Bad power solutions

[Mike Zee]

Hello all, I have a pleasant hearth pellet stove and recently have run into an issue.

We have a low voltage coming into our home (outlets between 100 and 110v) due to work being done on the power lines in our area. Our power provider has told us that because this falls within the legal tolerances, we need to just deal with it till they’re done (who knows how long)

As you know, our stove hates this, and is basically un-useable at these levels. The motors run so low and I’m afraid I’ll destroy it.

My question is: is there a solution to “clean” and stabilize my power? Is there a way to make the 120v perfect sine wave power that my poor girl wants, with the garbage power I’m being provided? A conditioner? Something?

I’m willing to spend/ invest in something, but I’m just not what the solution is.

 

[Mt Bob]

Hello all, I have a pleasant hearth pellet stove and recently have run into an issue.

We have a low voltage coming into our home (outlets between 100 and 110v) due to work being done on the power lines in our area. Our power provider has told us that because this falls within the legal tolerances, we need to just deal with it till they’re done (who knows how long)

As you know, our stove hates this, and is basically un-useable at these levels. The motors run so low and I’m afraid I’ll destroy it.

My question is: is there a solution to “clean” and stabilize my power? Is there a way to make the 120v perfect sine wave power that my poor girl wants, with the garbage power I’m being provided? A conditioner? Something?

I’m willing to spend/ invest in something, but I’m just not what the solution is.

A quality UPS can do it,and some are made for it, line and voltage conditioning and all. But they are not cheap. Here is link to one, and you can check their website.

120V 1.5kVA 900W Line-Interactive Sine Wave UPS, Tower, USB, DB9, 8 Outlets | Eaton

Corrects under- and overvoltages from 95V to 145V (120V) 8 5-15R outlets Monitoring of power conditions via PowerAlert software Front-panel LEDs indicate load, power, voltage and battery statuses 17.4 min. runtime at half load; 6.4 min. at full load

www.tripplite.com

 

[whit]

A sine wave UPS should do it. There are various qualities of those though. I'm not sure which your stove would require. Background reading: https://blog.tripplite.com/pure-sine-wave-vs-modified-sine-wave-explained.

On the less-expensive side for those devices, I've used this brand for both my Quad pellet stove, and computer equipment. It's handled outages fine and damaged nothing. But I've not tested it with undervoltages -- although it claims the ability to correct them:

Amazon product ASIN B00429N19W

 

[Mike Zee]

A quality UPS can do it,and some are made for it, line and voltage conditioning and all. But they are not cheap. Here is link to one, and you can check their website.

120V 1.5kVA 900W Line-Interactive Sine Wave UPS, Tower, USB, DB9, 8 Outlets | Eaton

Corrects under- and overvoltages from 95V to 145V (120V) 8 5-15R outlets Monitoring of power conditions via PowerAlert software Front-panel LEDs indicate load, power, voltage and battery statuses 17.4 min. runtime at half load; 6.4 min. at full load

www.tripplite.com

Awesome! Yes exactly! I’m happy with any price up to about 1k, so this seems super reasonable.

 

[Mike Zee]

A sine wave UPS should do it. There are various qualities of those though. I'm not sure which your stove would require. Background reading: https://blog.tripplite.com/pure-sine-wave-vs-modified-sine-wave-explained.

Oh thanks for the link! That’s good to know. I know I’ve heard “pure sine wave” thrown around a lot, but I never really understood the difference. Thanks!

 

[Mike Zee]

A quality UPS can do it,and some are made for it, line and voltage conditioning and all. But they are not cheap. Here is link to one, and you can check their website.

120V 1.5kVA 900W Line-Interactive Sine Wave UPS, Tower, USB, DB9, 8 Outlets | Eaton

Corrects under- and overvoltages from 95V to 145V (120V) 8 5-15R outlets Monitoring of power conditions via PowerAlert software Front-panel LEDs indicate load, power, voltage and battery statuses 17.4 min. runtime at half load; 6.4 min. at full load

www.tripplite.com

And also thanks so much for the quick reply. I really appreciate it 🙂

 

[Mt Bob]

And also thanks so much for the quick reply. I really appreciate it 🙂

NP. Your biggest thing will be shipping to Canada, they really rip you off up there. BE aware, "line interactive" that is what makes these expensive, unlike a $160 one.

