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Auger not working - Enviro EF3

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by Peltz, Dec 8, 2012.

  1. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Now about this: ":The flue has a cap with a kind of wire frame so the only thing that could fit down it is a bug"


    And is that metal mesh clean as in fully open. Lots of folks have been shut down due to crap on the vent termination screen.

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  2. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    Probes not touching reads 0.L, probes touching reads 0.000
  3. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    O.L is really OL, infinity on a digital meter, open circuit.
    Is the switch supposed to sense vacuum, or pressure. If pressure, and it's a vacuum switch, or vice versa, it's not going to do the job.
  4. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    The flue cap is not clogged. It is not really a wire mesh, you can fit a pencil or maybe your pinky through it, but it is too small for a bird or mouse.
  5. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    According to the owner's manual it is a vacuum switch.
  6. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Now where on the stove does the "vacuum line go to".

    I have hardware mesh in my vent termination you can stick a pencil through it but it still gets gummed up with crap from the exhaust and can and does toss a #2 vacuum error when that happens.

    Now that heat seeker has told us what the 0.L is namely open circuit and that 0.000 is closed circuit we might stand a chance of getting this thing running.
  7. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    If you mean the vacuum hose, there is a red hose that connects a barb on the vacuum switch to a barb on the stove in the "exhaust chamber" (my words). The "exhaust chamber" is right before where the exhaust/combustion blower is attached to the stove (facing front, away from flue). Front to back: burn area, exhaust chamber (with hose barb), blower, flue. I can blow on the hose and it is not obstructed. When I had the blower removed I could reach in the "chamber" and feel the air when I blew in the hose.
  8. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Did you clean the barb on the stove?
  9. heat seeker

    heat seeker Minister of Fire

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    Sounds like a vacuum sensor is needed.
  10. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    Stuck a needle through it. Not obstructed.
  11. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    I purchased a new vacuum sensor and it is different than the original. I suppose it is a replacement model. Anyway, when I attached it nothing changed with the stove operation. The original is a Honeywell and the replacement is a Cleveland Controls. The new one has only one hose barb, the original has two.
  12. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Is the hose going to the vacuum switch attached to the top port on the switch?
  13. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    Yes. Top port. The original switch is currently installed.
  14. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    Just climbed out on the roof and the flue cover is wide open. No obstructions
  15. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Now locate the Low limit sensor on the exhaust path (this is likely close to if not on the combustion blower cavity next to the combustion blower itself).

    Remove the wires from it and take a Ohm reading it should be 0.L if you have a lighter or candle remove the sensor from the stove and with the probes attached pass the flame under the end of the sensor, the reading should change to 0.000 once the temperature exceeds 140 on that sensor be careful you are playing with fire. Once this checks out put it back together as it was..

    This is the proof of fire system as well as how the convection blower gets turned on, once the priming charge has been delivered to the burn pot no more fuel will be delivered until this switch closes.

    ETA: Should be two brown wires going to it.
  16. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    Tested the 140° F sensor as described. At first it read 0.L then when removed and it next to a candle the meter read 0.000 ohms.
  17. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    OK, put it back the way it was and tell us what is currently jumper-ed on the stove?

    The only thing that I want jumper-ed at this time is the vacuum switch wires and the switch should be connected to the meter probes and read 0.L

    If it reads 0.L place a half handful of pellets in the burn pot and start the stove.

    Please make certain that the flue is connected and that once the combustion blower starts the meter goes to 0.000 .

    Pay attention also to the convection blower hopefully it will start up with the added pellets in the burn pot.
  18. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Gone to take care of the birds and to have a geezer nap.
  19. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    Did as you said. Had a nice flame in the burn area. The multimeter never flipped from 0.L to 0.000 on the vacuum switch. The convection blower is a separate control and did not turn on automatically, however I did turn it on manually. What now? Could it be the vacuum switch? The new one did not fix it. I wonder if the new one is not compatible. I also read that it is very rare for the vacuum switch to fail. Perplexed. Thanks for your help.
  20. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    If the vacuum switch had been connected the stove wouldn't have dropped a priming charge, you bypassed the vacuum switch so we still have a bit of a problem.

    Did the pellet flow ever start back up?




    I'm trying to see what on the stove is actually working and yes it is extremely rare for a vacuum switch to fail, they can and do but it is not the thing that normally happens.

    The normal causes of a vacuum switch not closing somewhat in order are: Ash or other obstruction in the works including the barb and vacuum line (hose), open doors or ash drawers, bad or failing gaskets, loose, damaged or pinched vacuum line (hose) a failed, or failing combustion blower.

    The instructions call for a second start sequence if there is still a flame when the stove starts shutdown if this shut down starts at the 15 minute mark after first starting the stove (this is the reason I had you place more pellets in the burn pot) evidently it is possible that your stove takes a couple of startups to get up to a run temperature.

    There is also a 120 degree snap disk on the stove that will shut the stove off and another that will place the convection blower in high speed to help reduce a chance of the stove over-firing and yet another that detects an over-fire condition (high limit switch).

    .








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  21. stovelark

    stovelark Minister of Fire

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    Ok guys- Enviro EF3 analog controls you turn dial a fire on, set it to desired heat hit the on button above the dial a fire
    if the vacuum has set (closed) the auger control block will turn auger at the rate that the dial a fire is set to (I always set it to 12 oclock then it comes on 4 secs off 6-7 secs. It will feed as long as vacuum is set. The convex blower control on top is a rheostat also, turn to 12 or 1 oclock leave alone, it comes on. The POF sensor in exhaust path (above combustion blower) actually shuts the blowers off automatically after you turn the dial a fire all the way left and click (off). The combustion blower runs at one speed, its on or off. The EF3 lets yiou adjust the burn air/fuel mixture by continuous adjustment of the dial a fire and the air shutter adjustment on the left side facing (black ball handle comes thru stove side). There is a second sw on inner exhaust path that cuts off the ignitor once it reaches ignition (high exh temps). If you bypass vacuum and auger turns, only one thing can be wrong- either blockage of the exhaust path (99 percent of the time the problem) or bad vac switch or wiring (rare). A test I like to do- with exhaust pipe off, put your hand over the vent exhaust- you should feel cool air coming in from outside, if you don't find out why. It sounded like your vac switch worked (closed) when you were running it open into a room (I too say NEVER do that). Another thing to eliminate put power to your auger motor and let it run one revolution time it it should take about one minute (1RPM Motor), and see if pellets fall normally. EF3's are pretty bullet proof- I'd say a dirty exhaust vent is likely the culprit. Remember on that stove the dial a fire and convection blower controls are separate manual start controls but operate automatically once the start button is activated. Hope this helped good luck

    Stovelark
    Enviro EF3 FS pellet
    Enviro Empress FPI AC pellet
    Enviro Kodiak 1700 FS wood
  22. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Thank you stovelark.
  23. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    I think I found success. I hooked all the new parts together and it worked. Previously l hooked one part at a time trying a process of elimination and it did not work. Anyway, the new dial-a-fire combined withe new vacuum switch and the old auger timing module got things going. So it looks like there were 2 bad parts. I still need to tidy up and give it an extended burn, but the initial tests are good. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks to everyone for all your help, particularly Smokey. I appreciate all of your time and effort.
  24. SmokeyTheBear

    SmokeyTheBear Minister of Fire

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    Good deal there Peltz.
  25. Peltz

    Peltz New Member

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    It has been pretty warm the last couple of days here in Maryland so I have not been burning the stove, but I have a good feeling that all the collective efforts have paid off. Thanks to all those who helped me work through my stove problems.

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