seem to be a lot of Ashby owners chiming in. A lot of your problems are likely due to the short burn times. In "smart stat" mode, does the stove shut off, or does it go into an idle burn? If it's the latter, you should be able to make adjustments so it's burning properly.
 
the smart stat mode allows it to run on #1 for 45 min or so and if it doesn't need heat it shuts off. I hope some ashby owners chime in so I can see what they did
 
I recently bought a new st. Croix ashby-p pellet stove and I cant get it to burn right. the glass turns dark brown and wont wipe off with water. I recently installed an oak thinking it wasn't getting enough air and it still isn't burning with a good flame. if I crack open the ash pan a bit then the flame burns more white and really fast.
Anyone else have this problem or could help me out that would be great

thanks
josh
What did you find?
 
This Oct I bought an ashby-p insert. Basic setup in an existing fireplace. I have a feeling I overpaid @3800 (prices tend to fluctuate during the season) I did find a web link that shows what st.croix prices are to dealers (bla bla don't want this post deleted) & I accounted for shipping and the time of year. ( Dealers have to make some profit too) But, I am not going to promote this expanding dealership in Massachusetts too much. Anyhow, I paid for the installation too. I was amazed in 1 hour, 2 guys were done & showing me how to interpret the flames. Paying for the install was worth not hearing myself invent bad words if I bought the wrong liner or missed a part. The installers also saved me $300 plus by telling me exactly how to repair my cracked chimney crown cap myself. HOWEVER, they DID NOT install an intake tube as recommended in the manual. Basically, intake is typical for many installs with intake coming from the house. These inserts are efficient, but I believe the install is not as efficient as it could be; It does heat my house fine on level 4 when temps are >25F. I will have to rent a core bit from home depot and drill out a hole in the back of my fireplace - not a hard task. With that said, I predicted the first year would be a learning experience. I bought my pellets from woodpellets.com ( clear fire pacific blend) - again because I wanted to be safe. In Massachusetts, My Ashby-P now burns well . If you are from anywere else, USA,"My insert Burns Good" - I am not from Mass ( it took about 30 bags to break in ).
 
My Views:
Apply for the permit yourself.
Mine cost 150 going through the install company, but the town charged $30! Some Clueless Townie from the install company told me all I needed to do was wait for something in the mail to tell me what to do. I got tired and called the town myself. I was told by the town," the permit has been applied for, and ready here for a week & is ready to be picked up & you just need to schedule an inspection". An inspection for an insert is a peace of cake all they looked for was flammable mantels that may be too close to the insert.( I want the inspectors job)
_If you pay for the install ask them how your chimney looks while they are installing, they will be so focused on the installation that they will probably give you good info. They don't like performing easy concrete mixing and "crown saver" applications.( easy money for most masons but any homeowner with youtube & testicular fortitude can perform and save $$)
-Buy a Mulch cart ( I recommend Harbor Freight $75.00) I was able to load 10 bags and easily pull them to my backyard basement where I stored 4.5 tons. I averaged moving 1 ton(2000lbs) per hour while using a good set of headphones/some red bull/ and focusing bad thoughts in a constructive way of a mother in law. Next year I will also use a simple ramp of wood covered by a slippery tarp. Stairs w/ 40lb bags do a number on anyone out of shape.
- Look at the St.Croix videos on proper flame adjustments. I forgot about the break in time and was getting frustrated. My insert now burns with damper lever set at the middle ( maybe a hair forward). ( again I don't have an intake tube Basically, intake is typical for many installs with intake coming from the house. ) It will burn for 3 days while slowly creating a film each day. It really gets dirty when running at levels 1 &2. I usually runt it at level 3 or 4. After 3 days, it looks dirty to me.Then I clean it. Some stray ashes/ambers blow up. A noticeable amount fly up whenever the auger drops pellets. I looked for the forked flames while adjusting the damper. I tried to balance the forked flames just enough away from the lazy flames while looking at the flying ambers. I don't have ambers flying all over the place, only when the pellets drop. I bought my pellets from woodpellets.com ( clear fire pacific blend) - again because I wanted to be safe. Next year I will look locally, but I don't have a big truck and like the driveway bulk delivery method.
- I did consult the manual and tweaked the auger feed to minimum and the fan to min ( read the manual) - I think that really depends on the pellets
 
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By the way.....painting a fireplace is the most efficient way to improve & open a room ( we wished we did it years ago)- use a brush and a good latex primer, I broke all the rules and painted it flat white ; it made the bricks look soft)
 
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