Best way to store a saw

[Freeheat]

Need some help . Have run my Chain saw over the winter and the way it looks I wont get to use it for 2-3 months. Whats the best way to store the saw

1) run the fuel out and leave it empty

2) stabil the gas and let it sit

 

[HittinSteel]

I run my saws dry......don't want ethanol laced fuel (stabilized or not) sitting in my fuel lines.

 

[zzr7ky]

I am a run 'em dry guy. When I was in the fuel retated end of the automotive world I was pretty suprised to find out what was in the various fuel blends. My point is since I really don't know what is in the 'gas', so I don't leave it in my saw for weeks/months.

 

[pen]

I cut my firewood in a group of 5 guys. All five of us use husky's and all 5 are different models. The oldest about 8 years old on up to new last season. All but 1 of our saws leak bar oil while being stored (and it's not the newest which stays dry). As such, I'd suggest storing it w/ a rubber floor mat under it.

I also run mine dry.

pen

 

[kettensäge]

I dump out the gas and put it on the shelf. Mine sit up to 6 mos. at a time. Used to run then dry but read where as they run out of fuel they also run out of oil and run leaner and leaner until the point of stalling. I would rather risk leaving the carb a little wet then run a saw even for a few moments without adequete lubrication or in an extremely lean state even if at idle. I put a new fuel line on the 041 back in 2002, it was 20 yrs. old at that point, no problems up to now. Fuel lines are also cheaper, quicker and easier than pistons rings and jugs.
I may be taking it a little too far but thats what I'm comfortable with. Never have restart issues with either of my Stihl's. Same for the weedwacker and blower, (both Stihl) they all use the same mix.

I wouldn't suggest you let it run dry while cutting, and I don't think thats' what is being suggested here but wanted to be sure you knew that.

I use stihl brand 2 stroke oil and had mix take up to a year to use up in a sealed gas can without problems, e-10 or not. I think there are fuel stabilizers added to the better 2 stroke oils that help you to store ethanol blend gas mixes a little longer than commonly believed.

Your results may vary.

 

[KarlP]

If you KNOW you are going to be using it within three months, I'd say there is no reason to dump. However, its safer to dump just incase three months becomes a year.

 

[smokinj]

gas dry oil full!

 

[oilstinks]

Dump the gas run the carb dry. A simple easy step to keep from putting on new fuel lines and rebuilding the carb.

 

[mecreature]

I put stabil in all my gas cans.. 2 and 4 stoke... Stabil-marine..
I am also in the camp of not running a 2 stroke engine dry.
If it is going to sit a really long time I put a shot of storage seal in the plug hole.

 

[Danno77]

Don't listen to jay. he doesn't ever put his saws into hibernation.

seriously, though. I just leave the gas sitting in mine. I've been getting a 5gal gas jug and making my concoction of stabil+seafoam+and marvel (that's new in the last year) and then use that gas for all my engines. for the saws it gets poured into the proper containers for mix, for the mowers it gets poured straight out of the 5gal.

I used to leave ethanol in the saw and the trimmers, then I got a new trimmer and started running it dry. Now that I found some ethanol free fuel, I leave the fuel in them. Only lines I ever had to change were on the cheap weed eater and the cheap push mower. The 028 has never had new lines, and neither has the rider. maybe I'm just lucky.

I always figured that the mix in the lines had enough oil to help keep them from drying out. probably just enough to balance out the damage from the ethanol. I'm hopeful that the ethanol free fuel will keep things in tip-top shape from here on out. changing fuel lines isn't super hard, but it's one less thing I'd like to be doing.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Unless I don't figure on using the saw for a couple of years I just put the saw in the case and forget about it. I've done this for many years without problems. However, if the gas had ethanol, I would then definitely drain it and then start it to make sure it were empty. Then I'd pull the plug and put a drop or two of oil in and give it a short crank. Then store it in the case.

 

[kettensäge]

Are husky's more suseptible to carb and fuel line problems than stihls?
I don't have problems and don't own a husky.

 

[Highbeam]

Read the manual if you're worried. My Stihl's manual has a pretty big section about how to store the saw.

