Ausroflamm Integra auger feed problems

[Jaxon]

Here's what been able to test so far. Both the air flow and auger test points are reading as they should. 5 V DC when turned counter clockwise and 0 V DC clockwise. The hall sensor reads a constant 0 and the combustion motor is on and spinning freely. What else should I test for? Does this mean I need a new combustion motor?

 

[Jaxon]

Jaxon, you have a very good stove. If all of the electronics test out ok, then the problem has to reside with other components from the stove. Joe, the man you sent the parts to is very knowledgeable and provides a very good service. If he says that they are testing out OK, then you are in fact ok in that regard. Problem #1 is eliminated, the mother board, air flow sensor and control pad are good. If you replaced the two switches for the stove and used factory recommended parts, then those are ok. If the auger bushing is not restricting the rotation of the auger shaft, then you have eliminated that.

Things to do:

1. A bad LT switch will give you these symptoms OR replacement of this switch with an aftermarket switch NOT rated for low voltage will do the same OR faulty connection from the terminal block to or on the switch
2. A bad air flow sensor will give you these symptoms. Make sure the air flow sensor is installed with the circuitry toward the outside of the stove. Make sure the the venting is not obstructed OR the air flow is obstructed within the stove (CLEAN IT!). IF you raker rods do not move up and down freely, the exhaust holes at the bottom of the rake may be filled with ash. Make sure the wiring to the air flow sensor is connected and seated properly as well as is connected to the proper in/out on the mother board.
3. A bad hall sensor on the combustion motor will give you these problems as the mother board cannot tell that the motor is actually turning or turning fast enough.
4. The combustion motor hall sensors ARE working but the motor isn't spinning freely OR the capicitor to start the motor is bad and the motor is in fact not moving OR there us an obstruction at the motor not allowing the motor to spin.

Diagrams to trouble shoot are included.

View attachment 74014View attachment 74015View attachment 74016View attachment 74017

 

[Jaxon]

So I guess with my multimeter readings on the hall sensor test point that I need to buy a new combustion blower.

 

[smwilliamson]

yup. or replace the sensor...not sure how to do that though...

 

[Jaxon]

I replaced the combustion motor yesterday and finally everything worked as it should. Thanks for all the help!

 

[zuluflyer]

Is the "air flow sensor" you mentioned the same as the vacuum switch most of us have on our stoves? If not, does the Integra have a vacuum switch?

If the switch doesn't see vacuum or low vacuum, the auger stops feeding pellets as a safety precaution. Usually caused by a plugged-up exhaust system, plugged-up tube leading from firebox to vacuum switch, or faulty switch.

I have tracked down, thanks to this forum, that my Austroflamm Integra air sensor is bad. Examining it, I do notice some slight brown 'scorch' marks on the little white bump of glue or whatever it is on one of the legs. BTW anyone know how these sensors function and if and electronics "hobbyist" could repair it? Anyway HERE IS MY QUESTION.....short of repairing, has anyone ever successfully 'Hotwired" around one of these?---I'm freezing and the part is backordered across the USA til next year. There are 4 wires, red, white, black, and green. Which colors get jumped??? I just need the auger to function until my part arrives. THANKS!

 

[heat seeker]

Welcome to the forum!

It's probably a generically available part, and bypassing it is strongly discouraged for more than a quick test. It's a safety device, and needs to be working.
Most vacuum switches just have two wires, I don't know why yours has four.

You might get better exposure if you start a new thread. Jaxon's problem has been solved, and it's his thread.

 

[zuluflyer]

Welcome to the forum!

It's probably a generically available part, and bypassing it is strongly discouraged for more than a quick test. It's a safety device, and needs to be working.
Most vacuum switches just have two wires, I don't know why yours has four.

You might get better exposure if you start a new thread. Jaxon's problem has been solved, and it's his thread.

Thank you heat seeker.....will do

 

[smwilliamson]

Seems you could order an air sensor from a Rika dealership...they use the same exact part.