 

[Mike Zee]

NP. Your biggest thing will be shipping to Canada, they really rip you off up there. BE aware, "line interactive" that is what makes these expensive, unlike a $160 one.

Gotcha! Thanks for the heads up, and thanks for the help.

 

[Oregun]

If this happened here I would connect one of my RV 12v batteries to my PSW 600 watt inverter and connect the stove to the inverter.
Then connect a 12 charger connected to the house 100-110v line and connect the charger lines to the RV battery to keep it charged.

 

[peakbagger]

Low line voltage can really chew up a lot of conventional home equipment although modern switching power supplies are usually built to handle it. There are devices called autotransformers that can boost incoming voltage. BTW most electric equipment is supposed to be designed for plus or minus 10% variation in incoming voltage and utility standards usually are limited to plus or minus 10% at their worst. The issue is that on rurual systems with line losses the voltage can be on the low side normally so if they are messing with the ditribution system it could drop even lower. The utility can boost the power by just using a different tap on their transformers. On many newer systems this is automatic with an automated tap changer but in older systems it may require a crew with a bucket truck to swap taps. Utilities usually are arrogant and unless a customer has a calibrated power meter on the incoming line, they will claim it is the household wiring or equipment. In many US states with regulated utilities, if you can prove the power is out of spec, threatening to contact the state body that regulates power utilities usually gets a lot of attention from the utility.

 

[Mike Zee]

Low line voltage can really chew up a lot of conventional home equipment although modern switching power supplies are usually built to handle it. There are devices called autotransformers that can boost incoming voltage. BTW most electric equipment is supposed to be designed for plus or minus 10% variation in incoming voltage and utility standards usually are limited to plus or minus 10% at their worst. The issue is that on rurual systems with line losses the voltage can be on the low side normally so if they are messing with the ditribution system it could drop even lower. The utility can boost the power by just using a different tap on their transformers. On many newer systems this is automatic with an automated tap changer but in older systems it may require a crew with a bucket truck to swap taps. Utilities usually are arrogant and unless a customer has a calibrated power meter on the incoming line, they will claim it is the household wiring or equipment. In many US states with regulated utilities, if you can prove the power is out of spec, threatening to contact the state body that regulates power utilities usually gets a lot of attention from the utility.

Yes, that’s the impression that I got as well. When the local utility tech came out to address the complaints (it’s an entire neighborhood) they basically told us that as long as they deliver above 225 at the mains (which is exactly what it is) they’re not obligated to change it. I was shocked. I’m definitely going to escalate my complaint. My area is about 300 people they have done this too. It’s time to make some noise. Thanks for the info.

 

[Mike Zee]

If this happened here I would connect one of my RV 12v batteries to my PSW 600 watt inverter and connect the stove to the inverter.
Then connect a 12 charger connected to the house 100-110v line and connect the charger lines to the RV battery to keep it charged.

I did consider doing it this way too! Thanks for the tip.

 

[zrock]

On a side note make sure you check with your insurance company and make sure you are covered incase anything expensive gets fried. Also get everyone to go to social media as much as i hate to say it, but the power of social media gets results and usually fast

 

[Mike Zee]

On a side note make sure you check with your insurance company and make sure you are covered incase anything expensive gets fried. Also get everyone to go to social media as much as i hate to say it, but the power of social media gets results and usually fast

Good call. That’s a great idea. Thanks

 

[gfreek]

Interesting, let us know how you make out

 

[Mt Bob]

The US and Canada have been standardizing to 120,for some years, even remote rural, Standard operating condition voltage range is 110 to 125. But, 108 can be acceptable(legally) in some areas, and even a bit lower if they are doing repairs/upgrades. The problem with some pellet stoves (most actually,I believe) is the control boards and modules are built to low specifications, not having the better protections,safety and functions of ,say newer home appliances. Travis probably has the best, if we judge by number of control failures, theirs is very low. Anyway,that was just some info.

 

[Mike Zee]

Hello again everyone and thanks for all the help. What a cool community.

So as of this morning my power was normal again! 120 out of the wall instead of the 103-110 I was getting all day yesterday.

I’m hoping this isn’t just the work crew taking the weekend off, but I guess I’ll find out Monday.

I’ve ordered the Line active UPS and am hoping it’ll help if this happens again, or to be able to use the stove with my generator in case of outages.

The house is warm, we’re getting a decent amount of snow, and all is well…. For now?

Thanks again for all the help.