I think people worry way way too much about gas getting old and going bad. Some folks will throw away a sealed can of gas that sits on the shelf for a month, ridiculous! I try to take a conservative approach. All of the gas I buy (except the wife's car gas) gets a full dose of sta-bil. I then mix it with 2-stroke oil for the 2 strokes or just use it for the four strokes. No running anything dry. Never had an issue.

I have rebuilt a huge holley four barrel carb from a hay truck that had gas varnish up in it. The stench was memorable, the mess was obvious. Old carbs are well vented to allow the light vapors to evaporate and condense the heavy stuff into gunk. It takes YEARS.

I blow the saw off, make sure it is dry, has a fresh chain, and lock it up in a hard plastic stihl carrying case and stash it under a work bench until I need it again.

 

[Freeheat]

Well I ran the fuel out and put it on the shelf , hope I get to use it sometime soon but not looking that way

 

[oldspark]

They say it is best not to run the motor dry 2 stroke or 4, best to put an additive in the gas and run it for a bit to get it into the system. A lot of the oils already have additive in them correct? I have a saw that is over 30 years old and have just parked it in winter and never a problem, always starts with 5 pulls or less. Used the stihl oil all the time and am now using the ultra stihl oil.

 

[Exmasonite]

gas dry oil full!

Huh... i thought jay's response would be "Best way to 'store' a saw is at full throttle buried in log or strapped into the alaska mill". I wasn't sure his saws got a chance to come up for air!

 

[smokinj]

gas dry oil full!

Huh... i thought jay's response would be "Best way to 'store' a saw is at full throttle buried in log or strapped into the alaska mill". I wasn't sure his saws got a chance to come up for air!

Only when there out of gas! Oh I mean when MMAUL can is empty....lol 84 oz's yesterday one board!

 

[Battenkiller]

... 84 oz's yesterday one board!

It's time, SJ:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Products/ManualSawmills/LT15PortableSawmill.aspx

 

[CTYank]

What's worked for me:
Mix is good quality e10 regular and 50:1 oil.
If it's been run dry, it gets mix at next use. If it's not dry, that's fine.

Saws are "stored" (awaiting work at any time) indoors where moisture and temp are stable.

PVC fuel lines s##k, as do the accountants that encourage nickel/diming. Fail dry or wet.

 

[smokinj]

... 84 oz's yesterday one board!

It's time, SJ:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Products/ManualSawmills/LT15PortableSawmill.aspx

Try putting a big log in there. Front end loader maybe, but once that mill pucks on my logs they will be very wavy. Just take the good with the bad. Theses band mills are what you need to compete with wally-worlds, and I am smart enough not to compete there.lol I am running a very low budget mill and looking for hardwoods over the 22 inch mark. Nails are not an issue.
lol see what a band miller will tell you. Not knocking band mills just not what I run into.

 

[Thistle]

... 84 oz's yesterday one board!

It's time, SJ:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Products/ManualSawmills/LT15PortableSawmill.aspx

Try putting a big log in there. Front end loader maybe, but once that mill pucks on my logs they will be very wavy. Just take the good with the bad. Theses band mills are what you need to compete with wally-worlds, and I am smart enough not to compete there.lol I am running a very low budget mill and looking for hardwoods over the 22 inch mark. Nails are not an issue.
lol see what a band miller will tell you. Not knocking band mills just not what I run into.

Right on. While I've dreamed about getting a LT40 with hydraulics package or a similar setup sometime,it'd cost me around 30K at least,since I dont have a tractor to move the big logs.With the Alaskan,the whole shebang is less than 150 lbs including the flat & true 2 x 12 guide plank with 2" angle irons the full length underneath.Its much easier to bring the mill to the log,especially when its in someone's tight city backyard or alley way.Pack the sucker in with 2 trips,carry out the planks & slabs later.Rake up the sawdust for garden mulch if they dont want it for themselves.

 

[smokinj]

... 84 oz's yesterday one board!

It's time, SJ:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Products/ManualSawmills/LT15PortableSawmill.aspx

Try putting a big log in there. Front end loader maybe, but once that mill pucks on my logs they will be very wavy. Just take the good with the bad. Theses band mills are what you need to compete with wally-worlds, and I am smart enough not to compete there.lol I am running a very low budget mill and looking for hardwoods over the 22 inch mark. Nails are not an issue.
lol see what a band miller will tell you. Not knocking band mills just not what I run into.

Right on. While I've dreamed about getting a LT40 with hydraulics package or a similar setup sometime,it'd cost me around 30K at least,since I dont have a tractor to move the big logs.With the Alaskan,the whole shebang is less than 150 lbs including the flat & true 2 x 12 guide plank with 2" angle irons the full length underneath.Its much easier to bring the mill to the log,especially when its in someone's tight city backyard or alley way.Pack the sucker in with 2 trips,carry out the planks & slabs later.Rake up the sawdust for garden mulch if they dont want it for themselves.

Wow you are hi-tech I have a fresh 2x8 treated and if its longer than 8 I just move it part way through..lol Rake whats that? lol The whole milling thing come about cutting firewood so I want to keep it that simple. High dollar wood has come off it and payed for it self after aalot of hard work. Just a full circle thing for me and the mill was just the last part not to waist anything.

 

[Thistle]

... 84 oz's yesterday one board!

It's time, SJ:

http://www.woodmizer.com/us/Products/ManualSawmills/LT15PortableSawmill.aspx

Try putting a big log in there. Front end loader maybe, but once that mill pucks on my logs they will be very wavy. Just take the good with the bad. Theses band mills are what you need to compete with wally-worlds, and I am smart enough not to compete there.lol I am running a very low budget mill and looking for hardwoods over the 22 inch mark. Nails are not an issue.
lol see what a band miller will tell you. Not knocking band mills just not what I run into.

Right on. While I've dreamed about getting a LT40 with hydraulics package or a similar setup sometime,it'd cost me around 30K at least,since I dont have a tractor to move the big logs.With the Alaskan,the whole shebang is less than 150 lbs including the flat & true 2 x 12 guide plank with 2" angle irons the full length underneath.Its much easier to bring the mill to the log,especially when its in someone's tight city backyard or alley way.Pack the sucker in with 2 trips,carry out the planks & slabs later.Rake up the sawdust for garden mulch if they dont want it for themselves.

Wow you are hi-tech I have a fresh 2x8 treated and if its longer than 8 I just move it part way through..lol Rake whats that? lol The whole milling thing come about cutting firewood so I want to keep it that simple. High dollar wood has come off it and payed for it self after aalot of hard work. Just a full circle thing for me and the mill was just the last part not to waist anything.

I hear ya. Bought the Alaskan in late 1992 from some now- closed mail order company in MA. $140 including UPS to my house.2nd log I milled it'd paid me back,plus I got 7 loads of fuel from the tops & branches.LOL its no big deal really.2 x 12 doug fir 7ft long,was 9ft originally,I rarely use any lumber over 6ft long (old scaffold plank grabbed from a jobsite dumpster years ago) The angle iron was found stuff too,traded an Ironworker a case of Bud for looking through his scrap pile one slow afternoon It depends on where I am,when I mill stuff in my own backyard or at parent's acreage,I dont worry about getting the area super-clean,but some people are fussy.Nice to keep on their good side,I've had people call me back with more free wood or a paying job from a friend or relative.

 

[firefighterjake]

Never had any real issues with the ethanol in the fuel with my saw since I often forget to put anything into my fuel before Winter hits and I stop cutting wood . . . although typically I run my saw until it's empty or pretty darn close to it . . . that said, I don't worry too much about the gas . . . but if I was a little more worried (or at least thought ahead) I would put some fuel stablizer in the tank . . . I put a ounce or so in to my two-stroke sled when I shut 'er down in the Spring.

 

[wendell]

Only use 91 non-ethanol and if I know the saw is going to sit for more than a couple weeks, I will drain the tank but not run it dry. Extra gas goes to my blower, trimmer or snowblower depending on the season. I only buy 1 gallon at a time so I know the gas will never be more than a month old.